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Hey all,Well, while driving home from work today MY04S displayed a message "Electric Load Shut Off". Here's the thing I had all kinds of screwy messages a few months back and my battery under the front seat was bad and replaced it with a new. Haven't tried pulling any codes but could it be a bad battery or the battery in back? Is there a way to do a load test without having to take the battery out? I hope its not the alternator...I am going to assume its the liquid cooled one.... Thoughts?
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UpdatePulled both batteries and went to AutoZone to get them tested. The newly replaced front seat battery (Aug this year) tested good but critically low, the subwoofer battery tested good with a good charge. I am trickle charging the seat battery now.
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Update #2
Charged the battery, cleared all codes to be safe, started car and used my multi-meter from the battery terminals and only pulling 12.4volts. I am going to assume the alternator. Anyone change theirs?
Loren do you happen to have the procedure to change the Alternator? My generic manual only refers to "see 99 20"
Edited by working4it
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It sounds like you may have a problem with the "Vehicle Electrical System" VES module. These are pretty common to fail on these cars and cause things like this to happen. They are what control all electrical loads in the system. If you scan all the other modules for fault codes look for fault codes indicating power changes or power loss. Also has any other strange power problems occurred? Things like certain lights brake lights or turns signals not working, or radio shutting off at odd times. Even complete engine shutdown at times. These are all symptoms of the VES module.

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I am also curious about the VES module as I am getting some weird electrical issues. Does anyone have a part number. Also in regards to the second battery, I have a 04 turbo with a subwoofer in the back. I am assuming that the subwoofer takes the place of the second battery, but I saw someone mention something about a second battery under the subwoofer?

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The VES module controls all power consumers in the vehicle. It controls things like lights and power supply to accessories like the radio. If you would like to research it a bit more you may find more information related to Touareg's as they use a variant of the same module. In VW they refer to the module as the J519 module. So if you do a search on VW J519 you will probably find a lot more info about it. If you suspect that this makes sense for the problem you are having, and have a diagnostic tool that can perform control module coding like the Porsche factory tool or Durametric, I could loan you the module for testing. There are two different versions depending on the year you have, and I have both on hand. Before installing the new module it is important to connect to the current module and write down the current coding value. This way you can enter the same value when coding the new module and not have to look at each coding option and build the coding value needed.

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Doesn't sound like the alternator as your rear battery is being charged.

Check your main battery ground lead circuit at both ends.

Is it clean and torqued correctly at the grounding point at the chassis and at the main battery terminal?

Checking the charge voltage at the rear battery terminals with engine on would be good as well.

Edited by bigbuzuki
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Update

After clearing the codes, charging, checking the batter connections, i decided to drive it to work. About half way to work the volt meter dial jumped to 13.5. On the way home it was down to about 11.8 so something is going on. Plugged in the durametric and these codes appeared.

Vehicle Electrical System

Current Fault Codes
70: Starter battery voltage (second battery) - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 668: Vehicle voltage terminal 30 - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 907: Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module - No additional fault status available, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light 1320: Air-conditioning system regulator control module - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 1299: Gateway - Please read out fault memory, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 2196: Terminal 30 fuse for vehicle electrical system control module - Upper limit value exceeded, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light
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Can you use your diagnostic tool to scan the other modules in the car and post the results. Just run a "Short Test" from the functions menu or the toolbar. Usually with VES the other modules other then the VES are more telling then the VES itself.

I am starting to think more that it is the Alternator. But it is still possible that it is the VES module. I can lend you one of my modules and you can use Durametric to code it to your car to see if it fixes the problem. If it does you can just buy me a replacement or send mine back to me.

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Update

Replaced both batteries, checked all connections and still not kicking out any voltage. Just replaced the liquid cooled alternator. Major pain in the a$$. On top of that its not working yet because I broke two pieces. The oil sending sensor and a breather T at the top. See pictures

post-62329-0-32853900-1357422128.jpg

post-62329-0-14379100-1357422142.jpg

post-62329-0-06425300-1357422155.jpg

post-62329-0-16570600-1357422170.jpg

post-62329-0-51412600-1357422183.jpg

  • Upvote 1
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Procedure:

Disconnect Both batter cables (negative)

Remove Right wheel

Remove Right wheel housing liner

Remove undercarage covers

Remove air cleaner houseing/tubing

Remove Air cleaner box

Remove Drive Belt

Remove ALternator/Generator impact bracket (3 bolts)

Clamp off coolant inlet/outlet

Unscrew ground lead

Unhindge fastening clips

Unscrew coolant lines (star bit) 1 screw on each outlet/inlet. Pull plastic coolant plugs out. Making sure you have the O rings

Remove Alternator protective cap

Unplug connector plug

Unbolt 3 bolts holding alternator 2 side 1 on top

Spend 45 minutes trying to work its way out the side wheel well through the opening from the air cleaner box. You onl have an extra MM of clearence.

