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My Cayenne S 2008 won't start. I turn the ignition key and all I see is the Porsche (red) logo turn on and the mileage counter light turn on. Steering is locked, the head unit works and I can hear audio. Normally I would hear a click and then all the indicator lights would on and I would hear the soft beeps but now I don't hear anything. There is no steering / ignition faulty codes showing up on the dashboard.
Has anyone experienced this? Appreciate the help.
By Liam Strauss
Me and my dad have recently bought a 2001 Porsche Boxster that has not been run in 2 years, as a "fairly easy" project to start with. So where to begin we did all the basics for a car that hasn't run in 2 years, we replaced the spark plugs and tubes, so then when we tried to throw some gas in it wont let us, we have checked the E6 fuse as was suggested on other forums, we slowly threw in some gas at a time, about 5 gallons in total. When we tried to start it it didn't, so when we tried to troubleshoot we found that it has no spark. So does anyone have any idea or suggestions on how to fix any or all of these things?
I have a 2000 996 with 107k miles
I had the AOS replaced about 20k miles ago. I replaced my crank position sensor about 5k miles ago to prevent hot start issues.
For the third time in about 3 months (I don't drive every day) my 996 wouldn't fire after filling up with fuel. I had been having issues with gas station pump nozzles shutting off prematurely - in California where we have the vapor recovery nozzles that aren't good for topping off the fuel. But the only way I could get my tank close to full was to fill it very slowly.
The first time I had the starting trouble after fueling, the car started up normally, but as soon as I pulled out onto the street and stopped at a traffic light the engine died - as if the fuel pump had stopped. When I tried to restart, the engine cranked but with no signs of fire. I pushed it back into the gas station and after 15 minutes with tow truck on the way I tried one more time - with the pedal floored - and it started after about 5 seconds of cranking.
The second time about a month later, I was far from home and it wouldn't start at all after refueling (again after topping off). I found something on the internet that said you can over-fill the tank and get fuel in/near the charcoal canister - causing some sort of safety shut-off to protect the canister from damage. So I tried to siphon some gas out but my siphon tube went in the filler pipe at least 36 inches without getting wet I figured over-filling was the issue. Eventually I got frustrated, cranked with wide open throttle and after about 5 seconds it started.
I replaced the fuel line vent valve to fix the premature nozzle shut-off hoping it would fix both issues. After doing so I drove to the station and filled up with fuel - no premature shut-off of the nozzle this time. But again the car wouldn't start. Without hesitation this time I cranked with wide open throttle and it started after about 5 seconds.
I found this link on the internet among others saying the cool fuel can prevent a worn piston from building pressure - http://www.fixya.com/cars/t3860084-after_fuel_fill_cap_removal_2003_996
Think my next trial will be to replace the fuel pump unless anyone has a better idea? Should I test the pump pressure first before replacing?
It isn't throwing any fault codes - I'm getting some occasional idle surge with the engine is hot - just started recently.
Last I checked (after the first incident) nothing jumped out at me on the Durametric.
All advice and DIY links appreciated. Thx
I need some help. I started replacing the starter (intermittent no/weak cranking) and have everything apart, but cannot see a way to get the starter out past the coolant pipes (they are the metal upgrade). I'd really prefer not to open the system since there are currently no leaks and I don't want to induce any leaks or have problems with air in the system.
Has anyone tried DB Electrical Starters?
They are 100 bucks from amazon for a NEW starter. Sort of hard to pass up on 100 bucks since most places charge 70-90 bucks just for a core deposit. I figure the worst case is i end up returning it as a core or something.
Curious to know though if anyone has run them before. They seem to be big in aftermarket diesel applications.