Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

I am experiencing a starter delay with my 2003 Boxster S 6 speed. Key turns normally from O through start. Emergency brake is on, clutch is depressed, and shifter is in neutral. Battery is new. All my idiot lights come on. Sometimes it will start immediately as normal. Other times have to turn key to off position then try again. Sometimes have to hold switch in start postion 10-15 seconds. Car will always start but sometimes takes as many as 5 trys. I have replaced the electical portion of the ignition switch and continue to have the same problem. Any ideas

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Clutch microswitch??

Maybe zip tie your micro switch (so it's fully depressed), and by-pass it. If this improve, then you know the switch needs to be replaced.

Edited by White987S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does it seem like it is trying to crank or does it just sit there and lights flicker and stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It just sits there. All lights come on same as turning key to Aux position but when turn further to start engine there is a delay which sometimes is only a second or two. No flashing lights. Sometimes the delay is 10 seconds or more and if it doesn't start at this point I start over. Remove the key, put the key back in ignition, check emergency brake on, depress clutch all the way then turn key again. As it goes through aux position all warning lights come on and continue turning key to start position then it might start immediately or it delay's again and might start after a few seconds or maybe not and then repeat again after 10-15 seconds. Sometimes I go through this procedure 4-5 times before it starts but it always eventually starts. Everything else works fine in the car. It's just this inconsistant delay. Also, I purchased this car second hand and it only came with one key so I don't have a second one to try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To White987S,

I'm not very bright when it comes to electrical stuff. OK, I know how to zip tie the clutch micro Switch and I assume that in order to bypass the switch I would just disconnect the two wires to the switch and runner a jumper between them. Is this correct??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To White987S,

I'm not very bright when it comes to electrical stuff. OK, I know how to zip tie the clutch micro Switch and I assume that in order to bypass the switch I would just disconnect the two wires to the switch and runner a jumper between them. Is this correct??

Not sure, Otto. Sounds right. I suspect the micro switch is failing, so maybe zip tying it will depress it enough to make the difference.

And you're sure the recently replaced ignition parts is not the issue? The ignition is a weak spot (wear item) in the 986/996.

With the new battery, are you sure you have a good ground strap and connection?

Lastly, how do we eliminate the chance that it's not the starter??

Edited by White987S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I'm not sure that zip tying the micro switch is correct. The way the switch works if I zip tie it will be the same as if the clutch is not depressed. The plunger on the switch moves outward when the clutch is depressed and goes all the way out before the clutch pedal hits the bottom.

No I'm not certain the recently replaced electrical portion of the ignition switch is the issue. All I know is that it acts the same as before it was replaced.

I assume the battery ground is good. No other issues with car electrical systems.

Not sure about the starter other than the fact that it always starts.

It's just a delay issue like sometype of communication error.

I'm going to take out the seat and check the fuse on the immobilizer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are going to take out the seat, be careful not to unplug the connection under the seat or you will set off the airbag light, which can then only be reset with a PST2, PIWIS or Durametric. You can access the immobilizer by just unbolting the 4 bolts on the seat rails and then leaning back the seat by placing a block under the seat frame.

While you are checking the immobilizer, verify that there is no water or moisture under, around or inside the immobilizer and any corrosion on the circuit board. Boxsters are notorious for clogged drains and resultant moisture/water migrating to the immobilizer.

Since the clutch interlock switch operates by allowing the ignition to fire only when the plunger is fully released (i.e., with the clutch pedal all the way down), you cannot zip tie it to get the desired effect. You can, as you suggested, pull out the two wires and jumper them together. You are then bypassing the switch, and that will have the same effect as no switch at all, meaning that the connection is "on" all the time. Just be careful that the car is NOT in gear when you try to start it or the car will lurch forward.

Regards, Maurice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Maurice,

The fuse in the immobilizer is fine. It was a pain in the ... to get the seat out but all went well. No moisture in or around the immobilizer. I'll try bypassing the clutch switch tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, I bypassed the clutch micro-switch and the beast starts immediately without any delay. I have ordered the part and hopefully problem solved

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, I bypassed the clutch micro-switch and the beast starts immediately without any delay. I have ordered the part and hopefully problem solved

Rock on. Good job! Did you order the part from Sunset? Great service. Great pricing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:thumbup: :cheers: :thumbup:

Thanks for the update!

Regards, Maurice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By PhoneyStark
      My Cayenne S 2008 won't start. I turn the ignition key and all I see is the Porsche (red) logo turn on and the mileage counter light turn on. Steering is locked, the head unit works and I can hear audio. Normally I would hear a click and then all the indicator lights would on and I would hear the soft beeps but now I don't hear anything. There is no steering / ignition faulty codes showing up on the dashboard. 
       
      Has anyone experienced this? Appreciate the help.
    • By StevieG
      Hi Porsche Gurus
      I’m trying to troubleshoot a little issue I have that just my drivers door courtesy lights (and drivers sunvisor light but not sure if that’s different issue) don’t work, both the red and white ones and only the one door(rhd car) 
      now ive checked the common things like all the fuses and the wiring to see if they were damaged or corroded but they seem fine,
      The one thing I would like to check but can not find any info on is where or what is the switch or sensor that tells the lights that the door is open to turn the lights on? 
      If I can find that then that will at least eliminate all manual fixes that I can think of unless any of you have come across this before, if it’s something simple and I look like a fool for not thinking of it then I’m happy to be a fool as long as the lights work:)
      any help would be much appreciated 
      thanks 
      Stevie G 
    • By Pkcayenne
      Hi all I’ve been fighting with the cayenne again 
      let’s me put the key in and turn it then I get steering fault as attached any ideas of a way around this or a reset thanks car won’t start 
       
       

    • By Humungus1138
      My 2004 Cayenne started missing. This happened pretty much after I put some fuel in it that may have been bad. I tried using fuel treatment, gas dry, etc but it still kept missing. Finally the CEL went on, code reader pulls cylinder misfire on 2,3 and 5
       
      since the car has 107k on it and has never had coils or plugs I figured it was time since I know that is a common cause if misfire.
       
      when I did the job I discovered that the coils were covered in a oily slime as well as the spark plugs. Only two cylinders were basically clean. The plug threads were covered in this crap too
       
      please pics. I'm assuming this is not normal but is it simply from having bad/cracked coils or is more going on? 
       
      Spark plug gaskets come to mind.
       
      im a decent amateur work on many of my vehicles, so any leads would be appreciated
       
      regards
       
      roger
       
       
       
       

    • By Catapult99
      I'm a proud new owner of a 1999 C4.  Love the car.  However, my blinkers don't work and I recently replaced the hazard relay, but still nothing.  I noticed that hazard switch, when I press it, it does not click nor change position.  My next move was to replace this switch, but I first wanted to be sure that the switches normal behavior is to indeed click, or changes positions, when you press it?  Sounds like a stupid questions, but I thought I would check with one of you have a working switch.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.