Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
DaveCarrera4S

Mods to rear lid wiring loom to avoid spoiler alarm?

Recommended Posts

Anybody jumpered out the microswitches if you've put on a fixed wing or the ebay fixed shafts on a stock wing?  I've read that some have installed the GT2 back lid loom.  But that just omits or jumpers the microswitch wires.  The same mod could be done to the OEM TT loom.  Looking for the logic of the microswitches:  I would assume wing down would be closed for the lower switch and open for the upper.  Wing up would be the opposite, or open for the lower switch and closed for the upper.  The onboard computer is looking for these signals once the hydraulic pump motor is activated.  Any help is greatly appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

I did this (below) which I think I found somewhere on this site on my 2002 turbo when I fitted a larger wing and the fixed variable height rams (bought from the USA off ebay). I removed the pump. It worked perfectly for me and has worked for a long time since ........ It is the upper microswitch with the grey wire and black wire connected together.

 

 

"This fix stopped my spoiler failure warning light from coming on. I have a 2002 turbo. I installed a fixed height stock spoiler kit after my right ram failed. This basically entails removing the hydraulic pump, pulling out the microswitches, gutting the rams and shimming the stock spoiler up with lengths of tubing placed inside the rams. It maintains the stock spoiler appearance at the raised height. I did not remove the spoiler dash switch. The spoiler warning dash light always activated above 75 mph and stayed lit until the car was turned off. This was getting tiresome.

I used a quick splice connector to splice the black wire to the light grey wire going into one of the two microswiches that was attached to the right side ram. (IIRC this is the upper limit microswitch, as the wires to it off the harness is shorter. The other microswitch has a blue wire going to it.  Problem solved. One could also close that switch or cut the two wires and splice them to achieve the same result. No more warning light now after numerous runs above 75mph. "

 

 

Edited by X-UFO
  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I installed a fixed shaft, which maintained my stock spoiler.  For resale purposes, I wanted the ability to have my leaking hydraulics repaired and re-installed.

 

In lieu of cutting and splicing wires at the micro-switch, I zip tied the upper (IIRC) into the depressed position and zip tied the lower (IIRC) one into the open position (to prevent it from accidentally triggering).  From what I remember, full down = both switches depressed; partially deployed = only top switch depressed; fully deployed = neither switch depressed.

 

Unfortunately, I don't remember the color code for the top and bottom microswitches.

 

I receive a single error the very first time I reached 75mph, but it has not triggered since then (3 years).

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

both good suggestions.  I believe the 2001 was different then 2002 onward.

After looking at the passenger side ram, I note that there is a hole cut in the chrome sleeve that triggers the microswitch for up and down position.  So when the wing is raising, the onboard computer waits for the top switch to change position and cuts the hydraulic motor.  Similarly when the wing lowers, the bottom microswitch activates to cut power to the hydraulic motor.  Just don't know if the microswitches are normally open or closed - my switches exploded when I took them off, miniscule fragile springs and contacts flying everywhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

both good suggestions.  I believe the 2001 was different then 2002 onward.

After looking at the passenger side ram, I note that there is a hole cut in the chrome sleeve that triggers the microswitch for up and down position.  So when the wing is raising, the onboard computer waits for the top switch to change position and cuts the hydraulic motor.  Similarly when the wing lowers, the bottom microswitch activates to cut power to the hydraulic motor.  Just don't know if the microswitches are normally open or closed - my switches exploded when I took them off, miniscule fragile springs and contacts flying everywhere.

 

Yes, that's how it works how you describe.

 

If you want a down spoiler all the time (with no dash errors) you short out both microswitch pairs of wires (qty4 wires).

 

If you want an always up spoiler (with no dash errors) you short out the top two microswitch wires together and leave the bottom wires either not connected to each other OR if the microsoft switch is still present leave them connected. The normal state of the unclicked microswitch is OPEN circuit.

 

It took me a while to work it out. It's quite a simple thing. I was getting the dash error when going over 75mph and then dropping speed and it was annoyingly  :eek: distracting and stayed on until the ignition was turned off.

 

I'm not sure if 01 / 02 were different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.