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Is replacing oil sender a DIY job?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I determine the correct crows foot from this video-




I went from above, going from under the car was harder, can't see what you are doing. Bought mine at Sears, used a shorter 3/8ths extension. Clean surface of head where sender screws in. Snug it in and check for leaks. None for me.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I can confirm this is an easy driveway job. 20 minutes.


I have a 2005 C2S MT. Symptoms - oil pressure above zero when engine not running, many times the pressure pegged at 5 bar (cold, hot, high rpm, low rpm).


Firstly, just tried reseatting the two (spade) connectors (can't mix them - they're two different widths) - it's just stick your arm in there on a non-hot engine. No joy on the gage though.


Bought $70 part off Amazon (996 606 203 02); comes with aluminum sealer/washer. [it definitely looked like a Porsche part when I inspected it.]


Tools: 3/8 drive 19 mm crowfoot wrench, 6 inch 3/8 extension, 3/8-1/2 drive adapter, 1/2 inch ratchet, trouble light


If a lot of debris around the area, clean it out now.

Remove electrical connections to sender.

From the "top" (engine bay), reach and fit the extended crowfoot to the sender at a good position to break it loose.

Fit the ratchet to the extension; break the sender loose.

Use hand to completely unscrew it.

Hand thread in the new one until the sender/washer seats.

Re-fit the crowfoot.

Use good judgment about how much to torque. Not really too much owing to the aluminum washer/design.

Re-fit electrical connections.


Fired electrics with key - pressure gage at zero.

Started vehicle - pressure to 5 bar (typical for cold behavior).

Turned off; fired electrics - pressure at zero.

Stuck my arm into the engine bay to see if I could feel any wetness/oil - none.



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