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By Michael hurta
Hi - 2002 996: Scoured the lists but can't find this particular cluster problem anywhere. In short, my salvage cluster shows a list of errors on start up but my original was fine.... Here's the details. My current cluster shows an intermittent airbag failure warning on the led screen followed by the idiot light. It usually occurs at start up, clears at the stalk and the idiot light remains on, but flickers on occasion. My mechanic had ruled out everything he could related to the airbag warnings and since he didn't have a spare cluster, couldn't swap to test for that. I personally purchased a salvage cluster, removed the battery terminals, installed it and it came to life (I'm also having to buy replacement connector housings because mine disintegrated). The problem is the info screen pretty much scrolled through a variety of issues like oil pressure feedback, temp feedback, fuel feedback, etc. The oil pressure gage was also unresponsive. I expected the odometer to be wrong, but didn't expect all the errors. I also started the car and while it ran, it did run rough, sputtered a bit. Do I have a bad salvaged cluster? Does the cluster need to be programmed (beside the odometer)?
By Kevin Bryck
Welcome everyone to another installment highlighting the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts!
Have both 17" and 18" wheels and have recently lost the metal Center Cap logo medallion off of one wheel of each size.
While removing the other center caps every remaining medallion fell right off in my hand.
Metal medallion secured with a random dab of some type of adhesive.
We have reached the end of lifespan of whatever adhesive the Center Cap supplier used to keep precious colored metal medallions stuck to those cheap plastic caps.
Anyone know how to remove old adhesive?
Anyone have any idea what adhesive to replace it with?
Anyone know how much the Porsche/Piech families made selling replacement center caps last year?
Remember when paying through the nose for your precious replacement Center Caps that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia.
By Kevin Bryck
Okay this is REALLY specific.
The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Missing cable location
Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
I've had a spoiler warning lamp on since I bought my 1998 996 convertible a few years ago. As an electronics engineer, I decided I may be able to tackle this issue myself. Before starting, I have read numerous previous posts regarding this issue, and what the fixed-wing bypass harness (996 612 070 51) does.
When the rear spoiler is elevated, I'm getting zero Ohms between the Grey/Brown (A2) wire and the Brown (A5) wire, as expected. This becomes open circuit when the lid is lowered. There is then zero Ohms between the Brown (A5) and the Green/Grey (A4) wires, again as expected! The switching of the brake lights works normally too, but still the warning light persists.
I am wondering if there could be a corroded plug/socket further forward from the rear of the car because the one at the back is very clean and the microswitch states are normal in both positions. I'm not sure if this is a common fault, but I'm guessing it probably isn't as I can't find anything online. One thing I have noticed is that although the manual up/down wing rocker switch works, I have to keep is pressed down until the wing is down. When I try to elevate the wing manually, the switch triggers the latching function of the relays, but when the spoiler is fully up, I can still hear the motor continuing to turn and the gears slipping inside the rear mechanism. The gears will eventually strip and I'll end up with a bigger problem, so any thought on this nuance would be greatly appreciated.