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V8 Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter Change


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V8 Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter Change


Tools needed: T40 Torx bit 17mm Allen 10mm socket 12" extension 4" extension large flat head screw driver 10mm wrench IR thermometer Breaker bar fluid pump Coat hanger or heavy gauge steel wire Oil drain pan Lots of paper towels Parts: Transmission filter Transmission filter O-ring Pan gasket Fill plug gasket Drain plug gasket 9 Quarts of Toyota Type -IV ATF or Porsche approved fluid (Please see my other post showing the oil analysis proving type 4 is chemically identical)

 

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  • 7 months later...

Changed filter and fluid today. Did pretty much the same thing as described in DIY. Started and stopped the engine about 4 times before it stopped pulling down the fluid. After that I did the fluid fill with the engine running and it took the last two quarts then. Used the Durametric software for the temp reading. It took about 9 quarts. I bought 10 just in case and after a couple of spills I'm glad I did. I also used a brake bleeder as a pump - just changed the hose end with a cut piece of coat hanger in the rubber hose to get the curve on the end to bend it over the top of the fill port.

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  • 11 months later...
  • Moderators

No, the wheels do not need to spin, therefor it is not necessary to jack up the car. Only with the engine running, handbrake on and foot on the brake pedal, go slowly through the various positions and back should be sufficient.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I mad a mess... oil everywhere, anyway I could fill up the tranny with only 7 and half quarter. I used a brake bleeder as a pump but it was too slow, I just kept pumping the fluid until it started to drip out, the temperature of the transmission pan was around 43 degree. Should I keep trying to fill up the tranny? Now if I open the fill plug did the oil will come out?

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Update, this morning I pumped inside the tranny at least one more quarter of oil, then I left the motor running until the oil was at 40 degree and letting it dripping out before torquening the filling plug. Unfortunately I think that I stripped the drain plug, my dynamometric wrench wasn't working, I was waiting to ear the click forcing the bolt and now the bolt keep turning. The car runs fine, I'll wait a couple days to see if it's dripping from the drain plug. If that would be the case, what you suggest?

Edited by Doohan
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  • 2 weeks later...

Did this today. It took about 6 quarts, and I wonder if I should be worried. I will not be putting the plastics back on til done for sure. My plan, take it to work tomorrow, and after return check fluid again to see if it takes any more.

Hope somebody can chime in on this post with advice. Thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...

Some things to watch: if you don't get the o-ring seated right or it falls out while you're replacing the filter, the transmission won't be able to draw a suction on the oil in the pan and you won't be able to fill more than 3 quarts.  Double check this before you tighten the filter in. 

 

When you fill initially, there are 3 steps.  Fill till it starts to drain out, cycle the transmission through the gears, top off the pan.  As the transmission heats up, the fluid is going to expand.  If the transmission is at the right level when you start, at say 35C, it's going to dump fluid as it approaches 40.  Full at 40C is the spec, so full at 39 is just a little extra and should be fine.  Full at 41 is below completely full, also probably not a crisis.  The key is not to expect to be able to pump more in once you've cycled the gears and topped it off once. 

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