Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
By Richard in Alberta
Greetings - I have traced a coolant leak to the rear of the alternator - wondering if anyone else has seen this and whether its repairable or I just have to commit to replacing it (once I can find a replacement - they seem to be rather hard to find at the moment).... Cheers.
By Kevin Bryck
Okay this is REALLY specific.
The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Missing cable location
Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
By Mark Stubbs
Hi guys.Finnally got the Boxster on the road after an enforced year stood.It sounded a bit rattly when I started it up.I have done about 50 miles in it since all short journeys, and it still making the same noise.Not knowing much about these engines not sure if it's something more serious than tapped, alternator bearing???.Im not driving it and will get it recovered to an Indy for assessment, so any suggestions will be gratefully received. Hopefully other club members will chime in.
After 18yrs my convertible top has finally encountered its first issue. After using this forum (thank you!!) to figure out how to access all of the components (top was stuck in closed position), I found the root of my issue, a bad cable. However, as I was very carefully removing the cable from the transmission, the "clip" which is molded into the plastic cover cracked and is no longer functional (see image). Not really surprising on an 18yr old piece of plastic. The transmission works perfectly and I do not want to replace it, so I am looking for advice on any other ways that I can keep the cable properly engaged to the transmission. Please let me know if anyone else has encountered this and if there are any viable solutions. Thank you!
I would like to do the tests on alternator and cables described in a post of Ahsai on June 25, 2013.
Some of the tests involve connecting into the alternator output called ‘A’ in the post. I have trouble in locating ‘A’ on the back side of the alternator using an inspection mirror and I am not sure about how to make a reliable connection into it with the test cable. The post mentions the use of a J shaped hook attached to an insulated wire, but I don't know what the connection point looks like and where it is. I am also concerned about the risk of causing a short.
Any suggestions on how I should proceed?