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I'm new to the Porsche family.... Just over a month and the proud owner of a 1999 Boxster. It's a project car but still on the road and my point to point ride. Must say, LOVE to drive this car....This one has been lowered some, well alot... and does it hug the road..... Just doesn't miss much being that low.... My question is, I am having an issue with the rear lights on this car... I know I had a problem with the left rear brake light. I tried tracing back the wire but found no problem... I then switched the lamp holder from the right side to the left and all the lights worked... So I thought I had an equipment issue. I bought a (Porsche) replacement bulb holder. Came in last night. Changed out today...Guess what???? Turn indicators work, Backup lights work, Brake light works on the Right Side ONLY, (still) Now no rear tail lights what so ever......I have checked ALL the fuses, only had to replace one and it had nothing to do with the lights. NOTHING has changed....Where did my tail lights go?????? Can't figure this out.......Please help.......Just FYI, ALL the LIGHTS were working as of last Wed. when I did the bulb holder swap and checking the lights. Power is to both wire harnesses. Everything else works except the left brake light and the drive lights. Go figure.......
Good afternoon all,
This is my first post but want to start by thanking all who have shared there knowledge on other posts as it has allowed me to fix various items on my car.
looking for assistance before i take the car to the dealer. i think it is down to the mobilizer but not sure if there is something easy i am over looking.
currently have a no start / no crank condition. when i pulled the car out of winter storage it would crank slow but not start.
1) Replaced the battery, still no start. Then turned into no crank.
2) Replaced ignition switch, started and ran for 10 -15 minutes; but would not restart.
3) Have 12V to pin 30 of the starter relay when key turned to start. And if i short pin 85 (from DME) to ground it cranks but wont start.
4) Replaced Starter relay with a new one. Will "click" when key turned but not hold.
5) swapped the DME relay with another one. (read a post somewhere that this fixed a similar issue for someone)
6) bypassed clutch switch
7) very occasionally (1 out of 40 to 50 tries) car will fire up. this may coincide with having the battery disconnected for 30+ min first but is not guaranteed.
? removed the control unit under the seat and when open appears to be in good condition, no moisture / corrosion. 15 amp fuse confirmed good.
9) checked all fuses in driver foot well, no issues found.
have tried both keys with the same results.
At this point i think either the immobilizer or ECU are the problem but do not have an appropriate scan tool for either of these.
can any of you recommend something i should try before going to the dealer?
By Kevin Bryck
Okay this is REALLY specific.
The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Missing cable location
Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
I've had a spoiler warning lamp on since I bought my 1998 996 convertible a few years ago. As an electronics engineer, I decided I may be able to tackle this issue myself. Before starting, I have read numerous previous posts regarding this issue, and what the fixed-wing bypass harness (996 612 070 51) does.
When the rear spoiler is elevated, I'm getting zero Ohms between the Grey/Brown (A2) wire and the Brown (A5) wire, as expected. This becomes open circuit when the lid is lowered. There is then zero Ohms between the Brown (A5) and the Green/Grey (A4) wires, again as expected! The switching of the brake lights works normally too, but still the warning light persists.
I am wondering if there could be a corroded plug/socket further forward from the rear of the car because the one at the back is very clean and the microswitch states are normal in both positions. I'm not sure if this is a common fault, but I'm guessing it probably isn't as I can't find anything online. One thing I have noticed is that although the manual up/down wing rocker switch works, I have to keep is pressed down until the wing is down. When I try to elevate the wing manually, the switch triggers the latching function of the relays, but when the spoiler is fully up, I can still hear the motor continuing to turn and the gears slipping inside the rear mechanism. The gears will eventually strip and I'll end up with a bigger problem, so any thought on this nuance would be greatly appreciated.