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after getting a lot of "yeah, I'll do it but have never done this kind of work before" to my question of can you re assemble my engine, I've decided that I am going to try putting my engine back together myself. I am going to enroll in jake's online course for September.

does anyone here have the FActory Porsche repair/service manual that I could reference while rebuilding my engine?

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after getting a lot of "yeah, I'll do it but have never done this kind of work before" to my question of can you re assemble my engine, I've decided that I am going to try putting my engine back together myself. I am going to enroll in jake's online course for September.

does anyone here have the FActory Porsche repair/service manual that I could reference while rebuilding my engine?

 

Contrary to popular opinion, the factory 996 service manuals do not have a section on complete disassembly / reassembly of the engine.  Porsche has never intended for dealer techs to get that far into these engines, so they never published anything on the subject, including the correct torque specs.  In fact, Porsche has not published anything on the subject since the 993 air cooled cars.

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so where would one find out the torque specs?

 

That has always been one of the $64 questions.  Jake has been working on his own book on the subject, but I do not know where that stands.  Besides torque specs, you will also need clearance ranges for the bearings, ring end gaps, end play for the crank, side clearance for the rods, and on and on.  Most people that assemble their own end up winging it based upon torque spec ranges for similar sized bolts, and/or other general "rules of thumb".  Shops that work on the engines find what works, and keep it to themselves.

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AWDGuy;

You seem to be between a rock and a hard place at this time having followed your other thread on Rennlist and previously here.

I believe Jake has taught a few of his classes in Canada so he might have someone that attended one of his classes that he would suggest to do this rebuild if you decide to go back to that option given the lack of documentation for such a finicky job.

Last year, I had asked him about his best student in the Vancouver area and he recommended (was extremely impressed with) someone in Richmond (near Vancouver airport). I have not gone ahead yet with what I want to do but even today this shop was mentioned on Rennlist Canada as being most excellent for engine work.

I understand Vancouver is a bit far from Ottawa but there might be someone in the Toronto area he would recommend if he had one of his classes there in the past.

Bonne chance ... and for what it's worth, we are pulling for ya!

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maybe take this one bolt at a time.

bearing carrier case. any published specs there? I can start with that next week when I get everything back from the machine shop.

can I reuse the bolts? I got apr rod bolts on LNE recommendation , but I want to know if I should get new bolts to reassemble the bearing carrier...I know going new should always be the answer but if I was to do that, I'd be spending over $2000 in bolts. that isn't a joke. if they aren't stretch bolts, I should be able to reuse some of these??

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so the carrier bolts by arp are $205....not bad. head bolts through arp.... $890

I think I'll stick with the porsche oe ones... $250

all torque/sequence specs (for these bolts) are on arp's site - fyi

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  1. Let's start with bolts; I would not reuse any of them as many are single use torque plus stretch type (rotational angle).  Go with all ARP replacements or new OEM.  And yes, the bolt expense is all part of how this engine works.
  2. All of the crank carrier bolts need to be lubricated (I prefer ARP lube).  First torque is to 15 ft. lb.; followed by 90 degrees.  Once the crank is installed, axial end play should be 0.05 to 0.24 MM.  When the rods are installed, again lube the fasteners, then torque to 15 ft. lb., plus 90 degrees.
  3. There are two thrust bearings on the crank, one goes in cap #1 (belt end), the other in cap #7 (flywheel end).
  4. When installing the bearing shells into the carrier, be sure to lubricate them.  I prefer Joe Gibbs assembly lube, but anything similar will work.

Have fun...............

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just to make sure I understand.

when you say +90 degrees...

torque bolt to 15ftlbs, stop, then continue for an additional 90 degrees?

 

Correct, to be precise, I use a torque angle meter (I have a digital unit, but you can get a mechanical unit off Amazon for around $14):

 

61TSJF5xSvL._SL1100_.jpg

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thanks once again. the advice & tips are really appreciated.

Y2K911 - I sent jake an email about a student of his in my area that was recommended to me by an air cooled Porsche builder in the area. Jakes response was that this person was a great student but wouldn't know of he's done the engine before...

I'm thinking of taking his online course in Sept and then deciding if it's worth to spend another 2k in tools or just send it out

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AWDGuy: Acknowledged!

Good luck with the rebuild, whichever option you select.

 

It is an eye opener for me as well as to how much those fasteners add up to rebuild an engine.

One understands better why Jake charges that much for his engine work, expertise and final product.

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oh yeah, I'll be one of the 1st to tell you that even jake's minimum pckg is a fantastic deal.

 

Yet very few people even realize that and think his gouging them.

 

You might also look at RND Engines, which is a separate company but the letters stand for "Raby Navarro Development".  They do replacement M96 and 97 engines with just the weak stuff addressed (Nickies, IMS, etc.), but no trick rods, pistons, etc.  Theses are turnkey engines sold on a core exchange basis, and are much cheaper than a one-off Raby unit.

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oh yeah, I'll be one of the 1st to tell you that even jake's minimum pckg is a fantastic deal.

Yet very few people even realize that and think his gouging them.

 

they didn't do their homework!

 

 

Most people don't, they think a reman Porsche should cost about the same as a reman 350 cubic inch Chevy, which you can find for about $1,500.  It is only when they go through the exercise of pricing out tooling, machine shop time, bolts, etc. that they realize some of Jake's engines are a fair deal pricewise.

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