Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

I just bought a 08 Carrera and had an 02 before. I used Mobil 1 0W-40 European Blend before but since I live in Northern California where temps are not too low I could use Mobil 1 5W-40. Only issue being I can only find Mobil 1 5W-40 in the Diesel variety? Any comments as to that.

Thanks,

Brad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Castrol also makes a "Volkswagon spec 502" 5W 40 which Audi uses exclusively now. You can get it at any Auto Zone. I use Miller's Oil CFS 5W 40 which is a Racing spec oil. It has more ZDDP in it which is great for the engine, not so great for the cats. Frankly, all you have to do to clean the cats is run them hot for a few minutes. You can burn it right off that way. Just nail the car from about 45 MPH in 6th gear several times. Pick a nice highway early on a Sunday morning. If you get stopped just tell the trooper you are cleaning your cats (with a big polite smile)

Edited by Mijostyn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I would wait about 10,000 miles before I used a 5W 50. Let the car break in well. CroMoly rings, Lokasil liners, all very hard stuff. I have always noticed that the oil utilization drops as the car breaks in. Up here in New England I would only consider that for a Summer car only. I sort of doubt anyone would drive a GT2 up here in the Winter.....

The only reason Porsche uses Mobil products is they have a marketing deal. Mobil was the first with a fully Synthetic oil and I use to use it exclusively in all my cars. But, everyone else has caught up. Porsche is basically recommending oil based on the Volkvagen 502 spec. If it is an approved 502 spec oil you are good to go. It will say so on the label. The Miller's Oil is actually not. It has too much ZDDP in it. This is a friction reducer which a very important ingredient in most oils prior to modern cats. Oils with ZDDP in them are significantly better for your engine and worse for your cats which is why modern oil severely restict its use. The engines are now also designed to run well without it. But like I said you can always burn any ZDDP deposits off buy lightling up those cats. When I drove my 993 TT hard at night the cats actually glowed red! All those high milage oils have much more ZDDP in them. Miller's will be along shortly with a 502 spec nano particle oil for street cars. I use the CFS 5W40 in all my cars now and they run great. In the new 991 Turbo S I will run Mobil 1 for the 1st 10,000 then switch to the Miller's. Same for my wife's new SQ5 Audi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies to my question as to Mobil 1. Another product comes to mind that I have found, Amsoil "European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil". I have used Amsoil synthetics in my previous Toyota truck for years with good success and am thinking about running it in the 997 as it gets the Porsche A40 approval. I just do not feel comfortable running a 5W-50 weight when 40W is spec'd in Porsche's manual. Feel for raps or replies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies to my question as to Mobil 1. Another product comes to mind that I have found, Amsoil "European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil". I have used Amsoil synthetics in my previous Toyota truck for years with good success and am thinking about running it in the 997 as it gets the Porsche A40 approval. I just do not feel comfortable running a 5W-50 weight when 40W is spec'd in Porsche's manual. Feel for raps or replies.

Full SAPS Amsoil Euro may be a good fit. Amsoil makes quality products. Just ensure its full SAPS.

M1 5W-50 contains a lot of viscosity improvers to get to 5W ---> 50 range. It shears in service to 40 grade quite quickly. I would honestly prefer more shear stable product.

Motul X-Cess is A40 approved and consistently delivers excellent UOAs.

Millers CFS NT is the only product from the above list that offers nano technology to protect engine parts in boundary and mixed types of lubrication (when most of engine wear occurs). It's been in my sump for last year and a half. The engine runs silk smooth, powerful and delivers improved fuel economy. My search is over.

Search for my user name, I posted some UOAs in past with Motul and M1. Here and on Rennlist.

YMMV

Cheers,

Luke

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Luke,

Thanks for the great feedback and explanations as to what you use and some others as well. My car like many 911 sees a considerable amount of garage time as I typically drive my Tundra to work which is all of a 20 mile round trip 5 days a week. So in one respect I do not get a lot of miles on my two vehicles and thus change oils a lot sooner then by mileage, no harm no foul just how it is. Oil is cheap, 911 engines are not. Appreciate your great inputs!

Thanks,

Brad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.....I do a lot of short trips.....

.....I do the short trips also .....

