Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
I am completely flummoxed by this noise I am getting in my 2004 Turbo Cab. A couple nights ago while driving home with the top down, I noticed a rattle different from the normal sound of the motor and not accelerating/decelerating with changes in engine RPM. It occurred at 1800-2000 rpm and was most noticeable when decelerating in 2nd gear in my neighborhood at slow speeds (~20MPH)... with a helper on the throttle and the engine compartment open, it sounds like it is coming from the right side-top of the engine, around the Hydraulic reservoir. Putting a spanner/wrench on the component and up to the temple seems to have confirmed this as the source. I checked my manual and the Pentosin level (mid range on the HOT side of the dipstick at operating temp) I realize that Porsche recommends checking at 20C but I live in Texas now and that won't happen until November. Just out of curiosity I looked at the clutch reservoir up front and after removing the gooey trim cover, found it leaking (Seeping) from the recently replaced cap and appearing to be overfilled. The car has never really been operated in the 8 years I have had it in particularly high average temperatures, so I am hoping that the front is thermal expansion. Any thoughts on this matter are greatly appreciated... Loren? What Say You??
Thanks in advance,
Odd one for the group here:
I have a 2004 Turbo Cab (manual) with X50 that I have owned since early 2010 and put around 30K miles on in that time (Bought with ~20k miles). I recently found a 2004 Turbo Cab ( Tiptronic) with ~29,000 miles that was such a good deal that my parents purchased it. I drove the thing recently while visiting and a couple times in constant-radius turns on back roads, the PSM intervened out of nowhere (The first time it happened I actually thought I hit a shift button with my thumb and downshifted mid corner). Anyway, I got it to intervene once more in a pretty benign turn. There certainly wasn't 7 degrees of slip angle and I have to push my own car much harder (read: screw up the corner entry) to get PSM to intervene. I guess my question(s) is/are this: Is there a difference in the PSM software between the Tiptronic cars and Manual?, a malfunction in the Tip?
Very interested to hear the responses. Thanks
Hi - I am looking for some help. The headlights are the litronic ones.
I don't drive the car very often - maybe once a month and often this is in the daylight.
I had a headlight globe 'fail' about 12 months ago. I replaced it and everything seemed good. Then it stopped working. Then it started working. Then both headlights stopped working - some of the time. I am beginning to think that this is possibly not a globe problem.
I am running into some electrical issues that all happened at once. Here are the items that I found not functioning: Cluster Illumination, power seats, radio ( PCM does not power on), engine lid switch (frunk works), HVAC (the screen is functioning, but not blowing any air).
The car starts fine and runs. I initially thought maybe the ignition switch was faulty, so I went ahead and replaced but nothing changed. I have checked many fuses and they all look fine. There are no trouble codes.
If it matters, this is the scenario when I noticed all the problems: I just finished driving about 70 miles with no problems. Park the car outside and it started to rain. I needed to move the car so I got back in and noticed when I turned the light switch to the first notch, cluster did not illuminate but the headlights worked when I turned it to the next notch. Then I started testing to find the other symptoms. Everything was working on the drive I took a few hours before. Though after the drive, I was messing with the light switch to see if the fog lights worked. I never use them and for whatever reason I wanted to test if it worked, so I was turning the light switch way more than usual I guess. I drive the car a few times a week as it is my main car.
A new owner of 02 996tt with a question about the tires and acceptable rolling diameter differences between the front and rears. I apologize for bringing this question again, did an extensive search here and on rennlist and I am finding a bit of a conflicting information.
So far, looks I have come to conclusion that the front to rear tire diameter difference within 2% is predominantly acceptable by forum users that appear to be knowledgeable and factual. Some of them are actually stating to stay within 1% max.
But, then I ran into a replay to similar post from a very reputable member who is claiming “as a rule of thumb difference up to 4% is acceptable”!!!.
One of the explanations for 1% or less that I have found is that the original P-design setup was with 3 revolutions per mile difference (832 @ R and 829 @ F) which is 0.3 % diameter difference (616 mm (24 ¼”) R (~ 24 3/8” ) and 618 mm F) – almost identical rolling diameters between the axles. I did not have a chance to check for available information in P technical publications to find any design/engineering rational for such interpretation of the original set up.
Now, if you allow for 2% diameter difference you are ending up with almost 7 times as much spin differential in the VC, not to mention 13 times as much at 4% diameter difference. 4% also sounds a bit large as the axle center would go up for almost a half inch with the tire diameter increased for 1 inch one over the other (4% at 25.5” reference diameter).
I might be wrong on all of this, and I again I did not have a chance to check in P technical publications. I apologize on a long note and appreciate any clarifications and advice as my plan is to try to come up with some out-of-ordinary tire size combinations within the 18`OE rim constraints (strictly driven by limited choices I have here in Canada, plan to control my budget and idea to get started with a good ``starter`` street tire that is not Michelin PS2 :D and slowly to start learning the car - would like to go with Conti DW or Super Sports but struggling to figure out correct sizes ).