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EDIT: thread was originally made to find the right tools...now ive changed it to host my engine tear down progress check out the pics!

I've started the engine removal/disassembly process and have started shopping for tools.

I know I can make my own, buy have chosen to buy a set, the thing is, I'm not sure what kit will work with my motor.

Looking at a kit like this, but I see the note on the description saying it won't work with a 3.6

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L0ZOZ0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_3?qid=1420817758&sr=8-3-spellπ=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Could one of you gurus point me to the right kit?

Thanks!

Edited by AWDGuy

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I've started the engine removal/disassembly process and have started shopping for tools.

I know I can make my own, buy have chosen to buy a set, the thing is, I'm not sure what kit will work with my motor.

Looking at a kit like this, but I see the note on the description saying it won't work with a 3.6

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L0ZOZ0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_3?qid=1420817758&sr=8-3-spellπ=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Could one of you gurus point me to the right kit?

Thanks!

 

I think this is the one you are looking for:

 

b9685kit_1334067677.jpg

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Thanks JFP! (Again)

I'll have to find the rest separately then.

Edited by AWDGuy

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Looked around the net and couldn't find much....Any pics of this on a 3.6 motor?

Also....the engine disassembly how to on pelican show that they remove the IMS bearing before splitting the cases. Is this actually required? Can I not undo the flange bolts and split the case that way?

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Looked around the net and couldn't find much....Any pics of this on a 3.6 motor?

Also....the engine disassembly how to on pelican show that they remove the IMS bearing before splitting the cases. Is this actually required? Can I not undo the flange bolts and split the case that way?

 

I do not have any pictures of the tool on a 3.6L  engine, but perhaps someone else reading the thread does.

 

I'm not sure why they did it that way, do you have a link to their disassembly?

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I borrowed a pic from this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32451-engine-rattle/# which shows the timing actuator on the intake cam. Note the engine is not a variocam+ though because the intake cam is single lobe. However, it has the same timing actuator as in our variocam+ 3.6L

 

Here's my understanding of the tool. Note the BIG hex (part of the timing actuator sprocket) and the center bolt on it. The cam tool JFP showed is used to hold that big hex so you can unbolt the center bolt to seperate the sprocket from the intake cam. Similar to a crankshaft pulley holding tool that holds the pulley in place when you loosen the center bolt on the pulley.

 

The elongated piece on the tool is adjusted to rest on the edge of the head case (exhaust side) to get leverage and lock the tool in place. This way the tool can be used even when the engine is in the car. If the engine is removed from the car, all you need is a regular tool to hold that BIG hex in place.

post-5282-0-11469000-1424887636_thumb.jp

Edited by Ahsai

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I just read that, and still have no idea why that did it that way, other than to show how to remove an IMS bearing without using the now accepted tools.

 

Once the cams are released and the heads are off, there is no load on the IMS shaft, so pulling the bearing is not required before splitting the cases.   I would remove the flange cover first, however.

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Amazing. Thanks guys.

Think I will change the title of this thread :)

How do I get this pulley off? Is that some sort of nut/washer on in the center I need to remove? There nothing that fits in there, just a round hole.

post-95458-142491716738_thumb.jpg

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Jeez...took some wacks with a rubber mallett but it came off....though I need a new pulley now :(

Now...I've notice something off. This thing here is a hollow insert. With nothing going to it (& had nothing going to it). Pretty sure something goes here as when I remove the spacer, the hole is threaded, and it's filled with grime. Same side as my "bad" side.

20150226_200734_zpsdferu8bn.jpg

20150226_200747_zpsh6n0x4zk.jpg

Could this be a source of grime getting into the cylinders?

Edited by AWDGuy

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I think that's the spacer for the a/c compressor (the bolt at the back of the compressor).

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Ah yes. You're right.

Bad side of the engine. The 4 & 6 are full of oil. Bad pics...but the shiny black stuff is oil.

20150226_201920_zpsxysj6nc0.jpg

20150226_201927_zpswtwnnvya.jpg

20150226_201935_zpsyt3mufxh.jpg

Edited by AWDGuy

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Not quite sure yet. I am assuming from my symptoms that I have scored/tapered cylinders and the rings are toast, letting oil by. Obviously have some seal issues with the valves also....

Hoping to have the heads off this weekend. ...maybe even have the case split. Hope to see a smoking gun.

Edited by AWDGuy

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Not quite sure yet. I am assuming from my symptoms that I have scored/tapered cylinders and the rings are toast, letting oil by. Obviously have some seal issues with the valves also....

Hoping to have the heads off this weekend. ...maybe even have the case split. Hope to see a smoking gun.

Very cool and keep the photos coming please. It's rare to see a 3.6 tear down thread. You could be the first on Renntech! :)

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Will do Ahsai! I've had a hard time finding 3.6 specific threads. Those links you gave me to the shop manuals will help I'm sure. Already printed a bunch out.

More to come this weekend!

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Got the bad side done this weekend.  Got caught with no 14mm hex bolt for the timing chain tensioner, and had to wait until sunday morning to go buy that socket.  and of course the store has every individual socket except that one, and of course that one is only available in a complete set @ $49.99...lol

 

As suspected; scored cylinders,  Looks like 4 & 5 are toast.  Didn't take pictures of the spark plugs but you can imagine what they looked like after seeing those heads.

 

 

20150228_193814_zpsmycrtgxd.jpg

 

IMG_20150228_202509_zpsqwaapnmg.jpg

 

20150228_205247_zpsq5jnquqc.jpg

 

20150228_210936_zpsxlevhv1k.jpg

 

20150228_210956_zpso7s3ns9l.jpg

 

20150228_211008_zps9hb5l4r4.jpg

 

20150228_211824_zpsv1pic0ls.jpg

 

20150228_212356_zpshcajzcaz.jpg

 

20150228_212811_zpsfmfr1nio.jpg

 

20150228_213235_zpstx3z4fac.jpg

 

20150228_213501_zpswvxvnyrn.jpg

 

20150228_213513_zpssgomk38b.jpg

 

20150228_213534_zpsvvpn7x9e.jpg

 

20150228_213545_zpscphfimaz.jpg

 

20150228_213552_zpstdoiqcir.jpg

 

20150228_215308_zpsiwanzfzk.jpg

 

20150228_225303_zpsem5asjf7.jpg

 

20150228_225311_zpsyz9eu29q.jpg

 

20150301_115533_zpsscw3nxyy.jpg

 

20150301_182619_zps5vo6nz1g.jpg

 

20150301_183532_zpsor2drinr.jpg

 

20150301_185155_zps04p9jpyd.jpg

 

20150301_190626_zpsbjayweq0.jpg

 

20150301_191435_zpsthfxygre.jpg

 

20150301_192609_zpssyjhvajl.jpg

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Nice photos and good progress. What are the symptoms again and do you plan to re-sleeve and rebuild this engine?

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Symptoms are:

Ticking/knocking noise:

-high oil consumption. Long trips were not bad at all. Short trips, I would go through 5L of oil in 1k km of driving.

-left hand side exhaust tips were black a day after cleaning them

-Ocassionaly blue/greg smoke on start up, especially if it was just started up (say; moved a spot in the driveway and moved back)

The plan is to save my pennys and yes, eventually rebuild this motor with lne nickies and je pistons.

Edited by AWDGuy

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