Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses
Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help... THANK YOU!
Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
I replaced the CDR23 HU with one of those Chinese (Seicane Android) unit.
When I put the key in the ignition, the controls on steering wheel work fine, but when I start the engine, the controls don’t work. Also, I noticed that if I wait to start the engine (say 10+ seconds) after putting the key in the ignition, there is no sound from the Bose amp, but if I start it right away, it works. I also hear that thump sound from the amp when I remove the key from the ignition.
The MOST adapter (in turn, the amp) wiring is getting power from the Canbus adapter. It is switched, meaning, it will not work unless there is a key in the ignition. Does it have to be unswtiched power connection? If so, any reason why? And could this tapping power from the canbus adapter in parallel causing the steering wheel controls to not work when engine is running? Sorry, I am not an electrical engineer, so some of these questions may sound stupid.
Any suggestions, besides suggesting to replace the sh!tty Bose amp?:)
I am busy installing a NAV TV iPod adapter to my 07 3.4S Boxster 987 PCM 2.1 system and I need to find a switched power source for the bluetooth adapter that I have coupled to it. I thought the power out from the wiring bridge connector (used at the back of the PCM 2.1 unit) that came with the NAV TV system would provide a switched power connection however I realise now that the power on/off signal comes from the MOST fibre connection while power to the loom stays on.
Does anyone know where the best place is to take a switched power tap from?
I have issue with CR220 on 2002 Porsche Boxster Base, it didn't power on at first so here is the progress I made sofar
- Read the blogs/youtube and removed the radio after purchasing the radio removal tool from Walmart (~$6)
- Found the fuse behind the radio was blown (10Amp), replaced it with one from local auto store
- now the radio is ON but prompting for **CODE**, thanks to Renntech got the code to unlock it
- Entered the CODE now the radio seems to be working but NO audio !!!
- Looked at the service manual and fuse details since some of the blogs pointed me to fuse box and the fuse for the AMP.
- The 7.5Amp fuse was blown on the fuse box ROW D and Number 9 (D9). So while I am waiting for the fuse to arrive (from amazon) I - - had a 15AMP fuse handy and tried to insert it but there was a spar when I tried to do that !!!, guessing a short to the ground some where down the wires.
- So started to remove Audio related modules from the front of the trunk. And found two Bose modules one seems to be the AMP big black casing with lot of vent holes. And there is another module don't know what it is. After I disconnected the wiring connectors from these modules I was able to insert the D9 fuse in the fuse box. So I am guessing there is something is wrong with the AMP or the other Bose module.
Did you see similar problem ? What are these two modules for ? there 3 connectors going to these two modules. Any ideas on how to fix it or get it repaired (i don't know which one of these two has the issue or short)
Have a 2005 base package cayenne without the Bose package, like to know if the wiring is there to add the Bose factory subwoofer and amp for it. And would i also have to change the head unit to the Bose as well to get the full benefit of it. Dont want to go to all the trouble just to add a little bit more low end to it, but would like to know before i buy a subwoofer for it.