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So for my car , 996 C2 , 2003 with 70 TMiles and M030 suspension .
Im currently in process of purchasing several parts for suspension refresh , so to say .
Whole process came to a corner , left or right , from perspective of refreshing it since rear shock absorbers , i have planned to purchase are not available , anywhere .
At least not for reasonable/decent price
Plan is to refresh my stock M030 shocks , front and rear , where Bilstein B4 is standard which came with car .
Now , i have received front shocks but rear ones are not available and supplier does not know when they will be available .
I could not find them online , also , not a single supplier have them on stock, so only option , order them , pay them and wait for Bilstein to make them and deliver ..
Development of situation is is that my supplier have offered me Bilstein B8 as option , more or less same price as B4 .
Now, guys ,..
As part of refreshment i have bought several additional parts, which are part of suspension and fit B4 setup, for all 4 corners..
hexagon nut M 10
additional spring - bump stop
So to say rubbers and plastics ..
Springs i plan to keep , so no new springs planned ..
Will all those part be usable with B8 shocks , so plug and play .
What will be height difference , is B8 height adjustable or height is same as M030
WIll B8 shocks be delivered with installation manual
I have read recent article , it seams, came in right moment for me 🙂
So positive opinion on Bilstein B8 , which is ok , but im not worried about B8 on German Autobahn , my worry is as i wrote , will this be plug and play considering replacement of current ROW M030
or something needs to be bought specifically beside refreshment parts i have already bought .
Have some experience with wrenching around , front shock mount , Wheel bearing , basic service , sparks, mufflers , ignition Switch , etc ..
But few additional thingies and advises as additional knowledge is always welcomed .
Thank you very much guys ..
My front wheel was making a rattling noise for about the last week, and this morning as I drove out of my driveway and turned the wheel, I could hear a loud popping noise coming from my wheel whenever I turned. My best guess is that I drove over a pothole and the control arm / bushing moved out of place. Would this be covered under the OE warranty? Or should I take it to a mechanic?
Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!
I am completely flummoxed by this noise I am getting in my 2004 Turbo Cab. A couple nights ago while driving home with the top down, I noticed a rattle different from the normal sound of the motor and not accelerating/decelerating with changes in engine RPM. It occurred at 1800-2000 rpm and was most noticeable when decelerating in 2nd gear in my neighborhood at slow speeds (~20MPH)... with a helper on the throttle and the engine compartment open, it sounds like it is coming from the right side-top of the engine, around the Hydraulic reservoir. Putting a spanner/wrench on the component and up to the temple seems to have confirmed this as the source. I checked my manual and the Pentosin level (mid range on the HOT side of the dipstick at operating temp) I realize that Porsche recommends checking at 20C but I live in Texas now and that won't happen until November. Just out of curiosity I looked at the clutch reservoir up front and after removing the gooey trim cover, found it leaking (Seeping) from the recently replaced cap and appearing to be overfilled. The car has never really been operated in the 8 years I have had it in particularly high average temperatures, so I am hoping that the front is thermal expansion. Any thoughts on this matter are greatly appreciated... Loren? What Say You??
Thanks in advance,
I recently did a suspension overhaul when I replaced my inner CV joints out of necessity. Problem I am having is they cannot align it properly. Because of the lowered suspension and change in geometry the rear toe in is more than it should be. I have ordered a pair of rear control arms from TRS to allow for adjusting toe, hopefully. So now I am looking to replace the Meghan racing tie rods with something that will allow for greater adjustment for proper alignment of the front end. Does anyone have an experience/insight into this type of setup for the street? Can anyone recommend outer tie rods? Will stock factory ones work?
List of what was replaced:
All wheel bearings with *** units repacked with Hi Temp synthetic grease
All 4 struts/shocks with Bilstein B8's along with upper bearings/caps, bump stops, dust boots
All 4 springs with H&R 29779 Lowering springs (Blue)
All 4 lower coffin bars/ball joints with Meyle units
2 rear track arms with units from Vertex auto.
2 rear control arm/ball joint Meyle units.
2 front track arms not sure if Meyle or vertex auto.
2 Inner tie rods
2 outer tie rods with Meghan racing units, adjustable blue color
4 Drop links with Tarrett adjustable units
Eibach 26mm front swaybar along with bushings
factory 19.6 rear swaybar along with bushings