Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know how difficult it is to replace the convertible top drain pan hose?  I will be replacing the drain pan also.  Can you see the hose and how to install it after the drain pan is removed? Can the hose be removed and reinstalled from above, or do you you also need access from under the car?  Where is the drain hose clamp located?  Is it likely to need replacement also?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a straightforward repair but you will have to remove the convertible top and frame to get proper access to remove the drain tray.

 

Once you remove the drain tray, you will see a small teacup-like shaped "funnel" to which the drain hose is attached.  You will have to have access from the bottom as well so that you can properly route the new hose.

 

I'm wondering how you determined that you need a new drain hose.  If there is a leak in that area, it's most often caused by a crack in the "teacup" or the hose has become detached from it.

 

Regards, Maurice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The pushrod ball broke, the push rod bent and eventually became lodged in the drain hole, tearing the drain tray and crushing the drain tube cup.  I have not removed the drain tray yet, but this appears to be the case based on what I feel by sticking my finger in the drain hole.  It appears that the cup is part of the drain tube part #98756173400. Do you agree that the cup is a part of the drain hose part #98756173400 ?   Maybe they are both included in the part number, but I could just replace the teacup?  Can you see the drain hose clamp ( part #99950755101 ) from above?

 

Thanks for your reply!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cup and drain tube are one piece and you are better off replacing the entire part rather than just replacing the teacup.

 

The part number that you have listed is for the passenger side, so make sure that is the side that you need.

 

There probably won't be a need to replace the clamps that hold the tube in place but they are cheap enough to buy so that you can have them on hand.  The parts diagram shows that there are 4 needed.  Not sure is that is two for each side.

 

You should also probably remove the forward piece of the rear wheel well liner so that you can see where the drain hose exits.

 

Regards, Maurice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By emperorphobos
      So, in the process of getting ready for the summer at NE, I tried two months ago to open my convertible (C4-99). The convertible stuck at 2/3 and didn't go back. I got the car to my indie, stayed there for two weeks and got it back un-repaired. He told me that he tried everything, did recalibration and still, he couldn't fix it. I gone to the dealership too, paid $540 for diagnosis and they told me that they have to replace latch and/or module and since I'm loosing some oil from the cylinders, both cylinders. They quoted me $5400. I hugged them and left :)
       
      Now, the last 2 weeks:
      Durametric comes up with error 16 (unknown error - latest version of the software)
      In the beginning, when I tried to calibrate with durametric, it was pulling the top back and then it was timing out but without any warning light on the dash. After this was done the only way to close the convertible was manual. This happened more than 10 times during my tries. Now, durametric doesn't do anything at all, I just get the 'working' icon and nothing happens.
      I follow the workshop manual and I changed the following with no changes on behavior:
      Module
      Top latch
       
      Still nothing. To add on this, when it stops I hear a 'click-click' sound from the back. The sound is from the module itself, but as I said, I replaced the module and nothing changed.
      The clam shell opens and closes/locks fine. I don't get a warning light when I'm closing the convertible. I'm getting a warning light only when it stuck. All windows are going up and down.
      The hydraulic oil is always full. 
      Any ideas or suggestions are strongly appreciated.
    • By Serg911
      Greetings Renntechers.
       
      My 2002 C4 Cabrio top more often than not, will fail to open or close when using the switch.  It always works (up/down) when I operate it with the key.
       
      Condition under which the top will consistently work:
      * insert key into the door lock
      * turn left or right and hold
      * top goes up/down respectively
       
      Conditions under which the top INconsistently works:
      * Key on the ingition (engine running or not)
      * e-brake engaged all the way
      * door(s) open or close
      * activate the convertible switch
      Results: 
      * Sometimes the top will go Down, but most times the top indicator on the dashboard will blink 4 times and nothing happens
      * Sometimes the top will go UP, but most times I'll get the 4 blinks
      * Sometimes the top will go UP/Down without any issues, under the same conditions.
       
      Battery is less than two months old, and have no indication that the battery may be the root of the problem
      All joints on the top are properly lubricated
      Do not hear any grinding noises, and when the top moves, the top motor is smooth and quiet
       
      I've read all I could find on this topic and I'm leaning towards a microswitch, Shouldn't the 4 blinks indicate which microswitch to replace? how do I test each?
       
      Thank you
       
    • By Frederic de Vedrines
      Hi everyone,
       
      My soft top was worn out and ready to be replaced.  I recently had it done by a professional upholsterer.
      When I picked up the car, I didn't notice any wrinkle and since I had upgraded to glass window, I was happy to be able to see clearly in my rear view mirror.
      However I noticed a gap of about 1/3 inch between the top rubber and the windshield.

      I was told to wait for about 10 days before opening the top because new tops are really tight out of the box and have to stretch a bit after they're installed.  It's been already 5 days and the gap is the same.
      Does anyone who had a soft top replacement could share his/her experience?
      Can the top be adjusted in order to get rid of that gap?
       
      Thanks,
      Fred
       
    • By lukaswlu
      So few weeks ago I got a new top for my 99 convertible. Its a glass top little upgrade.. but now I regret it since I have so many other problems, maybe the glass it too heavy.
      So the topped stopped closing properly. It will move into closing positing but is short few inches. So I have to stop it then manually pulled it down so it can latch properly. Then its fine. My top installer and top manufacturer say the top needs to stretch etc..
      Today I discovered that with my PST2 when I do convertible top calibration the top will close right to the end it does not latch but it does go right to the end. I figured that because during calibration the hydraulic motor mechanism runs for 9-10 seconds while in normal operation mode it stops after 6. Does anyone know how to change the run time to 9. Calibration comes out as perfect the computer says done ok no errors. I read something in the manual about potentiometers and measuring something at each stage of the roof. I have no idea what that is and how to do it.
      Anyone has any suggestions?.
      1. I Could wait few more weeks for the roof to stretch more and maybe that will get it back to normal.
      2. See if I can change the motor run time.
    • By mypctechs
      Hey all, I have an intermittent issue with a convertible top on a 2003 Boxster. After the car has sat for over a week the convertible top won't go up or down via the switch on the dash.
      Thanks to the great advice on these forums I was able to eliminate a lot of potential problems (parking break dash light, micro switches, blown fuses). Then I came to some suggestions involving the relay panel and, sure enough, if I pull a relay and put it back in, the convertible top switch on the dash works again.
      What I can't figure out is why this works. It seems like I'm pulling the wrong relay? I 'borrowed' this pic from another thread because the relay panel looks the same as mine. Everything I've been reading says that the convertible top relay is the long rectangular white box. However, when I pull the smaller white box to the right of it and put it back in, the one with the blue sides (see pic below), the top works again.

      In case anyone can't see it from the above, here's another pic... The relay I pull to get the top to work again is the one to the right of the yellow outline:

      Does anyone know why the top works by pulling the wrong box, to the right of what should be the convertible top relay? What is this relay, and if I replace it would it alleviate the issue?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.