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itzmetmcd

Starting Problem After Fueling 986

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Hello... I think I've read just about every post related to this issue.

Only after fueling the car, it will not start. It will crank fine but not start. Three (3) times in the past 60 days that it has been fueled it would not start. It was flatbeded by a tow truck those 3 times and once taken off/ rolled-off the flatbed truck it started immediately without any problem and every time after until being re-fueled again then, the same problem. The codes are P0446, P1128/P1130 and P0430. I know what the codes are.

  • P0430 Catalytic Converter Conversion Too Low (Cylinders 4 - 6)
  • P0446 EVAP Canister Shutoff Valve (Function) - Below Lower Limit
  • P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold
  • P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

From my research: **P0446 indicates that there is a problem with the activated charcoal filter / tank vent system. This is causing the mixture problems leading to the P1128 and P1130 codes.

I'm just trying to figure out which of the following makes the most sense given the scenario above (...always starts AFTER being rolled back off the flatbed and always after that..):

  1. Blocked purge air line
  2. Canister is saturated
  3. Shut-off/purge valve has failed
  4. Regeneration valve near the intake manifold (issue with hot engine at time of fueling)
  5. Activated charcoal filter shutoff valve is plugged/stuck in closed state
  6. Flow resistance of the activated charcoal filter is too high (filter deformed/plugged)
  7. Pressure sensor closes incorrectly (polarity reversal)

I realize that there's a bit of redundancy above. Related, I already replaced the vent value on the filler neck.

Doesn't seem right that all it needs is to be towed somewhere, like home, and then it works fine. BTW, yes, I have the 100 plan with AAA :-) (that should have come with the car).

Thanks for any help.

TJ

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In between fuelling events do the following: Open the fuel cap and poke something (piece of tubing) into the filler hole to open the flap. Take it out and close the cap. See if this procedure replicates the problem. If it does, it might help with isolating the problem.

Am I right in thinking that these cars will not start if the fuel cap or the internal flap is open?

H

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In between fuelling events do the following: Open the fuel cap and poke something (piece of tubing) into the filler hole to open the flap. Take it out and close the cap. See if this procedure replicates the problem. If it does, it might help with isolating the problem.

Am I right in thinking that these cars will not start if the fuel cap or the internal flap is open?

H

Some of the early Boxsters suffered from fueling issues caused by the flap problem, which was often cured by checking a fuse (the number of which escapes me at the moment). These problems have also been traced to EVAP valve problems as well.

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Take a look at this. If the MAF values are low, then its a very good chance its the valve. Pinch off the evap line at the throttle body and if the MAF values go up, I would definitely statrt with the valve..

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/50264-success-finally-fixed-hard-start-while-hot-fueling-issues.html

Edited by san rensho

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Thanks everyone for your responses. What a pain in the arse. It's at the Porsche dealership and the mechanic believes it's the Valve under the manifold which San Rensho and UabChris pointed out.. I've had the issues with the flap/magnet before but that's when the connector became disconnected from the filler neck so in this case the fuel spit back out at you because the flap didn't open. Unfortunately for me when I replaced the fuel tank vent value up on the filler neck trying to fix the 'car won't start after fueling problem' I didn't know that the connector which mounts on the filler neck and activated by the flap opening was not connected. I saw it dangling but didn't know what it was or where it connected so, I had multiple problems going on. But as Chris pointed out with his issue it appears that the 'Regeneration valve' (AKA: The Evap Solenoid Valve, AKA: The Evap Valve etc.) appears to be the problem. I'm gonna let the Porsche guy put it in though...he's telling me $650 but don't know if that includes the $100-$150 valve. I bought the car for the wife to play with as I have an older Vette '98 which fits my big frame. TJ

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