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Emergency. My 04CTT sputters and dies after I start it. Now wtf do I d


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Check the fuel pumps main connector under the car floor, at the level and behind the left wheel arch. There are some overheating problems inside the connector by malfunctioning fuel pumps.

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Change both pumps. Change the fuel filter. Change the fuel regulator.

Disconnect the pump 1 electrical connection from the pump, replace the pump 1 fuse, start her up a few times and see if the fuse blows again with #1 pump disconnected. That should give us a clue to w

For what it's worth. I had similar symptoms with no codes. Disconnected both MAFS (it did then throw two codes) and the car ran fine. Cleaned both MAFS, reconnected and all was well.   Cheers!

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Hard to tell with any certainty, not usually but it can be. It's a small effort to check the connector, just follow the wiring comming from the pump units.

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P1431

P0230

P0700

I actually was able to get the car to start and run terribly rough with the primary circuit 15 amp fuse installed, which never worked after these symptoms started. Car had no power although it barely idled. I couldn't get it to move, throttle was unresponsive.

post-18985-0-33655700-1408051546_thumb.j

Edited by ALEV8
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Then.... figure out why Sonnen sent me a 90 black degree adapter for one of the new style pumps that I didn't need as well as a weird really narrow straw on a flexible line coming from the fuel filter flange which had a fitting sort of like a skirt around it, but didn't snap into anything, although the pass side fuel pump did have a hole to accept it, and that's where i installed it.

Because they're a good parts house. The angled adaptor is for one of the hoses going to the fuel filter (I believe - could be the pressure regulator) that bent at an odd angle and eventually failed or kinked without the right angle adaptor.

 

You might search around a bit for a current tech document explaining where the adapter belongs.

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Will do Don. Any other thoughts?

I was going to PM you for procedures / ideas.

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Harbor Freight has one for around $35 that is quite good actually.  Knowing that you have the correct fuel pressure and that the system maintains pressure when shut down is step #1. Bad MAF's will not cause fuses for the fuel pumps to blow. One has to look at the systems logically, not just throw parts at it (although that's what Porsche eventually did with mine - replaced EVERYTHING in the fuel supply system. Last thing they replaced was the problem of course..)

 

There are several check valves in the system, some undocumented (one in the fuel filter isn't listed anywhere..)

 

If you PM me your email address I'll send along some documentation I tracked down when I had fuel problems with my P!G - there is a reference in them to the black angle-pipe..

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Update :

I replaced the primary fuse. And then opened the cover to the primary pump a minute ago. I made sure the electrical connector was securely connected by pressing down on it. Put the key in and car started and ran perfectly. Drove about a mile without issue. Restarted car without issue while out. Came home to button everything back up. Starting again is a bit balky but everything runs great. WTF? I do recall breaking the security clip on the primary pump electrical connection/weatherpack plug. Those connectors can be replaced fairly easily if I can get one.

So basically I did nothing different except press down on that electrical connection and everything operates as it should but why is there some difficulty starting? Could be the crimped tube that the adapter solves....

post-18985-0-63231600-1408145122_thumb.j

Edited by ALEV8
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the small adapter (no.10) as I recall if you want to use the old secondary pump

but if you buy both pumps its not needed.

 

your issue was probably the  electrical connection.

 

you can use some silicon or two sided tape to secure it use your imagination .  

and last

fill the tank to the full mark and check if the fuel gauge works correctly .

and no in tank hoses getting in the way of the floating flanges (no. 3 and 4)

Edited by redzero
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if 3/4 then primary pump area 

a hose maybe not allowing the flange to go fully up raise the flange with your hand to fully up position to test.

 

use a zip tie or clip or soothing to secure the hoses far away from the flanges

 

its annoying but you can do it.

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Yes the pass side pump has a zip tie for that reason, holding the lines out of the way. Of course I cut it to make it easier to install.....will silicone grease the connector until new housing and pins arrive.

Edited by ALEV8
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Calling Sunset/Sonnen to order that VAG connector and pins. ECS had the removal tool for $14. Gonna use it on my upcoming 964 project I'm sure. Feeling like ordering the front lower control arms as well and installing them.

Edited by ALEV8
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Well..... I filled up today and we are back to square one sputtering and dying again. This is exactly what happened when I filled the tank full last time. And again a full tank shows only three quarters full so one of the floats must be pinned down.

FML.

What do I do first?

Edited by ALEV8
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I pulled everything apart again and peeked in the primary side. It appears I did have a severely crimped line (which was much smaller in diameter). I installed the angled adapter to that line in order to alleviate the sharp 90 crimp running from pump to fuel pressure regulator. Problem number two is the line running from the pump to the fuel pressure regulator which is larger in diameter continuously blows off its fitting. When you start the car you can literally hear it blow off the fitting with a whoosh sound. When you replace it it does not click and lock in place, it can be pulled off the collared fitting beneath the fuel pressure regulator. That's a new one. Somehow a brand-new hose does not lock in the place, I'm at a loss, and I'm not sure this is something that can be purchased separately, but rather only as part of the primary pump. The last insane thought I had was perhaps this line somehow should run to the secondary pump as it seems awfully long to merely travel from the primary pump to the fuel pressure regulator.

Experts weigh in.

The good news is I can now do this with my eyes closed…

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Sunset can't figure out the VAG connector. Spoke to Sonnen who referred me to the local dealer for parts warranty on the defective coupling on the fuel pump. Local dealer wants $155 diag plus an hour of labor $165 to decide if it's a warranty issue. As I installed it and not Porsche this is all they'll do. I called Sonnen back and asked what I could do. They asked for photos of the non-functioning connector and would decide then exchange the part under warranty.

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  • 6 years later...

Hello everybody.

 

the original post is already old but maybe my current problem is related with this one discussed here.

 

bought a Turbo some weeks ago. Looks very good . Just one problem. 
 

P0230 Code

i though, worst what could be. New fuel pump. But its something else.

like to explain what i found out / what i did.

 

car runs good and i couldnt feel any loss of power

 

Had a emission test to do - failed

code 0230

 

checked the fuse box

Fuse13 was not existing 

Fuse 14 was installed 

car runs only on one pump 

when i put in fuse 14 the car starts to shake and dies after some time

 

checked the relays and replaced them

no change

 

Because i was pointed by the code 0230 to the left / driver side pump i open the tank

fuel tank left side almost empty 

couldnt see any visual problem with the lines. 
closed the tank.

just to check i pull in again fuse 13

car runs. Runs even 2 km to the next gas station

filled up the tank with about 60 Liters

 

started the car

after 100 meters stutter and dead

pulled fuse13

car runs without problem

 

today i have changed the left side / driver side fuel pump. Fuel tank almost empty.

put everything back together 

was hoping everything would be fine

put back fuse 13

car is starting but died after some time 

take out fuse 13 , car runs without problems.

 

any help is very welcome. Dont know what to do now.  Which wiring to check for the problem

 

wondering why one week ago the car was running with both fuses inside until i filled it up

 

sorry for the long story!

 

thank you very much in advance

 

 

 

 

 

 

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P0230 Fuel Pump Relay 1 Output Stage - Open Circuit/Below Limit/Above Limit

 

Possible cause of fault
- Fuse FE14 faulty
- Fuel pump relay faulty
- Open circuit
- Short circuit to B+
- Short circuit to ground
- DME control module faulty

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I have tried a lot today but unfortunately without luck. Can do whatever, fuse number 13 gets always burned.  To much power there. 

Open the plastic cover to get access to the DME. Cleaned the contacts. Without luck

EEC93D32-F412-4A8D-A388-E23FBE3D6F47.jpeg

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