Reverse.......

Edited by working4it
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Well, finally had some time to put everything back on, replace the vent line and oil pressure sensor. Started right up and is now putting out 13.8 volts. Took the old alternator to AutoZone and bench tested it and it wouldn't put out any volts. Additionally, I checked the codes with the durametric and have a couple of weird codes. I cleared them and will drive around for a bit and re check. My local dealer quoted 7 hours of labor plus $899 for the alternator. Its definitely a pain but well worth it.

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Well, the 2004 cs has the same symptoms..swapped out the bad battery under the drivers seat a week back.. and a few days back, engine stalls after 60 secs. Have brake alarm on now.. wondering if switch at pedal, bad alternator?, or the VME ..cjecked fuses, unfortunately my durametric is not able to connect after i spent 2 hours on the phone and installed the 6.17 s/w on 2 laptops.. Anyone oin the bay area who can help..

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When it runs, hook up a multi-meter at the battery jump points in the engine bay and read out the volts. Anything under 12.5 is most likely the alternator or a control module. Are getting the same error codes? My car would run until the battery would die down, you old actually see the volts drop as the battery drained. With the duramtric I had an issue with usb driver but after reinstalling that it worked. Pm me and I will send you the shop procedure to change the alternator.

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  • 2 weeks later...

With my '06 CTTS I can never get Durametric to scan the Vehicle Electrical System. The program will lock up every time. I have on of the newer cables and use the latest Durametric software. It will Scan every other module except the VES?

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working4it, that's some hard core job. congrats!

when i did the timing chain replacement and saw the alternator, I was like "hope I will never have to change that" cuz it is so tight down there!

do you think the it will be different on CTT? I am not sure if the pass. side turbo will be in the way.

also did you change the timing chain tensioner? I think it is right above the alternator and only $70 bucks or so.

Edited by royxaxa
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No, I wish I would have though...was so focused on the alternator. I had a coolant leak after a few days a found the plastic T(coolant return line out of alternator) had a crack. Of course you can't just order the T had to order the whole coolant hose (948-106-050 plus the neck 948-106-561). Another pain in the a$$.

post-62329-0-16401400-1359767282_thumb.j

Edited by working4it
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Does anyone have answers to below question?

With my '06 CTTS I can never get Durametric to scan the Vehicle Electrical System. The program will lock up every time. I have on of the newer cables and use the latest Durametric software. It will Scan every other module except the VES?

Edited by ciaka
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working4it

i had to replace the same T pipe with the hoses when I replaced the timing chain.

the small outlet to the alternator was snapped.

I guess after years of toasting near the engine, eventually all the plastic plumbings will fail. It is just a matter of time.

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Does anyone have answers to below question?

With my '06 CTTS I can never get Durametric to scan the Vehicle Electrical System. The program will lock up every time. I have on of the newer cables and use the latest Durametric software. It will Scan every other module except the VES?

probably the best way to find out is to contact Durametric

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  • 3 years later...

I also have had to "Electric Load Light Off' appear on dash. After digging into as much forum troubleshooting as possible I too did the alternator RE&RE. I had the alternator rebuilt locally (they replaced slip rings and upgraded bearing). All was good for a while then the same light would intermittently return and disappear and after a month the same light came on followed by air suspension and shutdown. Towed it home and replaced battery with new and all seemed fine. 5 days later 'Elec load light' returned for about 30 min then went off by the time I got home. Volts at jumper posts <12V @ idle and ~12.5+V @ 2Krpm. I haven't checked amps yet but I'm wondering if there is a way to better diagnose the VES? Supposedly the rebuilt Alt benched good as new according to shop. have had no elec issues with CTT prior to Alt piling up.

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