Those short trips are most damaging to your engines. And oil. It takes approximately 10 miles to fully warm the beast up to operating temperature. There is close to 10L of oil and 32 L of coolant. It takes time to bring the machinery to its operating temperature.

If on top of that you drive it hard during warm up period, in essence you cause accelerated wear in the engine.

Mijostyn, I am certain that your UOA would improve significantly after a long drive. Fuel dilution is typically associated with track use or a pattern of hard acceleration followed by hard braking and over again and again. A fuel dilution reading can be either extrapolated from the flashpoint or an actual reading. Check with your lab what method they use. You may be able to guess fuel dilution by low viscosity and elevated wear.

A good tell tale sign is condition of your oil filler cap. Have a look at the inside of it. If you see brown deposits, your engine most likely does not get to Op. Temp. often enough or long enough. Moisture in oil will accelerate oxidation process and introduce acids primarily from combustion byproducts and that will negatively affect your TBN.

These are complex issues. I can only offer some suggestions. Based on my UOA, my TBN dropped to 8.4 only after 7,400 kms. That suggest that higher oil change intervals are possible with CFS NT.

Happy to discuss this subject further.

Cheers, Luke

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.....I do a lot of short trips.....

.....I do the short trips also .....

Those short trips are most damaging to your engines. And oil. It takes approximately 10 miles to fully warm the beast up to operating temperature. There is close to 10L of oil and 32 L of coolant. It takes time to bring the machinery to its operating temperature.

If on top of that you drive it hard during warm up period, in essence you cause accelerated wear in the engine.

Mijostyn, I am certain that your UOA would improve significantly after a long drive. Fuel dilution is typically associated with track use or a pattern of hard acceleration followed by hard braking and over again and again. A fuel dilution reading can be either extrapolated from the flashpoint or an actual reading. Check with your lab what method they use. You may be able to guess fuel dilution by low viscosity and elevated wear.

A good tell tale sign is condition of your oil filler cap. Have a look at the inside of it. If you see brown deposits, your engine most likely does not get to Op. Temp. often enough or long enough. Moisture in oil will accelerate oxidation process and introduce acids primarily from combustion byproducts and that will negatively affect your TBN.

These are complex issues. I can only offer some suggestions. Based on my UOA, my TBN dropped to 8.4 only after 7,400 kms. That suggest that higher oil change intervals are possible with CFS NT.

Happy to discuss this subject further.

Cheers, Luke

Running CFS NT 5W40 by 6000 miles I am diluted 2.5% and my TBN has dropped almost to 3 which is my limit. I use Polaris who has some difficulty with the Millers. They over read Zinc levels and oxidation. The base stocks Millers use are simply not going to burn in street use. As you suggest after the oil temp is up, I drive the car hard. The world is my race track. This may add to the dilution and acid problem but that is why we do these analyses. I know I can safely run the oil 6000 miles without worry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Luke,

After all my questions and doing research and going back and forth in my head I decided to go with Motul 8100 X-cess Synthetic 5W-40. I bought the oil in the 5 Liter jug in a case of 4 each jugs which will allow for 2 oil changes. I purchased it through Amazon and paid $144.94 U.S. for the case of 4. I am going to change my oil every 6 month regardless of miles as I do not drive the car 6,000 mi in 6 months so that should be fine.

Regards,

Brad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Isnt 0w40 or 5w40 the factory recommended? Im about to do an oil change myself and was going to order some 0w40 mobil 1 on amazon. I do a lot of short trips so i figured the 0w40 would be a good fit for me.

Check out Walmart,s price for Mobil1 0w40 M1 as it runs around $ 25 for the 5 QT jug. Hard to eat that price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Isnt 0w40 or 5w40 the factory recommended? Im about to do an oil change myself and was going to order some 0w40 mobil 1 on amazon. I do a lot of short trips so i figured the 0w40 would be a good fit for me.

Hard to eat that price.

Very! Yuck! LOL!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ty

Isnt 0w40 or 5w40 the factory recommended? Im about to do an oil change myself and was going to order some 0w40 mobil 1 on amazon. I do a lot of short trips so i figured the 0w40 would be a good fit for me.

Hard to eat that price.

Very! Yuck! LOL!!

Typing on an IPad is an itch !!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.