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OK, I can't be the only DIY guy to make this mistake (fingers crossed)... I had just completed bleeding the brakes and clutch up on jack stands (in last minute prep for my DE the next day) and was jacking up the rear to remove the rear jack stand and the car is so stiff it came off the front and rear jack stands simultaneously (normal).  I then removed the rear stand and began to lower it back down and the front passenger side jack slipped off the lift point and crushed the outer AC hard line almost completely. I instantly thought it was the cooling lines and I layed on the ground in defeat for about 10 minutes knowing I had just threw away my weekend.  As I lay there staring at the ceiling on the concrete floor, I then realized it was not my cooling line (too small diameter for cooling), it was my AC line and I was back in business!  

 

The line was not cracked through, but as you can see in the pics the inner diameter of the line is probably reduce by 80%... so I resolved to just not run the AC until I fixed it later.  Of course it was all day rain and the cab was so foggy to see, so I had to run with AC on all day anyway... and it ran fine!

 

My question is this... Option A - if it runs OK and is not cracked, can I just let it go and no further harm will come (besides my pride)?  Or Option B - I am compromising the life of more expensive parts of the system ($1300 compressor due to reduced oil flow, etc) if I don't get it fixed asap?  If the concensus/ recommendation is to fix it, what parts besides the hard line (and two new seals) do I need replace (e.g. Dryer/Desicant module, etc.)?

 

Thanks for the quick reply... I only have 2 weeks before my next DE and I gotta decide quick!  Be gentle...

 

P.S. - the line is cold to the touch when AC is on... is that normal or a symptom of this crimped line?

 

 

post-92308-0-17583900-1433296586_thumb.j

post-92308-0-98085100-1433296589_thumb.j

post-92308-0-49418600-1433296594_thumb.j

post-92308-0-27824300-1433296597_thumb.j

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OK, I can't be the only DIY guy to make this mistake (fingers crossed)... I had just completed bleeding the brakes and clutch up on jack stands (in last minute prep for my DE the next day) and was jacking up the rear to remove the rear jack stand and the car is so stiff it came off the front and rear jack stands simultaneously (normal).  I then removed the rear stand and began to lower it back down and the front passenger side jack slipped off the lift point and crushed the outer AC hard line almost completely. I instantly thought it was the cooling lines and I layed on the ground in defeat for about 10 minutes knowing I had just threw away my weekend.  As I lay there staring at the ceiling on the concrete floor, I then realized it was not my cooling line (too small diameter for cooling), it was my AC line and I was back in business!  

 

The line was not cracked through, but as you can see in the pics the inner diameter of the line is probably reduce by 80%... so I resolved to just not run the AC until I fixed it later.  Of course it was all day rain and the cab was so foggy to see, so I had to run with AC on all day anyway... and it ran fine!

 

My question is this... Option A - if it runs OK and is not cracked, can I just let it go and no further harm will come (besides my pride)?  Or Option B - I am compromising the life of more expensive parts of the system ($1300 compressor due to reduced oil flow, etc) if I don't get it fixed asap?  If the concensus/ recommendation is to fix it, what parts besides the hard line (and two new seals) do I need replace (e.g. Dryer/Desicant module, etc.)?

 

Thanks for the quick reply... I only have 2 weeks before my next DE and I gotta decide quick!  Be gentle...

 

P.S. - the line is cold to the touch when AC is on... is that normal or a symptom of this crimped line?

 

As long as your AC system is shut off, nothing will happen, but your AC system will probably not function properly when it gets hot outside, and you could also be placing the compressor at risk running it this way.  The system needs to have the 134A removed and captured, the damaged line(s) replaced, and the system recharged and tested.

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Do I need to replace the dryer component at same time if I open system to replace line?  I'm sure I can minimize exposure to outside air when I replace the line so hoping I can avoid it... plus I'll request extra vacuum time to pull any moisture and ambient air out of the system upon refill... 

 

I was planning on just letting the AC escape when I crack the system since I have no recovery equip, replace the line and Dryer if you think I need to, then bringing it to a shop to perform the vacuum and fill (including extra oil for estimated amount in the line I replaced?).

 

Thoughts?

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Do I need to replace the dryer component at same time if I open system to replace line?  I'm sure I can minimize exposure to outside air when I replace the line so hoping I can avoid it... plus I'll request extra vacuum time to pull any moisture and ambient air out of the system upon refill... 

