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Are these shims re-usable? Had to use a blade to get them off the brake pad, had some sort of glue in the back. Would that be the anti squeal paste?

Thanks

post-15979-0-19223400-1399226473_thumb.j

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Yes they are if they look undamaged. You can use anti squeal paste as you suggest or just put them back in as is which is what I did and have not noticed any squealing.

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One of the caliper holding bolts is !!!!!!!EXTREMELY!!!!!! hard, afraid may strip the head. Already soaked with penetrating oil. Any suggestions?

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Use kroil or at least PB blaster. Where do you put the oil? The bolt threads into the wheel carrier so the threads that engaged are pretty deep beyond the brake caliper. If you only put oil on the bolt head, the oil may not even reach the threads. Maybe try to put the oil between the caliper and the wheel carrier hoping it will creep to the threads?

Also use a quality 1/2" socket bit such as Snapon. They bite better and will give you all the torque you need.

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Btw, new bolts are recommended by Porsche as these are one-time use bolts.

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Thanks.

Did put penetrating oil, in fact PB Blaster, at the head and as you mentioned between the caliper and the wheel carrier. I'm letting it soak overnight.

"new bolts are recommended by Porsche as these are one-time use bolts" Meaning to replace the bolts with new ones?

​I've been using a Craftman 10mm socket bit and a break bar, 24" long.

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Thanks.

Did put penetrating oil, in fact PB Blaster, at the head and as you mentioned between the caliper and the wheel carrier. I'm letting it soak overnight.

"new bolts are recommended by Porsche as these are one-time use bolts" Meaning to replace the bolts with new ones?

​I've been using a Craftman 10mm socket bit and a break bar, 24" long.

Yes, replace the bolts with new ones.

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One additional way to get bolts to break free is to give them several good whacks with a hammer. Sometimes you can upset the bolts by doing this.

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Whacks... no cigar, stripped the bolt. Will be welding a bolt on the bolt. Can't think of anything else. Getting new caliper bolts for each caliper and getting anti seize grease.

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Whacks... no cigar, stripped the bolt. Will be welding a bolt on the bolt. Can't think of anything else. Getting new caliper bolts for each caliper and getting anti seize grease.

May I suggest hi-temperature anti-seize.

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Whacks... no cigar, stripped the bolt. Will be welding a bolt on the bolt. Can't think of anything else. Getting new caliper bolts for each caliper and getting anti seize grease.

May I suggest hi-temperature anti-seize.

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Would a 1600 degrees seize high temp grease suffice?

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More than good enough. I don't think you'll ever see 1600F at the thread of the bolt with the massive metal piece around it.

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Whacks... no cigar, stripped the bolt. Will be welding a bolt on the bolt. Can't think of anything else. Getting new caliper bolts for each caliper and getting anti seize grease.

May I suggest hi-temperature anti-seize.

Hi Loren

Just curious, is this where Optimol HT comes in?

Also, I am looking to get some optimol TA. Can you also suggest the 'suite' of loctites (numbers) and when / when not to use them?

Thanks in advance

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I'm tackling my brakes for the first time today: new rotors, pads and brakelines. Car is a 99 C2 and I'm assuming may have the original rotors so I may be looking at some difficult caliper bolts as well although I think this has always been a Cali car that's been driven little in the rain/snow. I'm putting sebro sport rotors and PFC pads on since I am tracking the car a lot. My question is in regards to the shims and brake line replacement. In reading about doing this work, watching the DIY vids etc the shims seem to be a hit and miss deal. Do I need them? What about anti squeal paste do I need that?

As far as the brakelines go I've got the motive bleeder and I'm going to replace the existing fluid with Motul 600 when the job is done. Should I replace the lines before I change rotors/pads or after? Is there any benefit or detriment to do the lines first and obviously have some air in the system while changing the pads? I've got the flare nut wrench for that job, new caliper bolts etc. no shims or paste though.

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In reading about doing this work, watching the DIY vids etc the shims seem to be a hit and miss deal. Do I need them? What about anti squeal paste do I need that?

I used new shims where I had them and re-used old ones where I didn't (only had new ones for one side...) I did not use any kind of adhesive on the re-used ones and have found that I have very minor squeaks - not enough to bother me. My local shop told me that for track cars, they do not bother with the shims. Note that I did not replace the rotors and I used Textar pads, so you may experience something else with different pads.

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Thanks for the info. When I pulled everything apart I found I also had Textar pads with no shims. My brakes weren't noisy with that set up and after researching things more I found most people were saying the same as you, don't bother with shims on a car that's going to be tracked a lot. Things came apart easily, fronts are done, rears tomorrow AM.

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