Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
jazzydaze

IMS single row or double row question...

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

I've been researching this bearing business and am considering replacing as a preventative.  Car is a 2000 C4 with 65,000 miles on it.  Runs good, no problems at all.  I was given a nice quote of 1700.00 at my local Indie who has done a few of these, so it is tempting!  My question is, with a VIN and an engine number, it appears that you still can't be sure of which bearing is in the car.  So how do I order the parts???  Do you think they would send both and accept a return?   

 

What I'm trying to avoid is the car in the shop while the wrong bearing comes...gets sent back...new bearing comes...install...etc.

 

Haven't dug up the engine number yet, but here's the VIN if its at all helpful:  WPOAA2992YS622596

 

Thanks for any insight!

 

-= Jazz

Edited by jazzydaze

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Hi all, 

I've been researching this bearing business and am considering replacing as a preventative.  Car is a 2000 C4 with 65,000 miles on it.  Runs good, no problems at all.  I was given a nice quote of 1700.00 at my local Indie who has done a few of these, so it is tempting!  My question is, with a VIN and an engine number, it appears that you still can't be sure of which bearing is in the car.  So how do I order the parts???  Do you think they would send both and accept a return?   

 

What I'm trying to avoid is the car in the shop while the wrong bearing comes...gets sent back...new bearing comes...install...etc.

 

Haven't dug up the engine number yet, but here's the VIN if its at all helpful:  WPOAA2992YS622596

 

Thanks for any insight!

 

-= Jazz

 

Because of the year of the car, you need to proceed cautiously.  2000-2001 was a transitional period during which the engine could have had a dual row or a single row, and there is absolutely no way to know which is in the car without taking it apart and looking.  All of the so-called published methods ( VIN, build dates, engine numbers, tec., etc.) have proven inaccurate, and as most vendors will not accept a return on an IMS retrofit kit, you will be running a large risk by ordering before the car is apart..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick response!  I suppose its going to be a two weeker in the shop then...grrrrr!  I may die without my Hellga for two weeks.....

A quick note... I just called another shop and posed this bearing question.  The answer was "Its a single row".  Doesn't seem the answer should have been so certain?

 

-Jazz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Everybody is entitled to an opinion, but history has proven many of them wrong.  Your car could go either way.

 

That said, the really good shops that do a lot of IMS retrofits would stock both.  Just something to think about........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An additional thought:  If your car turns out to be a single row, and you are considering going with the new LN "Pro" dual row replacement for the OEM single row bearing, be sure the shop owns the Faultless Installation Tool that is required to do one of these swaps.  You should not attempt to install the Pro dual row bearing without one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey JFP, how do you feel about the LN IMS Solution for the single row? Have you done one?

 

I like the Solution from LN, they are well designed and made, and are the only permanent fix on the market.  Not cheap, but if you are going to keep the car, it is the best option.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can tell if it is a dual row or a single row by looking at the flange, you don't have to remove it. If it is the single row then upgrading is a great idea. If it is the dual row than upgrading the IMSB is not as important. If you read up on the subject, including infor from Jake Raby, the failure rate on the dual row ISMB is much lower. Of course that being said I did upgrade my dual row, but used the direct feed system. Just a personal choice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 2001 C2 Cab with 52K miles and it had a single row IMSB.  I recently had it replaced with the Single Row Pro (along with clutch and RMS). 

Edited by EA6B0107

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okee. HELLGA'S back with a new ceramic dual bearing..whoot! Clutch was good... $1700 was the best I could do around here. Most wanted 3000 ish. What a load off :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okee. HELLGA'S back with a new ceramic dual bearing..whoot! Clutch was good... $1700 was the best I could do around here. Most wanted 3000 ish. What a load off :)

Do you what your build date is?  There's a sticker on the drivers door that specifies the date. I believe it's right upper corner if the door was turned 90 degrees.  I knew someone with 3/00 with dual row bearing and mine is a 7/00 but not sure which one I have, will wait until I need to replace the clutch. 

Just curious, thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I own a 2000, with a build date of 08/99. So my car is almost a 99 with the last 4 VIN numbers being: ... 0220; hence, I'm 99% sure I have a dual-row as I was very early in the assy line of the 2000 model year.

So could we assume your car was built in the last assembly-month of the 2000 model year: ie, July?

As such, you might be pushing it for you to sport a dual-row ... but, eh!, who knows?

At any rate, your case would be interesting. Make sure you tell us what you have once you probe down there ...

Edited by Y2K911

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys, it does not matter one iota when the car was built.  We have seen very early 2000 cars with single row bearings, and others with dual row bearings.  For that matter, I personally own two 2001 cars since they were new, one is a single row, the other a dual row.  2000-2001 is a total crap shoot as to what bearing you will find, build dates for either the car or the engine have never proven useful for this purpose, which is why you need to take them apart before you really know what you are dealing with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okee. HELLGA'S back with a new ceramic dual bearing..whoot! Clutch was good... $1700 was the best I could do around here. Most wanted 3000 ish. What a load off :)

 

Did you have the option of going with a plain bearing ("Solution") versus another ball bearing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi...the only solution I considered and used was the LN bearing. I suppose you could replace it with Porsche part if you were a gambling type...lol. I didn't research everything that might be available as the LN was clearly the most popular solution so I just went with that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I own a 2000, with a build date of 08/99. So my car is almost a 99 with the last 4 VIN numbers being: ... 0220; hence, I'm 99% sure I have a dual-row as I was very early in the assy line of the 2000 model year.

So could we assume your car was built in the last assembly-month of the 2000 model year: ie, July?

As such, you might be pushing it for you to sport a dual-row ... but, eh!, who knows?

At any rate, your case would be interesting. Make sure you tell us what you have once you probe down there ...

I'm hoping for a dual row, but can't be 100% sure until the trans is dropped.  I just drive it like I stole it and try not to think too much about it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A strange bonus is that the clutch feels much much nicer though it was not replaced? Any thoughts on why this is?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.