 

I was planning on just letting the AC escape when I crack the system since I have no recovery equip, replace the line and Dryer if you think I need to, then bringing it to a shop to perform the vacuum and fill (including extra oil for estimated amount in the line I replaced?).

 

Thoughts?

 

Do not let the gas simply escape to the environment, that is both environmentally unfriendly, and in many states outright illegal.  Take it to shop that can properly recover the gas for recycling,

 

You should not have to replace the dryer as long as you keep the system closed as much as possible while replacing the damaged lines.

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Do I have the right Parts picked out for order?  Looks to be about $205 shipped... my buddy has a Robin Air machine and said he will help me complete the repair correctly (on a proper lift to boot!).  If I'm only out $200 and some wrench time I feel pretty lucky it was limited to that.

 

 

1X 99657309101

 

2X 99970753441

 

Btw - how long do you recommend drawing vacuum on the system before refill before and after this repair?  30 minutes?  I think you can specify on the machine... Also, if we measure the oil recovered on vacuum/recovery before repair, that should be all the PAG oil we need to add back I assume after the repair is made (since it sucked up all the residual oil out of the lines it could?  Or do we need to add more back since there will still be some in the damaged line we remove... if so how much to add on top of recovered amounts?   

 

Thanks for all the advice!  

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Do I have the right Parts picked out for order?  Looks to be about $205 shipped... my buddy has a Robin Air machine and said he will help me complete the repair correctly (on a proper lift to boot!).  If I'm only out $200 and some wrench time I feel pretty lucky it was limited to that.

 

 

1X 99657309101

 

2X 99970753441

 

Btw - how long do you recommend drawing vacuum on the system before refill before and after this repair?  30 minutes?  I think you can specify on the machine... Also, if we measure the oil recovered on vacuum/recovery before repair, that should be all the PAG oil we need to add back I assume after the repair is made (since it sucked up all the residual oil out of the lines it could?  Or do we need to add more back since there will still be some in the damaged line we remove... if so how much to add on top of recovered amounts?   

 

Thanks for all the advice!  

 

I cannot see the images you posted.

 

We normally pull vacuum for 30 min., then test hold it for another 15.

 

As for oil, the entire system should hold 195-/+ 15 ml of the ND 8 fluid.  I'm not at the shop at the moment, but if memory serves, the OEM service manual set has a list of the amounts of oil contained in each component for make up purposes.

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Great looking out gents, much appreciated!  Love this forum... I'll take some pics and try to create a DIY for any others who may fall into this same trap... 

Edited by Viper6
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Glad we could be of help.  For future reference, there is an outfit (http://liftbars.com/) that makes lift bars which insert in the factory lift points and that allow you to pickup the entire side of your car at one time, and which have a unique way to allow the bar to pivot on a common jack stand without slipping:

 

liftbars_lw.jpg liftbars_lw_detail.jpg     porschelb_zpspe5qc6rz.gif

 

We have no affiliation with this firm, but a customer had these at the track and they worked well and were very solidly made.  Because they can raise the entire car fairly quickly, and get it up pretty high as well, the look like something a serious DIY'er without a lift might consider.

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Glad we could be of help.  For future reference, there is an outfit (http://liftbars.com/) that makes lift bars which insert in the factory lift points and that allow you to pickup the entire side of your car at one time, and which have a unique way to allow the bar to pivot on a common jack stand without slipping:

 

liftbars_lw.jpg liftbars_lw_detail.jpg     porschelb_zpspe5qc6rz.gif

 

We have no affiliation with this firm, but a customer had these at the track and they worked well and were very solidly made.  Because they can raise the entire car fairly quickly, and get it up pretty high as well, the look like something a serious DIY'er without a lift might consider.

I gotta get a pair of these - lifting the whole side of the car from 1 jack point just freaks me out!

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  • 4 years later...
On 6/3/2015 at 12:53 PM, Viper6 said:

Great looking out gents, much appreciated!  Love this forum... I'll take some pics and try to create a DIY for any others who may fall into this same trap... 

 

I apologize for resurrecting a dead thread, but I am facing a similar issue (except the squished line came with the car) and wondered if the OP was successful in replacing the line DIY and if a guide was created.

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