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By Nick Radloff
Hello. This is my first time posting as this is my first issue with my 2006 Cayenne S and this is also my first Porsche. The vehicle had an aftermarket radio in it when I purchased it and I changed that radio for another one that supported Apple CarPlay. both units are made by pioneer and after looking at the backs of them it appears to be plug and play. I changed everything out and fired it up and everything was great. No issues or errors and the sound worked fine and calls worked fine. The previous installer used only twisted ends and electrical tape to secure the wiring so I took the wiring apart and used wire nuts to make sure nothing came apart while it was being installed and for longevity. After starting the car back up, I received a brake proportioning fault and an oil pressure fault and it told me workshop fault as well. I pulled fuse 40 as I heard it resets the system and plugged it back in. The brake proportioning fault is gone but the oil pressure fault remains. I double checked my wiring work to make sure that I was not missing anything and nothing had come back apart. Everything is indeed attached and plugged in.
Now that I have finished my long-winded story, was this fault caused because I knocked something loose or because I left the fiber optic cabling unplugged for too long. I noticed that there was a red light coming from the input and of the fiber optic cabling a couple of times while I was rewiring it. Do I just need to reset this system using a better method or do you think something is wrong with it?
Any help would be appreciated and I intend on donating to this forum and website as it seems to be a true source of knowledge and help for the DIY Porsche enthusiast. Thank you in advance and I look forward to your responses.
By Kevin Bryck
Okay this is REALLY specific.
The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Missing cable location
Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
If you have a 996 Targa you'll know that the little rubber piece that covers the rear glass' latch tends to degrade and fall apart. I designed a replacement piece that you can 3D print. Just make sure that you use PETG or ABS plastic so it doesn't melt when your car is sitting out in the sun. I'll probably get some filler primer and some matte black paint to make it match the rest of the trim, but I think it turned out pretty well.
I don't know how much a genuine replacement costs, but it was a fun little exercise for me.
Download for FREE here:
By Kevin Bryck
Cabriolet side/mud flaps are actuated by this lead screw which is attached to the shaft of the drive motor.
If your tops gets out of synch as mine did when the bolt that holds a side arm casting to the hydraulic piston fell out, then it creates a cascading nightmare of fragile part failures.
First that spindly potentiometer arm with the lightening holes to save a hundredth of gram of plastic breaks off, now these.
This tiny molded soft plastic nut runs on what I measure as a M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw, which is apparently less common than the M8 x 2 pitch lead screw used in 3D printers.
It is ridiculous to replace the entire side flap assembly because this soft plastic lead screw nut gets run to the end and stripped/cracked so it runs too slow and the computer times out.
Has anyone sourced this lead screw nut or a replacement M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw nut with a triangular or round flange that could be cut down square to insert into the carrier that operates the flap?
By Andre Kristian
Hi guys, Newbie to the forum here. I have a 2002 996 C2 Cab new to me and been enjoying it since I got it 2 years ago. Mostly trouble free until two weeks ago when the cab top started to acting up and then quit all together. I had to do the emergency manual procedure, after checking all the obvious stuff (i.e. fuses, relays, micro-switches all tested and works). I started taking the mechanism apart, checked, cleaned and lubed everything, put it back together, run the calibration (Durametric), things start to work again wonderfully (or so I thought). The clam-shell lid started to hesitating and eventually got stuck halfway. I had to do the manual emergency operation again. Durametric gave a timeout error, the problem seems to be the clam-shell lid. Removed the motor and turned the mechanism manually it moves smoothly. Removed the lid motor by connecting it directly to the AC battery it's humming but the gear seems to turn hesitantly. So I took the motor apart and I found out that the plastic gear got chewed on one area (see attached pictures) where the worm gear rotating. I tried to rebuild the gear teeth by using JB Weld (and all kinds of epoxies brands and types), it's always working for a while and then same thing at the same area got chewed again. I guess it's not strong enough to hold the metal turning screw. My question now is, do I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor or do you guys have any recommendation if I can get this gear fix or custom made obviously within reasonable price (scratch that I just check with a CNC machine company it will cost roughly $300-$400). The price of a new motor is around 600 dollars at Sunset Porsche, a used one at eBay maybe around 300 - 400 dollars with the whole mechanism (which I don't need). Any suggestion is appreciate it. -Andre