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boxster_nut

aftermarket oil filter recommendations

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Recommendations for good quality after market oil filter for 1997 boxster?

 

 

I have ready access to: Fram, Mann, Purelator,

 

Do I need to get any additional parts for the DIY oil change? (asside from the oil)

e.g. orings, brass washers, etc...

 

Thanks

John

 

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If you have the standard Porsche cartridge filter, and want to switch to a spin on filter you will need an adapter. LN engineering sells one, that's what I use on my 04, with the recommended NAPA Gold 1042.

It is recommended to change the washer on the oil drain plug.

Pelican parts sells everything you'd need, and has a DIY section 101projects.com/boxster/index.htm

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IIUC the OEM filter goes back and forth from Mahle to Hengst.  I bought a Mann filter to but didn't like the way it was designed to fit.

 

You may want to get a spare drain plug to keep on hand as they are driven by a small hex (Allen) wrench and tend to get buggered up.

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If you are running the cartridge type, you may want to pick up an O-ring for the canister and the correct size tool for removing the canister.  Or you can do what Plastikos suggested and switch over the the LN Engineering spin on filter.  

 

If you do switch to the spin on filter, be sure to purchase a filter can opener so you can inspect the filter element.  I purchased the Proform Oil Filter Cutter see link...

 

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66490?seid=srese1&gclid=CNiRop7Ror8CFUYA7AodIG4Axw

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If you are running the cartridge type, you may want to pick up an O-ring for the canister and the correct size tool for removing the canister.  Or you can do what Plastikos suggested and switch over the the LN Engineering spin on filter.  

 

If you do switch to the spin on filter, be sure to purchase a filter can opener so you can inspect the filter element.  I purchased the Proform Oil Filter Cutter see link...

 

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66490?seid=srese1&gclid=CNiRop7Ror8CFUYA7AodIG4Axw

Thanks for all the replies.  Found a Mahle at a local store so I'll go with that since it is OEM.  While I like the spin on conversion, the extra $s of the conversion kit is not really saving me anything, plus having to get a can opener to inspect the filter makes no sense since the oem cartridge arrangement already allows for inspection.....the dreaded IMS bearing fail....(don't think that is applicable to 1997s tho....)

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If you are running the cartridge type, you may want to pick up an O-ring for the canister and the correct size tool for removing the canister.  Or you can do what Plastikos suggested and switch over the the LN Engineering spin on filter.  

 

If you do switch to the spin on filter, be sure to purchase a filter can opener so you can inspect the filter element.  I purchased the Proform Oil Filter Cutter see link...

 

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66490?seid=srese1&gclid=CNiRop7Ror8CFUYA7AodIG4Axw

Thanks for all the replies.  Found a Mahle at a local store so I'll go with that since it is OEM.  While I like the spin on conversion, the extra $s of the conversion kit is not really saving me anything, plus having to get a can opener to inspect the filter makes no sense since the oem cartridge arrangement already allows for inspection.....the dreaded IMS bearing fail....(don't think that is applicable to 1997s tho....)

 

 

The spin on option starts to make a lot more sense when you realize how prone these cars are to having the bypass valve in the bottom of the canister stick open and pass totally unfiltered oil back into the engine.  The spin on will not permit that as it is a "full flow" design which filters all the oil all of the time.

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The spin on option starts to make a lot more sense when you realize how prone these cars are to having the bypass valve in the bottom of the canister stick open and pass totally unfiltered oil back into the engine.  The spin on will not permit that as it is a "full flow" design which filters all the oil all of the time.

 

 

Ohhh, I didn't know that...Is this something that happens 'often'?  Should this be a maintenance item?  My boxster has 30K miles on it...

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The spin on option starts to make a lot more sense when you realize how prone these cars are to having the bypass valve in the bottom of the canister stick open and pass totally unfiltered oil back into the engine.  The spin on will not permit that as it is a "full flow" design which filters all the oil all of the time.

 

 

Ohhh, I didn't know that...Is this something that happens 'often'?  Should this be a maintenance item?  My boxster has 30K miles on it...

 

 

In a word, yes.  Worst part about it is that you don't know it is happening until you take the filter off and look at the valve (in is in the bottom of the plastic housing) and see it is stuck open.  Most people don't do this, as they don't even know it is there, or for how long it has been allowing unfiltered oil to circulate.  The valve itself is a plastic device with a spring to operate it, and it sits in the very bottom of the OEM plastic housing.  When the valve sticks, you typically end up buy a new housing, which ain't cheap either, only to have the new one eventually do the same thing.

 

We became aware of the problem because we do a fair number of oil changes and always clean out and check the plastic housing for cracks, etc.

