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Annoying creak from rear passenger window area!


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This is driving me around the bend!
Has anybody else had it and know of any fixes?
Also I'm noticing a rattle from underneath the centre of the dashboard.
Arrgghhhhhhh.

Is it a window out job? If so, how? I've searched the workshop manual but to no avail. I have manged to look inside and there is a rubber seal that goes all around the window, this will pull off I think.

Cheers

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  • Admin

For the rear panel - most fixes involve removing the panel and installing Teflon tape on the binding surfaces.

For the dash noise - check TSB 9025 dated Dec 13, 2005. Similarly rattles can be loose components or panels - so tighten the components mounts or apply felt tape to the loose panel(s).

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Hi Michelin,

It is very unlikely that the window is your problem. They are essentially glued in. Do not remove any rubber gaskets.

The location of a rattle can be extremely misleading. If you are the kind of guy that hates rattles you have two choices. Stay away from 911s or get yourself a set of Engine Ears. With Engine Ears you will be able to precisely locate the rattle which gets you 90% of the way towards solving the problem. Then you can use all those tricks Loren mentions. My favorite fix is butyl glazing tape. Stuff sticks to and dampens anything. You can get this from your local glass shop. The next is heavy duty 3M mounting tape. The red stuff.

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The rear side windows are not glued in, as the inner rubber seal is removed you will see that the window is attached, with screws, to a regulating system, sometimes the screws come loose with a creaking sound as result. Tighten the screws, in compliance with the rear side window up/down and in/out possition, and lubricate everything inclusive the seal with some silicone grease or spray. Then do a test drive related to the creaking and eventually wind noise. If the creaking still persist, it may be that one ore more weld points have come loose. That is more a bodyshop matter.

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RFM is right. I was thinking they were set in like the front and rear glass. They are pulled in against a rubber gasket by three screws which screw into brackets glued to the glass. Looking at the window I do not think these screws are accessible with out removing trim panels in the car. But I may be wrong again. Certainly, glass can creak against rubber and it sounds like RFM has seen this before. But, before pulling the car apart and getting into more trouble it is always best to know exactly where the noise is coming from. I had a 993 TT which had an annoying rattle which sounded like it was coming from the glove box. I spent hours going over that side of the dash trying to stop the rattle. Finally, I went back to the dealer. We road tested the car the tech driving with me in the passenger seat armed with Engine Ears. Waving the wand around I easily located the rattle coming from the floor just in front of the door. Nothing there but carpet??? The rattle was the plastic under panel rapping against the bottom of the car. A dab of butyl gazing tape under the panel stopped the rattle for good. Being a rattle neurotic I got myself a set of Engine Ears and have never been stumped since.

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In order to remove a rear side window you have to remove the C-pillar and seat belt trim exposing two Allan cap screws at the rear apex and front upper corner and one nut at the front lower corner of the window. Unscrew the Allan cap screws and the one nut. Attach a suction cup handle to the outside of the window and release the window pulling down and out. My favorite Porsche tech informs me that the window will be really stuck in there and removal frequently breaks the window. He has also never seen a 996 or 997 rear side window make noise of any kind. If you manage to get the window out in one piece, thoroughly clean the window and gasket and install the window ( with the suction cup handle) by carefully pushing the window up and in. Pull the outer window gasket out over the window with a small spatula then position the window so that the gap to the front side window is 7 mm Plus or minus 1 mm. Reinstall the two Allan cap screws (with washers) and one nut. Tighten them all first to 7.2 ftlb then finally to 17 ftlb. Reinstall all the trim.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys, thanks to all who have contributed.

I sprayed some silicone liquid and, for the time being, its quiet.

The dash rattle is still there. I've had the PCM out but nothing obvious.

The car is going to sleep tomorrow for winter so these are now jobs for April.

Many thanks to all.

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