Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Hi guys new to renntech don't know why its' taken me so long to join up! Hope to help and be helped :)

 

I have a 2006 C2S, and I am about to bleed the brakes for the first time and you know the whole ABS issue how we can't bleed that without the PST2 thing, I was wondering if brake fluid travels through the ABS when you hit the brakes hard?

 

I was wondering if I bled the brake system, then took it for a drive and activated the ABS a few times, what that push the new fluid through the ABS system? Then I could bleed the system again to get that old fluid out. Would that work? 

 

Cheers for your help guys!

Edited by no1joey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I now use a vacuum bleeder which uses a compressed air source to drag the fluid out from the nipples.  It's similar to this one.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Clutch-Fluid-Bleeder-Bleeding-Vacuum-Type-1ltr-Kit-One-Man-Air-Operated-/251602084288?hash=item3a94a721c0:g:gjwAAOSw3xJVcDOj

 

When using this device you don't have to activate the brake pedal. I see this as an advantage as under normal use the pedal is never pressed to the floor and the piston travels in the polished section of the master cylinder bore.  If the brake bleeding method of pressing the pedal to the floor is used the master cylinder seal travels through that lower part of the bore which is not normally used and therefore the seal could be damaged.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Im looking into a Durametric kit to do the ABS, I know most people have said it's not needed, however been a 10 year old car and only flushing the brake fluid every two years I want to be right against the safe side, plus I tend to be paranoid about my Porsche - thank you IMS issues!

 

They're just $230. I would pay that much for a dealer to bleed my brakes without the ABS method so in the long run it will make sense.

 

Appreciate your help! Now if I can just find a DIY on using a Durametric cable to activate the ABS while flushing! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really? I saw a post from someone who said the brake fluid can turn to jelly inside the ABS system if not flushed regularly? This post alone has made me question you guys, sorry. 

 

Does the brake fluid travel through the ABS system naturally or is it 'trapped' in there? If it's trapped wouldnt age affect its composition? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Really? I saw a post from someone who said the brake fluid can turn to jelly inside the ABS system if not flushed regularly? This post alone has made me question you guys, sorry. 

 

Does the brake fluid travel through the ABS system naturally or is it 'trapped' in there? If it's trapped wouldnt age affect its composition? 

 

Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living.  The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement.

 

To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu:

 

821563d1396530351-abs-bleeding-with-dura

 

 There are 5 activations related to the ABS system:

  • Start/Stop ABS Pump
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front

You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment.  On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off.  This is normal.

 

In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid.

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Really? I saw a post from someone who said the brake fluid can turn to jelly inside the ABS system if not flushed regularly? This post alone has made me question you guys, sorry. 

 

Does the brake fluid travel through the ABS system naturally or is it 'trapped' in there? If it's trapped wouldnt age affect its composition? 

 

Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living.  The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement.

 

To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu:

 

821563d1396530351-abs-bleeding-with-dura

 

 There are 5 activations related to the ABS system:

  • Start/Stop ABS Pump
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front

You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment.  On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off.  This is normal.

 

In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid.

 

 

You're awesome thank you! I guess that guy didn't know what he was talking about. 

 

If brake fluid flows through the ABS system and is not permanently trapped in there, then yes it makes perfect sense there is no point in actuating the ABS system when doing a flush. 

 

Would you still recommend buying a Durametric cable? are they useful for other applications? 

Edited by no1joey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

 

 

Really? I saw a post from someone who said the brake fluid can turn to jelly inside the ABS system if not flushed regularly? This post alone has made me question you guys, sorry. 

 

Does the brake fluid travel through the ABS system naturally or is it 'trapped' in there? If it's trapped wouldnt age affect its composition? 

 

Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living.  The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement.

 

To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu:

 

821563d1396530351-abs-bleeding-with-dura

 

 There are 5 activations related to the ABS system:

  • Start/Stop ABS Pump
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front

You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment.  On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off.  This is normal.

 

In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid.

 

 

You're awesome thank you! I guess that guy didn't know what he was talking about. 

 

If brake fluid flows through the ABS system and is not permanently trapped in there, then yes it makes perfect sense there is no point in actuating the ABS system when doing a flush. 

 

Would you still recommend buying a Durametric cable? are they useful for other applications? 

 

 

 

 

 

Really? I saw a post from someone who said the brake fluid can turn to jelly inside the ABS system if not flushed regularly? This post alone has made me question you guys, sorry. 

 

Does the brake fluid travel through the ABS system naturally or is it 'trapped' in there? If it's trapped wouldnt age affect its composition? 

 

Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living.  The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement.

 

To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu:

 

821563d1396530351-abs-bleeding-with-dura

 

 There are 5 activations related to the ABS system:

  • Start/Stop ABS Pump
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front
  • Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front

You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment.  On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off.  This is normal.

 

In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid.

 

 

You're awesome thank you! I guess that guy didn't know what he was talking about. 

 

If brake fluid flows through the ABS system and is not permanently trapped in there, then yes it makes perfect sense there is no point in actuating the ABS system when doing a flush. 

 

Would you still recommend buying a Durametric cable? are they useful for other applications? 

 

 

Short of leasing a PIWIS for $20K (US) for the first year, the Durametric system is the best diagnostic tool available to a Porsche owner; but just be aware that the Durametric is a Porsche only system and will not work on other brands.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.