Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Emergency. My 04CTT sputters and dies after I start it. Now wtf do I d


Recommended Posts

Started the vehicle this AM around 10 to leave and the idle starts dropping right away but slowly while in park. Drops really low, then picks back up. Does this a few times while I'm going OH****. Put er in Drive and the idle drops again. It dies. I start it right back up and if I gave it gas same drop then dead. I'm going to test the other fuel pump with fuse on primary pulled.

 

Last week we had humming coming from the fuel pump but it went away. While driving last day or so idle seemed rough.

 

I'll be looking for the tech writeup on the fuel pump tests.

Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Change both pumps. Change the fuel filter. Change the fuel regulator.

Disconnect the pump 1 electrical connection from the pump, replace the pump 1 fuse, start her up a few times and see if the fuse blows again with #1 pump disconnected. That should give us a clue to w

For what it's worth. I had similar symptoms with no codes. Disconnected both MAFS (it did then throw two codes) and the car ran fine. Cleaned both MAFS, reconnected and all was well.   Cheers!

Posted Images

Pulled fuse 14 and turned the car off. Restarted and engine ran great. Drove it to the mechanic. Should I order two fuel pumps or just the primary, and is that L or R? If one goes can the secondary be far behind?

I know I should replace the seals and the fuel filter/flange. What else?

Anyone?

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 pumps

1 flange with filter

2 gaskets

1 flange with regulator

$650 from Sonnen. Done. 124k mi service interval warning as well.

Edited by ALEV8
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Pulled fuse for pump#2 to de pressurize system, and replaced both pumps , pressure regulator and filter flanges and gaskets L&R. Lost pump one fuse so car started fine on pump two. Had maybe an inch of gas on left side of tank and practically a beach in the bottom, wish I could have siphoned that crap out. Went and bought 5 gallons of gas and added that to the freshly sealed system. Later went and bought fuses to replace missing #1 pump fuse. Started car and kinda had to floor it to get the RPMs up, the system flowing and full of gas again, I guess. Parked and locked, keyless entry was acting up and had to manually lock the car. Got up next AM to fill tank and grab a coffee before starting on wife's X5 brake job. Car starts perfectly,perfect acceleration, smooth and vastly improved experience. Reach station and fill it up. I start the car and it sputters and dies exactly as before the pump replacement. Several attempts and zilch. Gas gauge only reads 7/8 full despite purchasing a full tank. I end up pulling the #1 pump fuse AGAIN and car idles rough running on pump two. I then notice that #1 pump fuse has popped! Super weird. I'm pretty sure the instrument cluster display started acting funny and I had a CEL in orange illuminated. Nevertheless it starts on pump two and I head to grab an espresso, then go home.

At this point I'm really unclear what the F happened. EVERYTHING is brand new. Why is that fuse popping and the #1 pump dying? I'm back to square one. What should I do?

Edited by ALEV8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Disconnect the pump 1 electrical connection from the pump, replace the pump 1 fuse, start her up a few times and see if the fuse blows again with #1 pump disconnected.

That should give us a clue to what's going on.

Edited by bigbuzuki
  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll add that the driver-side electrical connection at the flange/pressure regulator I broke the tab off trying to remove it but it securely fits on the plug it's just not locked on with the click tab.

And now that I think about it the fuse might've been a 10 amp and when I replaced it with a 15 amp it's stopped blowing, but the behavior remains of pump one sputters and croaks after a short idle as if I had replaced nothing.

Changed my oil today.

Edited by ALEV8
Link to post
Share on other sites

hi

 

when I changed the pumps on mine  it would die after warm up

 

or randomly sputter and die   no codes

 

they replaced both mafs no issues so far

 

see if you can swap maf with other cayenne for testing or

 

or at least read the maf input ( also other sensors input)

 

Good luck.

Link to post
Share on other sites

For what it's worth. I had similar symptoms with no codes. Disconnected both MAFS (it did then throw two codes) and the car ran fine. Cleaned both MAFS, reconnected and all was well.

 

Cheers!

  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

MAFs for fuel pump etc issues??? Educate me please, thank you.

Actually it really does follow. If your CTT is 10 years old it would be a good idea to clean the throttle body and the MAFS. The MAF sensors  do effect fuel metering in your CTT.

 

Cheers!

  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I will clean them. Does anyone have a DIY on that? I'll check the download section.

