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valley996

996 was running after engine reinstall now won't run

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I just recently reinstalled my motor in my 99 996 tiptronic after a new IMS, RMS and torque converter. After I had everything installed the car started ran a little rough then smoothed out. There was some white smoke on start up. I started it probably 5 times and ran it no longer than 5 minutes each time. A couple days later I went to start it and all I would hear is a loud click (which I assume is the starter engaging the flywheel). I thought maybe I had a bad starter. I replaced it today and it is doing the same thing. I charged my battery and it shows on my intrument panel that it is around 13 volts. Why won't the starter turn the flywheel.

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This happened to me a while back when I dropped my engine. I replaced the battery, then the starter, still had the problem. Then I removed the ground strap, cleaned the connection surfaces and the reinstalled the ground strap, problem was gone and never returned.

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I will check the ground strap and see if I can turn the motor by hand. The last time I started it there were no strange noises, just some smoke. I appreciate all the suggestions. I am open to any ideas. It appears the starter is engaging but just won't turn the motor. Strange how it was running then the next day I went to start it and only the sounding click of the starter. I hooked it up to my Duremetric and the only code I had was 662 - PCM. Would this have anything to do with it?

Alright I turned the motor by hand, so good news there. I'm going to unhook the battery and take it to be tested.

Edited by valley996

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Good to hear it turned manually, most likely an electrical issue then.

There is just one main ground strap from engine to body. I like to take wire wheel to cable mounting surfaces and cable ends then reinstall and cover with some sort of protectant.

There are also several ground points on the engine for small wires and electronics.

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I took my battery to get it tested. Showed 12.86 volts. I will check the main ground strap next. I guess if that's not it I will take the manifold off and check all the wiring harness connections. Crazy how it was running then next time I tried then all I had was a click. Would the code 662 PCM have anything to do with it?

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Battery voltage is not the only indication of it's health (in fact its not a very good indicator).

It's ability to sustain voltage and provide amps while under load is the more accurate measure. Some smart chargers at around $100 have this capability now, otherwise, you can put a large load on it manually, then observe amp draw with an ammeter.

Otherwise you can take it to a parts store and they can use their sophisticated meters to tell you this.

You should also measure the ability of the generator and regulator to provide consistent and appropriate voltage while under load.

Any codes (except for perhaps very serious ones accompanied by mechanical issues) experienced under a low battery or low voltage situation should be taken with a grain of salt, until the low battery situation is resolved. One resolved, codes cleared, then checked again.

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I don't understand why you don't try to jump start it with the jump start connections in the engine compartment. The loud click you hear is the starter solenoid engaging the starter motor, but it doesn't have enough amps (juice) to turn over. So far I think everyone has given good advice on the ground connections and so on. If you can jump it and it turns over and starts, then you have a weak battery, bad connections either positive or negative somewhere, or some reason the starter isn't getting full amperage to turn over. I would see if you can jump start it, and if you can, and you have check/cleaned the other positive/negative connections, then replace the battery and have the alternator/voltage regulator checked for proper output. If it doesn't start, i.e., the starter doesn't engage, you may have gotten a bad starter motor with a bad solenoid.

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Okay I will try jump starting it. Also, I should have been a little clearer. I took the battery to Advance for the check. It gave the voltage and said the battery was good. I really appreciate all the help. I'll let you know how the jump goes.

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Just tried jump starting it. It just clicked the starter just like with switch. I just bench tested my old starter. It came out quickly and spun. Battery good, starter apparently good, connections on battery clean. I did notice when I put the starter in that the plastic shield covering the heavy gauge wire was pushed back exposing about an inch of copper wire. Could this be my problem? I should have addressed this when i was doing it. I'll clean my engine ground strap in the mean time. Thanks for all the advice.

Edited by valley996

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First rule of mechanics - also go back to the last thing you did. With the jump and the starter motor not spinning even with a direct jump says to me something is wrong with the starter/solenoid. Unfortunately you should pull the starter again and have it checked, perhaps having the solenoid replaced or going back to where you purchased it for an exchange. I do hope that you checked and cleaned the negative ground wire from the engine to frame, up under the right rear tire. Easy enough to make sure that is free of corrosion and has a good connection. Then, if a jump doesn't work, IMO the starter/solenoid is bad.

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I want to thank everyone. This time I took the ground strap off completely and the scrubbed it with a wire brush. Reconnected and It started right up. Went for first test drive, ran great but have a couple coolant leaks. Hopefully just need to tighten the clamps some more. Thanks so much everyone.

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