Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I need to change the rear pads on my 2004 2.7

The question is do I pay for Original Porsche parts or go with an alternative?

If I go with an alternative, which ones?

I am just a standard diver, no track days. Just everyday use.

Thanks for the help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In your case, I'd replace with stock Porsche pads.

Check the rotor thickness as these rotors typically cannot be resurfaced if there is much wear or significant grooving. If your rotors are at or near minimum thickness you might want to replace them while you're there. Extra $ but an important part of the car not worth puching limits with.

Also, replace the brake fluid if it hasn't been done in the past 18 months. It is a rather simple proceedure and well worth it - only $12 to $15 a liter for ATE blue or gold fluid. I alternate colors at each succesive change so that I can tell when the fluid in the line is new. Porsche recommends every two years. My friends who track their cars do it at least once a year depending on how often they are on the track.

Edited by 4agdtym

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try Mintex pads. They are probably the cheapest you can get yet they have a better coefficient of friction than the very expensive Brembo that Porsche wants you to buy. I have used Mintex on the track with no problems. The Brembos I used on the track built up material on the rotors and caused chatter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By freddyc
      Hi all,I know that there has been a lot of talk regarding fitting rear speakers to a 981 Boxster . I have a 2014 GTS with sound system plus and I am very keen to add speakers behind the seats to fill in the sound. Is there a way of either enabling the fader on the PCM and then wiring the rear speakers to the amplifier under the seat ? Alternatively,connecting the rear speakers with a resistor of 16 ohms in parallel with the front speakers?
    • By troyporsche
      hey guys , past couple months my cayenne s 04 air suspension warning light has been on, after a minute of driving. when i try lowing or raising the vehicle, the front end works fine but the rear suspension stay stationery in raise mode. even when using the diagnostic to force the rear to lower nothing happens .fault codes in the level control system was for rear suspension holding valve . so i went ahead and replaced both rear holding valve and recalibrate the suspension. it worked fine for two months .now the warning light is back the rear suspension is stuck in high and not lowing.
      new fault codes p1780 , 1400 
      im unsure what to do. do i replace the valve again or is there some else wrong 
       
      what do you guys think?
    • By osamabatrikhi
      Hello,
       
      I have genuine Porsche front Brake pads installed on my Cayenne, the warning light to replace them just appear while I only drove 28K kilometer, is this normal? is there a better quality that last longer?
    • By mike_85142
      This just started - When you turn the key to start the vehicle, there is a noise (hum) from the sub-woofer that's stays on until the starter cranks.  When the car starts, everything related to the radio is normal, but the LED on the Rear Defroster switch stays on all of the time.  I was told the Rear Defroster relay is bad so I purchase a replacement.  I'm having a problem locating this relay.  Is it located under the dash or behind the rear seat?  Which relay is it?
    • By Tall Paul
      Hi, I've recently obtained a Bose rear subwoofer deck for my 03 986 Boxster and like to get feedback as to the easiest way to connect to my CDR-23 with Haes 6chan amp (with MOST).
       
      Anyone done this, can it be done?
       
      Help much appreciate.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.