Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

MkII AOS DIY sanity check


Recommended Posts

Check the pictures I took. As Ahsai said either AOS first and then manifold (his descriptions) or the other way around (my pictures). In your current state I would lower the engine, remove coolant tank, buy and modify ratchet wrench as described and tighten the bolt. Maybe it will work without removing the tank or lowering the engine but it was not enough room for me.

In case you want to see what's going on use a Gopro or a phone and stream the video (Ustream app).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to stop right now, but i was able to get the other 10mm bolt loose enough to move the aos. 

 

B/c the wire harness is in the way, i jammed a longer extension in there and proceeded to reinstall. I have use a 1/4" 10mm socket since that is thinner and that did the trick.

 

But, the extension that was on the aos bolt came off, but still in the general area. I think i can work with this later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you lower the engine as much as it goes, you could get that aos bolt from the bottom with a mini ratchet and 5mm hex bit like I described in the first post of this thread. You attack from the top of the cam cover around cyl #3, directly from the side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Success! i had issues with moving the wire harnesses out of the way, but i had tightened the aos first and then moved the manifold into place and threaded the forward most bolt. Before installing everything, i had threaded it in w/o having the manifold installed. This way i could thread it in with my fingers most of the way once installed.

 

I had to use a small 10mm wrench to tighten it from under the manifold. It took a few minutes but it worked. Now i need to put the intake tubes back in and get some 4mm vacuum tubing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Intake tubes are a PITA. I put them on with the manifold as it was too difficult for me to squeeze them in afterwards. I was able to rip them out but the other way back didn't work for me. Putting in the manifold with the intake tubes gives some stress on the green manifold sealing rings. You have to be very carefull that they don't get stuck on other stuff which is in the way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What i did was to remove the passenger side manifold and wiggle everything together. I have to get some of the 4mm vacuum line for what i had damaged. When i removed the connection from the alternator, the plastic connection broke off, So i'll need a new voltage regulator. I can live with those repairs.

 

I am hoping that everything starts when i get it all put back together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

All is back together after replacing the voltage regulator and the 4mm vacuum line.

 

It started up after the fuel ran itself through the lines. It runs rough sitting in the garage from 1-2 rpm but seems to rev decently higher. 

 

I wonder if it's a bad vacuum line, something not connected correctly, fuel injector not installed/connected properly, or even coolant in with the plug. 

 

I would hope it's not the last one, but i do have new plugs. The old ones worked fine before. So far no cel codes.

 

At this point it could be a few things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am done. I don't know what i wiggled around or whatever worked itself out, but the grey dragon runs well.

 

I have replaced the fuel rail, fuel injectors, starter, some vacuum line, and the aos. I will save the new plugs, brake lines, brake fluid reserviour and flush the brakes this winter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.