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The rear window on my 2001 S has separated from the canvas, and the tan top is dingy and past its prime. I no longer have a garage, so I am forced to outsource it. I would appreciate some informed opinions.
I'm looking at a GAAH A5 Acoustic glass window top. The dealer is saying $2,700-$3k installed. A reputable convertible/interior specialist is coming in at $2,200. The dealer talked about needing to buy additional sound insulation, clips and etc., which is either building in additional profit, or it may be totally justified because they have experience and might provide additional quality. I don't have an excess of cash for a 18 y/o car so I'm soliciting experienced opinions:
Assuming the local top specialist is truly skilled at their game, should I expect that they can handle this, along with connecting the heating element? I doubt they have done many A5 Acoustic glass retrofits, whereas the dealer has likely done a few. If I go with the local specialists, are there some unique things I need to specify they order/replace/pay attention to? Should I give more weight to (a) Porsche dealer that only occasionally does a top or (b) the people who do tops all the time, but just not Porsches?
All informed opinions are welcome.
So only managed to see a black square of tape expertly placed over the Airbag light (ON all the time), only because of driving it in the sun with the top down. Been concentrating on other parts of the car.
Any-who, that has lead to seeing that the Seatbelt light doesn't appear at all, and closely related, the horn didn't have a fuse in it at all.
So this has brought up a question, the Codes reported, the electrical drawings (Bentley), ....while they say "passenger" or "driver" side, does this in fact relate to the left and right side of the car when it is the probably more common "left-hand drive"?
Code 30 Ignition Circuit, side airbag passenger................is that actually the right side?
This will not reset with the Durametric. I looked at the airbag connector in the left door, but now I am thinking it may actually relate to the other side of the car, i.e. LHD passenger
Interestingly, the Airbag module wiring, Passenger Side Belt Lock, that wire is cut at the plug and a grafted in wire (plug connected) heads off under the dash somewhere (yet to be traced).
So that Br/Bl wire say passenger, but maybe it relates to the right hand side of the car, in this case the drivers seat.
BTW, the left seat, (passenger), does not have a wire at the buckle, but I think maybe the RHD ROW, or Australian RHD cars didn't have that anyway. Or has been replaced with the wrong buckle.
So maybe the Airbag light was covered to avoid looking for a fault, might be a plug.
Could it be related to the seat-belt buckle, again patched to avoid fixing it properly? The light doesn't even go with the self-test, so could be a bulb.
I have read that the seat belt buckle may not be included in the Airbag ignition circuit for this region.
Horn didn't have a fuse in it. Relay operates with the horn pad, but no horns, so maybe bad horns.
The fuse may also have been removed if it had that bad horn pad issue and going off on its own.
I had to disconnect the passenger side door airbag as part of door panel removal, to replace the door lock mechanism. To check that I replaced the part correctly, I reconnected the battery and turned the ignition key, and got an "Airbag Failure" warning. The fault didn't clear even after disconnecting the battery, reconnecting the airbag and closing up the door panel, and reconnecting the battery. I confirmed the airbag was reconnected. I suspect that it may be a "latched' fault that can only be cleared via the Durametric tool - thoughts?
My first post here so please bear with me but pretty desperate for help. Have 2004 Boxster S and its, in general, running a bit rough (feels fuel rich). It also will also, on occasion, not go. Pulling up at a busy intersection and car reduces to Idle. Then put the foot down and the car stays at idle. Normally an engine restart gets things going again (although not always and sometimes requires a few goes).
Bought a computer reader and found error codes
P0102: Factory Fault code 115 - Mass air flow sensor - below limit
P2135: Accelerator Pedal - Signal Implausible
P0121: Factor Fault code 117 - Throttle value or accelerator pedal potentiometer - signal implausible
P1266: Factory Fault Code 409 - Fuel shutoff function monitor - signal implausible
Took the car to Porsche. They suggest a MAF sensor was the root cause and replaced it. It felt better for a few days then problem returned. They replaced another MAF sensor.. Same problem. They then said the MAF reads 0 and have checked the cables so its me DME and it needs replacing (not cheap)
Have taken the car back home and looked at the likely affecting values myself from the computer.
The computer shows to different values for MAF
Mass air flow (HFM) is always 0 regardless of if the car is working correctly or not and at any accelerator level
Mass air flow seems to move within a range of 18 (idle) to 100 (full throttle)
2. Throttle (since it had error codes on this)
Pedal encoder potentiometer 1 and 2 always move and the pedal value goes from 0-100% when its working but stays at 0 when its not. Since the potentiometers always move I am assuming the DME simply can't add things up so sticks the pedal value at 0.
ie. The MAF sensor reading above confuses the DME and it reduces the throttle to 0. That feel consistent with the behaviour of the car (its just sticks at idle)
Any one with any clues? Certainly don't want to replace the DME unless absolutely necessary....
I've recently purchased this 2002 Boxster S and have been going thru it trying to tidy up all of the various loose ends left for me by the previous owner.
All my google-imaging has left me empty handed on what little gadget is under this black tape.
I KNOW I'm getting a vacuum leak from it......