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Installing RMS without Porsche Special Tool 9609 + 9606/1

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Thanks John. I'll see if I could get it from here first before bothering you.


He had them custom made by a machine shop.  I bought one to test against the factory tool (works fine), if your interested in it, let me know.



I think you will find that Mr. Cheetah dropped off the planet some time ago.  We have had several posters try to contact him without success.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 8 months later...

Thanks for this useful guide.

I made my own tool from a 3" pvc (not ABS) sewer pipe cap.Some mention 4" ,so take your old RMS as a sample when rummaging at Home Depot.

I drilled 4 holes in the cap ,not 2 because I tried a 2 hole system and screwed up ! Why? Impatience. I cleaned the metal surfaces with alcohol but must have failed to wipe off carefully(?) .The slippery surface allowed the new RMS to cant  over - ruined ! To remove, I used a pair of woodworkers gimlets by hand *No screw+slide hammer -too brutal !

I  marked the pvc cap at 13mm and cut out "Witness Windows".

As a precaution glued  in a piece of Sch.80(not 40) pvc pipe at the correct depth.This acts as a stop to prevent over-driving the seal. The Sch 80 has a small cut out for the roll pin. I doubt any of this was necessary !

The contraption was too deep to use the old flywheel bolts to pull the cap on to the RMS. No problem ,I have a huge assortment of metric bolts. But not 4 x M10 x 1.0 , 80 mm full thread bolts . Quick order to Bolt Depot. They only sent 2 ! Wait for some more bolts. It may have been just as fast on the left coast to order threaded rod from China and cut to length. 70 mm is not quie long enough unless you start the rms by tapping.That is rather stupid because it is easy to get it canted and that is the whole point of the tool! To complete the task with 70mm shoulder bolts, you'll need 4 spacers(big nuts) for the final few millimeters because the 70mm shoulder bolts will bottom out before you reach 13mm.

So ,if you can , borrow the correct tool or follow the earlier Instructions - not mine.

My system worked but is needlessly complicated.



Edited by Schnell Gelb
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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Based on the dimensions by Domiac and Coloradocurt (thank you!) I came up with a version of the tool that uses the DMF bolts to push it and the RMS into its position by turning the bolts little by little in a cross-wise pattern. Reason being that I managed to destroy a brand new seal by tapping it in using a tool as described above as it canted over.


Thickness of the tool is such that it bottoms out against the crank flange before the DMS bolts bottom out in their thread holes.


I'll post up my dimensions as soon as I have verified them to work as intended.





One in alloy, one in (engineering) plastic.



Edited by hardtailer
Edited to add pictures of the two I've had made.
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  • 6 months later...
On 10/11/2018 at 5:34 PM, hardtailer said:

Based on the dimensions by Domiac and Coloradocurt (thank you!) I came up with a version of the tool that uses the DMF bolts to push it and the RMS into its position by turning the bolts little by little in a cross-wise pattern. Reason being that I managed to destroy a brand new seal by tapping it in using a tool as described above as it canted over.


Thickness of the tool is such that it bottoms out against the crank flange before the DMS bolts bottom out in their thread holes.


I'll post up my dimensions as soon as I have verified them to work as intended.





One in alloy, one in (engineering) plastic.





Reviving old thread.


Did this work? have the new dimensions? 

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It worked. I was able to fit the seal to the correct depth and without it canting over in the process.

Something I had not managed two times earlier so I call this installation (using yet another new seal, original Porsche part) a succes.

However,  yesterday I had the car up on the lift to bleed the clutch hydraulics and noticed a drop of oil hanging right below the seal...


I have replaced the IMS seal too (already has the updated design with the brown double ribbed seal) and used blue loctite on the threads and thread sealant below the heads on the three bolts that mount it to the case and on the thread of the bearing carrier itself before I tightened the nut. So I don't think it's leaking there.


The engine (MY99 original engine with 110k miles and manual gearbox) was of the leaking ims seal variety and the seal I took out seemed to be the one installed by the factory.

Seal was installed without touching the sealing surface and no additional sealant on the outside. Bore and crank surface were cleaned prior to fitment.

Checked the installed depth and it was correct.

Any hints or advice for the (far) future?


Edit: just read one of the listed 'similar contents' where Loren mentioned 'out of round bore' for which the beefier GT3 seal would be suited for. I didn't check the bore for this but based on the result I guess the nore is out of round. Is the gt3 seal still the solution for these cases by general consensus today?


The dimensions are in the pictures below and in the SketchUp file attached.

















Edited by hardtailer
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  • 1 year later...

If you are replacing the RMS for the first time(like me) and don't have ideal tools, I suggest buying 2 PTFE seals - they are inexpensive. The reason for this 'extravagance' is that without ideal tools it is easy to get the seal out of square in the bore. You'll find that when you try to correct the problem by tapping on the high side you'll over-drive the seal so it will be too deep. If you have a second seal you'll learn from your experience, remove the first attempt and triumph with the second seal.

If you only have one seal you'll be delayed waiting for a replacement or worse, tempted to ignore the cocked seal.

Using the correct(diy) tool and tightening the bolts in small increments methodically works well.

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