Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

I have an '04 CTT with 128,000 mi and I am ready to replace my front lower control arms. I was wondering if anyone knows if I will need to pull the axles from the front transfer case? I didn't see a DIY on this so am really in the dark. Should I take pictures when I do mine?

Are there any other tips/tricks to replacing lower control arms? Thanks!!

Tim in Ft Worth

Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

thanks so much guys for the info and link. I was told by my local alignment/mechanic shop he would need $500 just for labor so I was looking for reasons it would cost that much to r/r 3 bolts and a ball joint nut. He must have thought the axles would have to come out. But great news! Thanks again!


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the job done and the only trouble we (yes, I had a lot of help from my mechanic/neighbor) had was getting the top bolt out of the end link. I forgot to mention I was advised to replace those as well and they are not expensive. It took some repositioning of the axle and hub assy to get the bolt out but we eventually got it. Looking at the old arm showed the damage: the rubber was torn out of the rear chassis bushing. I did index the cam washers but that assumes the bushings were not damaged the last time I had the alignment done. So I'm off to the alignment shop to make sure it's correct. They don't charge me unless it needs to be corrected anyhow. Thanks again for all the support!

Tim in Ft Worth

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.