Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Why is my CTT so hard to start?


Recommended Posts

Man I'm starting to wince every time I start the car. I do know my starter is going out because it's squealing, and I can easily replace it. What still concerns me is the drop in RPMs when the car first starts.....it's like the car is going to shake apart for a few seconds then smooths out. Drives me insane. Idle has been on and off slightly rough at the end of 2012. I've replaced all the coils with latest and greatest. Apart from the starter slowly dying am I looking at fuel filter/pump here? Anybody know an awesome indy mech in Dallas? Autoscope, RUF, etc......I want a Porsche only guy/gal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ummm... the starter squealing can also be a sign of a slow start, and the automatic start circuit not detecting the engine running (the low RPM condition you mention) and not un-powering the starter. This symptom was what clued me into the starting problem (caused by loss of residual fuel pressure) in my '06. There is a thread going on about the same sort of thing right at the moment - and yes - you may be looking at a fuel system problem, NOT a starter problem.

FWIW - I have never experienced a squeal from the starter once the fuel pressure problem was fixed. It's worked flawlessly.

BTW - be helpful to know what year/model we're looking at.. perhaps adding it to your SIG might make that a bunch easier.

Edited by deilenberger
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry Don 'tis an 04 CTT. My mech tested pressure and it was fine. I'm wondering if it is the fuel filter or check valve or pump itself. Not sure how to diagnose without getting bent the hell over at Porsche. I'm keeping his car so I want it fixed. My first son is due to arrive 1-19 so I'm a little gun shy about the dealer.

Edited by ALEV8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry Don 'tis an 04 CTT. My mech tested pressure and it was fine. I'm wondering if it is the fuel filter or check valve or pump itself. Not sure how to diagnose without getting bent the hell over at Porsche. I'm keeping his car so I want it fixed. My first son is due to arrive 1-19 so I'm a little gun shy about the dealer.

Did the mechanic do a retained pressure test? IE - when the engine is shut off the fuel rail should maintain some minimum pressure for XX minutes minimum. I could look those up for you, but I believe it was 2-Bar (about 30PSI) and running pressure is 3-Bar (~45 PSI). I also seem to recall the specification was 10 or 20 minutes. Usually when a check valve fails it will immediately depressurize when the engine is shut off, and eventually the fuel drains back to the tank from the fuel rail. That means the pumps have to re-pressurize and fill the fuel rail before it will kick off at normal idle RPM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.