I picked up the car from my mechanic today who did not have time to work on it, but he says the starter needs a new cable, and that we dumped another quantity of oil out of the tube behind the driver side intercooler, and this is evidence of needing a turbo replacement or rebuild. Strangely enough the car starts perfectly so I don't know what he's talking about nor have I heard of anyone replacing the starter cable, and the last time the oil accumulated behind that inter cooler in the elbow back in 2011, and we dumped it there was no turbo issue. I feel like this is a car I want to keep and have not heard of turbo issues at all in these cars.

Leakdown test shows fuel pressure is not maintained after shutoff. Immediately drops (should be steady for 10 min).

Just thought I would toss that in there, and make things even more fun.

I'm going to drain the gas tank and double check ALL the connections first.

Then.... figure out why Sonnen sent me a 90 black degree adapter for one of the new style pumps that I didn't need as well as a weird really narrow straw on a flexible line coming from the fuel filter flange which had a fitting sort of like a skirt around it, but didn't snap into anything, although the pass side fuel pump did have a hole to accept it, and that's where i installed it.

WEIRD. Guys weigh in if ya can.

Edited by ALEV8
Link to post
Share on other sites

1-if you replaced both pumps no need to use the adapter

 

take all the hoses and tubes and test for leaks outside of the tank 

 

replace both flanges (regulators ) on top since your there.

 

2-the oil leak could be something simple (oil lines) maybe  .

 

3- what's wrong with the starter first to say the cable needs replacing  .

 

 

 

be patient

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah super weird guys. EVERYTHING is new. Both pumps and flanges. WHY is there not perfect starting? It's just as before the pumps were replaced. I'm running the tank almost empty to investigate again. Is running the tank dry just about, a problem when everything gets buttoned back up....like should I have primed the pump on the driver's side somehow? There was a bit of gas in the passenger side and almost none at all on the driver side. The other weird paranoia I have is somehow parts are incorrect. The new style pumps are different to be sure....I don't know where he is getting the starter cable issue or turbo blow-by collecting in that elbow other than it's 8 hours of labor to replace the starter. Minus one fuel pump it's a tad harder to start the car some times. I have not read about ANY turbos going on any forums in our cars. Anyone?

Edited by ALEV8
Link to post
Share on other sites

When I saw him scan the car all I saw was a vacuum leak fault. When the CTT died the very first time AFTER replacing everything (the following day when refueling) I got a CEL. Pulled fuse on pump 1 to start it and get to mechanic. If I tried to start with pump 1 then it would die and CEL.

Now, the starting is balky using pump 2. Car will start and then sputters and dies, then second attempt car will start, and idle slowly picks up and continues running.

Link to post
Share on other sites

connect all fuses and check the {pumps relays fuse box close to brake master cylinder} check all wiring

run both pumps .

 

is fuel pressure reading is steady at idle ? 

 

also is it steady at for example 2000 rpm ?

 

test Thorley to rule out fuel related issues then

 

post any new fault codes here

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK I will double check electrical connections at flange of course and test the relay for continuity. My mech has fuel pressure gauges and the scanner so I can visit him tomorrow.

Edited by ALEV8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Graeme Tate
      I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me.

      When I picked up the car from Porsche  it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at the end of the road and although I filled it up it  the engine warning light remained on I assumed this was just fuel related and drove home with it on and reset it when I got home.
      Wind on a few weeks and the engine light came back on and gave me a camshaft position sensor error p0016 so I sent the car to my local Porsche mechanic who changed out the sensor and did a full service on the car including plugs filter oil etc etc. All this time the car has been running fine but as I wanted the sensor light out it was changed. However after changing it out the light came back on almost straight away. The car has been a bit sluggish to start sometimes and sometimes on pulling away from a stop has also been hesitant. 
      This was about 3-4 weeks ago and now it is worse again, at tickover it’s noisy, it doesn’t like acceleration and is running really rough although if you are going over 50mph it doesn’t have a problem and seems to run fine. The EML is now flashing rather than being a solid light. I attach a video of it running.
      Any thoughts would be a help before I decide to get it hauled back across again 



      Sent from my iPhone
    • By Pxwguad
      Hi Guys, I am a proud owner of a 2010 Porsche Cayenne Base model and I have been having a intermittent Engine hesitation issue. the following is a detailed issue of whats been happening, any suggestions that would help resolve this is appreciated.
       
      About a month ago I was coming back from Roosevelt lake ,AZ which is about 3 hours from Tucson, it was a hot day 113deg, I was already in town and the gas gauge read about 1/8 of a tank and I was starting to move from a light when all of the sudden it felt like the engine stalled and came back on for a second then it did it again and my CEL came on.
       