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The spin on filters have a bypass valve too.  But you get a NEW one each time you discard the old filter and spin on a new filter.  The bypass valve on the plastic shell is re-used for years and maybe decades, allowing time for the valve to fail.

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The spin on filters have a bypass valve too.  But you get a NEW one each time you discard the old filter and spin on a new filter.  The bypass valve on the plastic shell is re-used for years and maybe decades, allowing time for the valve to fail.

 

Not the type used by the LN adaptor (Wix/NAPA Gold), they are "full flow", which means no internal bypass valve is in the filter, so you get 100% filtration at all times.

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Is it obvious if it's stuck open because i didnt notice anything when i the canister off on my car

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Is it obvious if it's stuck open because i didnt notice anything when i the canister off on my car

 

Not really, you have to look at it, often with small mirror stuck down inside the canister.

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Is it obvious if it's stuck open because i didnt notice anything when i the canister off on my car

 

Not really, you have to look at it, often with small mirror stuck down inside the canister.

 

[flame_on]  Ok, well being an engineer, I just have to ask....."And what problem were they trying to 'fix' that the full flow  spin on filters didn't have?"   This sort of engineering drives me nuts.....and on a 55K car no less....

[/flame_on]  grrrrrrr

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Is it obvious if it's stuck open because i didnt notice anything when i the canister off on my car

 

Not really, you have to look at it, often with small mirror stuck down inside the canister.

 

[flame_on]  Ok, well being an engineer, I just have to ask....."And what problem were they trying to 'fix' that the full flow  spin on filters didn't have?"   This sort of engineering drives me nuts.....and on a 55K car no less....

[/flame_on]  grrrrrrr

 

 

Some like to say that the cartridge style filter is more recyclable than the spin on, but that is not really true because the spin on units can also be recycled as well, you are just recovering two streams (media and metal case) rather than one with the cartridge type.

 

I think the bigger issue here is that these engine's are very debris sensitive, and the spin on offers both finer media and full flow protection.  A secondary advantage of the spin on is that it can also easily run a FilterMag unit, which turns the entire metal housing into a magnet to trap ferrous debris, including the stuff so small that it would normally pass through the filter itself.

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Hello JFP, for my next oil change I've been looking to buy a spin oil filter adaptor for my Boxster 2.5L 1998 and locally I can have the Mobil M1-107 filter also recommended by LN, is that a good match? and if I understand it well, it will improve oil filtration, wich is good for the engine. I've allready replaced the oil plug with a magnetic one to inspect for debris.

Thanks in advance for your (always very good!) advise.

Fermin

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Hello JFP, for my next oil change I've been looking to buy a spin oil filter adaptor for my Boxster 2.5L 1998 and locally I can have the Mobil M1-107 filter also recommended by LN, is that a good match? and if I understand it well, it will improve oil filtration, wich is good for the engine. I've allready replaced the oil plug with a magnetic one to inspect for debris.

Thanks in advance for your (always very good!) advise.

Fermin

 

The Mobil filter is a pretty good filter.  Our personal favorites are the Wix/Napa Gold 51042XP, which you can usually get for less money as well.  I think Amazon carries them, as well as many auto parts outlets.  If you go to this site (http://www.wixfilters.com/WhereToBuy.aspx?ZipCode=) and enter your postal code, they will give you info on who sells Wix in your area.

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Hello JFP, for my next oil change I've been looking to buy a spin oil filter adaptor for my Boxster 2.5L 1998 and locally I can have the Mobil M1-107 filter also recommended by LN, is that a good match? and if I understand it well, it will improve oil filtration, wich is good for the engine. I've allready replaced the oil plug with a magnetic one to inspect for debris.

Thanks in advance for your (always very good!) advise.

Fermin

 

The Mobil filter is a pretty good filter.  Our personal favorites are the Wix/Napa Gold 51042XP, which you can usually get for less money as well.  I think Amazon carries them, as well as many auto parts outlets.  If you go to this site (http://www.wixfilters.com/WhereToBuy.aspx?ZipCode=) and enter your postal code, they will give you info on who sells Wix in your area.

 

Thank you JFP

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If you have the standard Porsche cartridge filter, and want to switch to a spin on filter you will need an adapter. LN engineering sells one, that's what I use on my 04, with the recommended NAPA Gold 1042.

It is recommended to change the washer on the oil drain plug.

Pelican parts sells everything you'd need, and has a DIY section 101projects.com/boxster/index.htm

I understand the Napa Gold filter is made by Wix -try the 51042.

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If you have the standard Porsche cartridge filter, and want to switch to a spin on filter you will need an adapter. LN engineering sells one, that's what I use on my 04, with the recommended NAPA Gold 1042.

