Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Clutch engagement points adjustable in 996TT?


RODAN

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

 

Please forgive me if I'm repeating a post. I've looked for a solution to my issue fairly thoroughly and both online or in person I have found little information on the subject specific to the automobile or mostly dismissive answers to the question:

 

"What, if any component or piece of the transmission/clutch system governs the engagement point as it relates to pedal travel?"

 

The car is a 2003 TT and when I had the cooling tubes pinned I had a stage 2 clutch installed.

 

When I first bought the car I thought that the pedal "caught" high in comparison to our 2001 C4 and 2003 C2, I wanted to simply lower the progression and I expected the 600+ HP rated clutch to be heavier.

 

In effect this all had the exact opposite effect. The clutch catches extremely high through about three degrees of pedal travel. 

 

Does anyone out there know enough about this system to perhaps comment on the situation?

 

I am suspecting the springs govern the progression. But then what governs the spot where engagement begins? I would find the car far easier to drive if it could be moved closer to the floor. Right now I have to physically bend my knee to release the clutch and with so little progression it's actually hard to drive smoothly.

 

I can honestly say I wouldn't buy it if I test drove it like it is now. Biggest mistake I ever made with a car.

 

Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

  • Moderators

As the system is hydraulically operated, there is really no practicle way to control the engagement point on the clutch.  The helper springs on the pedal system can alter the effort involved, but will again not alter the engagement point. 

 

That said, it sounds like yours is extremely high, which may be indicative of a problem with either the hydrualic system itself, or the clutch fork pivot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check out the adjustable clutch stops from RSS.  It will  help eliminate a lot of pedal travel before the clutch engages. 

 

I use a race puck that engages probably way less than 2 inches before the clutch engages at the top.

Edited by 996TWINS
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Mike Blaszczak
      Hi!
      I have a 1999 C4 coupe with a manual transmission. Earlier in the spring, I had the transmission repaired -- 2nd gear replaced and the pinion bearing replaced, too.
      Since then, I installed a short-shift kit myself.
      Today, I noticed that the back-up lights aren't illuminating. All the gears engage fine, including reverse, so I don't think there's an adjustment problem. I don't know if the lights were working or not before my short-shift installation.
      What are the likely causes for the lights not working? Switch wasn't reconnected after tranny work, or the switch is bad, I guess. But could my short-shift installation be causing the problem?
      Thanks!
       
    • By Amber Wells
      I have a 97 tiptronic non turbo boxster. I blew my front seal so I need to rebuild my tranny. I just need to know what the parts numbers are for the bushing and seal.... I cant seem to find em and want to make sure I order the right parts.
       
      I heard you can actually order a larger bearing and seal and then machine out the tranny where it goes into and in turn avoid this sort of issue for much longer.. if that helps identify what im needing here im sorry im sort of lacking in the lingo im still learning and will update with a better description once i can go over it again with the boyfriend.
    • By Jimbowne
      Hello all,
       
      I've got a 2008 997 C4 w/ 56k miles on it. It was cold this morning (30 degrees F) and I noticed clutch slip for the first time since I bought the car in higher gears under full throttle. The clutch pedal feels very mushy and lost alot of its spring on the return. I stopped by my local shop and he confirmed its the clutch.
       
      The car is my daily driver but I do autocross about once a month and intend to track in the future. I told myself I'd get the light weight flywheel when its time to replace the clutch, and so it seems that time has come. I'm not adverse to the extra noise of the LWFW, but I've heard that you shouldn't do this mod on a C4. I see sharkwerks has a C4 project car with the LWFW so I assume it worked out, but who knows.
       
      Aside from the flywheel obviously I need a clutch. I've been looking at the Sachs stage 2.5 performance clutch kit, and it seems like a good option. I've also heard that the BBI clutch slave cylinder is an upgrade that would be helpful for clutch performance and feel.
       
      Questions:
      -Anyone have any experience with a LWFW on a C4?
      -Anyone have any experience with the Sach's stage 2.5 kit on a C4?
      -Any other clutch kit recommendations?
      -Anyone have any experience with replacing the clutch slave cylinder?
       
      Note: I'm going to get my IMS bearing inspected but if its not leaking I think I'm going to pass, seeing how I have 56k miles on it with no issues. Perhaps its past the infant mortality stage?
       
      Thanks,
       
      Jim
    • By Ronnie38
      My 2001 C4 Automatic had what appeared to slip (over rev) when making scarp turns, decided to replace transmission filter and refill, the first run after 10 minuets the transmission went into limp mode (lights on drive selector started to flash) check engine lamp came on (P0734 and P0734) was read. the reason given was input and output ratio wrong for both codes.
      The Durmatic gave no other info. So I proceeded to  order both input and output sensors. Since I couldn't confirm if a shift selonod was bad. Mean while I am in Cal for the holidays I remembered I moved two of the magnets in the pan there were 4 magnets 2 each in the depressions in the rear of the pan I took one each and moved the forward closer to the input and output sensors.
      Anybody out there have any idea besides taking it to the dealer, at 75 bucks for the 5 liters of tranny oil each time I replace something to help me be smarter?
    • By sld
      transmission selector switch and unit repaired replaced 2 times and now it needs it again.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.