      I thought maybe my gauge was off and i was running out of fuel so i found the nearest gas station and filled up, I drove home and connected my car to my Icarsoft Computer and it was showing error P2293 Rail Pressure Control, I cleared the error and decided I would drive the car and see if it would happened again, Two months and hundreds of miles of mixed city and highway driving went by without a hitch.
       
      Last week I had to go to LA so I packed up the car (4 passengers and luggage) and headed out. About two hours in on I8 right before Yuma it was 114 degrees outside and  I was cruising at about 85 MPH, the gas gauge read about 5/8 of a tank all oil and coolant temps were normal when all of the sudden the hesitation came back, it would run normal then hiccup then run normal, ect.. and the CEL came back on, this went on for about 20 minutes but I was still able to maintain 80-85 MPH.
       
      After 20 minutes of this we decided to pull into a gas station and fill the tank with gas to see if anything would change and wouldn't you know that after filling up and setting off again over the mountain pass towards San Diego the car ran without a hitch, we averaged 77 MPH all the way to LA, but we would stop to fill up whenever the gauge read 5/8. after a couple of hours the CEL turned off on its own.
       
      On our way back to Tucson we decided to fill up in San Diego and not fill up until it started to act up, and to my surprise the car once more ran flawlessly.
       
      We didn't fill up until the gas low warning chime came on in Marana, AZ. The highest temperature this day was 104 deg. We filled the tank and made it home without incident. The next day I connected my car to my Icarsoft computer and it was showing the following error codes: P2293 Rail Pressure control, P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected, P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected, P0303 cylinder 3 misfire detected.
       
      Could this be ambient temperature related? Vapor lock at high ambient temps? If it was the fuel pumps you think it would have failed again on the way back, right?
      This has to be happening to other people with 2007-2010 Cayenne Base models. Any input will help.
       
      Thanks in Advance.
       
      Sincerely;
      Paul
    • By longrowe
      I have a 1998, ROW C2. Over the past two weeks I have noticed that the fuel gauge is not reading correctly. The gauge will read high (3/4) but as I drive, the gauge will slowly drop to the correct reading over about 15 minutes. As the car sits, either at work for the day or in the garage overnight, when I go to start the car, the gauge will read over 1/4 tank higher than when I shut it off. Then, as I drive, it will drop to where I think it should be (or remember where it should be). I plan to pull the sender this weekend and check the connections, but I don't think it is the float as why would it rise while the car is turned off? Is it possible to troubleshoot the cluster gauge? I have a Durametric so I will attempt the fuel level calibration when I have pumped down the tank. Or am I just fooling myself and the gauge is bad?
    • By dyerhaus
      I’m having a weird ‘fuel thing’ with my 2001 Porsche 911… So, I’ve been thinking it gets terrible gas mileage, compared to my 986 Boxster. I expected slightly less, but, it seems pretty bad. Now, I can’t help but wonder if there’s actually something amiss about it.
       
      When I fill the tank completely—and I mean ‘topping it off’ to get every last drop in, my fuel gauge usually looks like this (see the first picture, 01).
       
      That picture was taken immediately after starting the car after filling up the tank (I was still at the pump). There have been occasions where the needle has gone all the way to just slightly past the 4/4 mark (just like the Boxster always does), but it usually lands below as seen in the photo.
       
      However, today I was down to the warning light coming on telling me I’m low on gas. I stopped to fill it up and it only took about $30 worth. That’s odd, with gas prices here and filling up an almost empty tank, that should have been between $44 and $48 (that's what the Boxster runs). I tried to top it off but it wouldn’t take any more, as if the tank was full.
       
      So, I got in the car and started it, and (just like before) this picture was taken immediately after starting the car after filling up the tank (I was still at the pump) - (see the second picture, 02).
       
      Just barely over half a thank.
       
      Any idea what could be going on with this?


    • By SpawnyWhippet
      I  have a 2009 997.2 PDK Carrera 2 and am getting a loss of power and this error code:
      2510: Fuel high-pressure control - adaptation. Value below lower limit value
        I believe this means my HPFP is dead and am looking for the workshop procedure for replacing the high pressure fuel pump HPFP. I have looked far and wide for a DIY tutorial on this, but found nothing. My local stealership will do the work for $900 labor plus parts. I have sourced the pump for $850 and want to do the work myself. The pump looks readily accessible at the back right end of the engine, facing the rear bumper.
      I am happy to write this up as a DIY with pics if someone can forward me the workshop manual pages or procedure?

  • RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.