It is recommended to change the washer on the oil drain plug.

Pelican parts sells everything you'd need, and has a DIY section 101projects.com/boxster/index.htm

I understand the Napa Gold filter is made by Wix -try the 51042.

 

 

 

There are two, the 51042 has treated media, the 51042XP is a full synthetic media supported by a wire cage and offers finer filtration pores and a larger debris holding rating than the 51042.

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I had researched this and was surprised to find the XP  inferior on paper (no pun)in one regard.

The problem with the XP is that it's stats do not look so good compared to the regular paper element Wix 51042. Look at the Beta ratio for the two filters on the Wix site.

The 1042 has a Beta of 2/20=6/20 -this means 50% efficient @ 6microns and 95% at 20

The 1042XP is only B2=20 -this means 50% @20 - so by comparison it is only a rock filter !

I am not a tribologist so must leave others to interpret.There is some suspicion that um numbers are not reliable for Wix. So I would rather rely on JFP's experience

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45559-ln-engineering-spin-on-oil-filter-adapter/

If you are a geek on this just research on bobistheoilguy- there are some actual tribologists there.They seem to like Fleetguard -for the accuracy of their tech data.

Fleetguard LF796 may be a possibility?

http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/FLEETGUARD/LF796

 

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I had researched this and was surprised to find the XP  inferior on paper (no pun)in one regard.

The problem with the XP is that it's stats do not look so good compared to the regular paper element Wix 51042. Look at the Beta ratio for the two filters on the Wix site.

The 1042 has a Beta of 2/20=6/20 -this means 50% efficient @ 6microns and 95% at 20

The 1042XP is only B2=20 -this means 50% @20 - so by comparison it is only a rock filter !

I am not a tribologist so must leave others to interpret.There is some suspicion that um numbers are not reliable for Wix. So I would rather rely on JFP's experience

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45559-ln-engineering-spin-on-oil-filter-adapter/

If you are a geek on this just research on bobistheoilguy- there are some actual tribologists there.They seem to like Fleetguard -for the accuracy of their tech data.

Fleetguard LF796 may be a possibility?

http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/FLEETGUARD/LF796

 

 

 

I think you will find that Wix, for some reason, reports Beta values differently on their synthetic media filters, a point which has been endlessly debated on the BIOTOG website.

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The 1042 has a Beta of 2/20=6/20 -this means 50% efficient @ 6microns and 95% at 20

The 1042XP is only B2=20 -this means 50% @ 20 - so by comparison it is only a rock filter !

 

I've seen this misinterpretation on several forums and it's a common mistake.

The "B2=20" single micron format reads differently than the multi-micron formats listed for standard filters (values are reversed). What it actually means is:

"B2=20" -> "95% efficiency @ 2 microns"

"2" = micron size & "20" = filtration ratio

If you don't believe me, listen to the folks at Cummins filtration:

"A Beta Ratio may be given for a filter as B10=50. This simply means that the Beta Ratio for 10 microns equals a ration of 50."

That's from a Cummins technical training flyer dedicated to filter beta ratios, there's even a quiz question about this (#2). Feel free to take a look... Cummins Filtration Training Flyer

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The 1042 has a Beta of 2/20=6/20 -this means 50% efficient @ 6microns and 95% at 20

The 1042XP is only B2=20 -this means 50% @ 20 - so by comparison it is only a rock filter !

 

I've seen this misinterpretation on several forums and it's a common mistake.

The "B2=20" single micron format reads differently than the multi-micron formats listed for standard filters (values are reversed). What it actually means is:

"B2=20" -> "95% efficiency @ 2 microns"

"2" = micron size & "20" = filtration ratio

If you don't believe me, listen to the folks at Cummins filtration:

"A Beta Ratio may be given for a filter as B10=50. This simply means that the Beta Ratio for 10 microns equals a ration of 50."

That's from a Cummins technical training flyer dedicated to filter beta ratios, there's even a quiz question about this (#2). Feel free to take a look... Cummins Filtration Training Flyer

 

Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

 

You are correct in your assessment of what the Beta Ratio implies; since that posting two years ago, we have found "beta ratio" to be completely misunderstood by most posters.  From your attachment, the key on how it works is as follows:

 

A Beta Ratio may be given for a filter as B10 = 50.

(Depicted in this way on many filters)

This simply means that the Beta Ratio for 10 micron equals

a ration of 50.

Now divide the ratio, in this case 50 into 100, ie. equals 2.

Subtract the answer, in this case 2 from 100, the answer is 98.

This filter is 98% efficient at removing 10 micron particles.

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