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The soft plastic part of my key fob is not in good shape. I ordered a replacement "shell" and it seems to be pretty well made. I need to take apart my old key fob to transfer the circuit board and the metal key to the new "shell". Does anyone know how to dismantle a key fob?

I have tried a bit and am pretty much destroying the old one. I don't really want to destroy it. I can use a dremel tool but in the end I may just replace the soft plastic insert (the part with the key and trunk symbol on it).

The key fob is built like a tank.

Thanks...

The items on the right of the picture is mostly the new "shell" parts.

post-88071-0-87451000-1365129257_thumb.j

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The soft plastic part of my key fob is not in good shape. I ordered a replacement "shell" and it seems to be pretty well made. I need to take apart my old key fob to transfer the circuit board and the metal key to the new "shell". Does anyone know how to dismantle a key fob?

I have tried a bit and am pretty much destroying the old one. I don't really want to destroy it. I can use a dremel tool but in the end I may just replace the soft plastic insert (the part with the key and trunk symbol on it).

The key fob is built like a tank.

Thanks...

The items on the right of the picture is mostly the new "shell" parts.

attachicon.gifIMG450a.jpg

Yes some breakage would be there....its glued and you have to force it.....

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    • By Bend986
      Hello-
       
      I'm new to this website. Here is a  question:
       
      I have a 1998 Boxster 2.5 Tiptronic. I just had a new key programmed at dealership ( the old key fob newer worked). With new key fob, all doors  (including gas) lock and unlock appropriately. However, when pressing the button to open the rear trunk lid, the lid doesn't move and the rear lock actuator/solenoid is silent.   I disconnected the actuator from the car (separating the plastic connector) and using a 9v battery, made the actuator ( and lock) open and close. So I believe the problem is not the actuator. I also connected a volt meter to the two wires that connect from the car to the actuator,  then pressed the fob button, and no voltage was recorded. However, the red light on the fob and the red light on the dash near the windshield did light up 
       
      So i believe the problem lies in the electrical system somewhere between the actuator and the fob. Any ideas on how to test the wiring running from the trunk lock actuator to the CLU? immobilizer? or wherever it goes?   Or should I be spending my time evaluating the CLU? immobilizer? ??
       
      Thanks for any advise!
       
      /Bend986
       
       
       
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