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Secondary Air Test Readiness monitor incomplete


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No worries about my questions. For some reason I thought you were doing troubleshooting yourself. I suggest bringing the car back to the indy for further diagnostic. P1130 usually is air leak after the MAF but your indy should know how to check it anyway.

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  • 5 months later...

Hi everyone,


 


My experience with Secondary Air System Readiness on a 2002 Boxster could be useful for some of you guys.


 


I had faults P1128 and P1130 due the to SAI check valve being disconnected from the intake manifold rubber sleeve. Finding the disconnect was easy using flammable CRC brake cleaner and listening for a change in idle speed (tip: don’t light the brake cleaner). After connecting the check valve all faults went away and I took the car through the emissions test drive cycle below RPM:


 


- Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs. 


- Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs. RPM < 3K


- Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins. RPM < 3K


- Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for approx 5 mins.


 


All readiness tests passed except the SAI which showed as incomplete and the EVAP test which failed. I fixed the EVAP test by changing the gas cap whose rubber gasket was cracked from age. Nice cheap fix! I checked that the secondary air pump and valves were OK by activating them using my Durametric. Interestingly, by activating the secondary air pump and valves using the Durametric, I could temporarily make the SAI readiness show as complete, but SAI readiness would return to being incomplete within a couple minutes. The oxygen sensor voltages looked good, unlike what mesutter found on his Boxster, with pre-cats oscillating between 0 to 0.7V, and post-cats flat at around 0.7V.


 


Eight days later after several more drive cycles, and many cold starts, the SAI was still showing as incomplete even though the car had no faults and seemed to be running great. What next? I thought maybe a valve in the secondary air system was gummed up so I again started playing with activating the pump and the valves using the Durametric. This time activating the SAI components during a warm idle made the SAI readiness show as complete and stay complete! I didn’t need to do a full drive cycle.


 


I passed CA smog without problems!


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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: 

 

It is not at all unusual for some early Boxster to go a lot of miles before the I/M Readiness test clears, we have seen customer's cars go a couple hundred miles before it reset, which is why we caution owners not to try to fix problems, or experiment with diagnostic systems right before going for emissions testing. 

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  • 6 months later...

I found a crack in the bottom side of my vacuum reservoir.  I used a MityVac hand vacuum pump with gauge to fault isolate to this $28 part, PN 99311014003.  That has to be the LEAST expensive thing I've ever purchased direct from the dealer.

 

Last night the Secondary Air Test Readiness FINALLY set for me.  I drove several drive cycles mentioned above and everything BUT Secondary Air got set. However, I remembered something.  Prior to R&R of the vacuum reservoir, I never got a P0410 and P1411 CEL unless I started and immediately drove my car within the first 2 min and 10 seconds.  Figuring I may have had yet another issue, I started and drove it immediately.... I kept the car within the 720 - 2800 rpm range for that ~2 min duration while exiting a parking lot.  Shortly thereafter... I verified the readiness flag for Secondary Air was READY!  "Thank you JESUS!"   So, if you are having problems... try driving it immediately at cold start within the 720 to 2800 rpm range.

 

I just PASSED smog this morning.  Funny to watch the tech first open the rear, then the front trunk.  He looked at me perplexed asking..... "where's the engine?"  I had to remove the engine access lid for him to visually see the "air pump" (his words).  I gave him a quick overview of how the system works and what I had replaced.  TOO FUNNY!

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  • 5 months later...

I never anticipated how useful this Thread would be - particularly ecarmans comments above. I was just a spectator but now I have been fighting the SAI Readiness problem for many days against a Smog Test deadline.

There are a huge number of desperate Posts on Readiness Status and my year (2001 S with 7.2 DME) seems to be one of the most recalcitrant. So I would like to add a few of my own experiences  . I hope the smarter guys will comment on any mistakes so I can correct them in this Post and acknowledge their correction.

  First ,you can tell this is an issue because there are dozens of conflicting recommendations on Drive Cycles. The most frequently mentioned is the "BMW Drive Cycle".Ignore the 993 Drive Cycle.Most are impractical & dangerous and on a Freeway in Los Angeles and perfect CHiP bait.

 Second, unlike many mechanical faults ,the repair is NOT merely a procedural (as JR modestly says about M96 rebuilding!). It is very opaque.

So here are a few amateur tips to save others time & money.

1. Log everything on your Durametric so you can show it to a Tech. It is highly unlikely the average Porsche diy guy(like me) has a clue what the significant parameters and events are - because they are mostly secret code.

2. If the Dealer or Indie offers to fix the Readiness Status problem - decline . Ask instead to pay for him to fix it AND get you a Smog Certificate .Do not agree to take the car to the Smog Test yourself. Don't be surprised if the Not Ready flags reappear randomly after the successful Smog Test. Just pre-book an Indie Appt in time for the next biennial Test. It is a matter of Faith,not mechanics.Nor Ready does not mean a malfunction with 100% certainty. It just means Not Ready/not in the mood iykwim.

3. Until you fix all the DTC's  you can't begin work on the Readiness Status. If you keep clearing a DTC , you will never fix the Readiness Flags. If you keep disconnecting the battery &/or have a weak/failing battery - that will also cause interminable Readiness Hell.

4. Trying  to run a Drive Cycle on Jack stands seems like a clever idea but nobody claims it actually works ! A dyno - maybe ? Allegedly, A PWIS or some Dealer-only device can "Force" Readiness - cost is a bargain at $200 but see 2. above !

5. The time and aggravation in this process may be huge, Trying to nickle and dime it is futile. I had already fitted new battery,plugs.coils, all O2 sensors. gas cap,fresh oil+filter,fresh tank of fuel ,new air filter,AOS ,clean MAF and a Propane test for vac leaks - particularly under the Vac reservoir.  All trivial compared to actually eliminating the Readiness "Fail" Status.

6. You MUST be able to hear the SAI pump run at a cold start. So consider removing access panels or listening carefully at the Engine purge fan vent by the Passenger Door(L.H.D.car) Even if it runs, it does not confirm the Air is getting through the ports(plugged with carbon?) or the vacuum-controlled actuators are working/connected. In my case I had personally rebuilt the entire engine down to the last nut,bolt (except 1 spring:-)),so I was confident it was all clean and functional.Otherwise you may need to do some very intrusive tests/inspections.

By this stage I hope that the merely average diy guys like me will have accepted that this may be a task they can not do. But at least all the Durametric logs will help the clairvoyant Tech who can. For those of you who chafe at this ,think of the concession to go to the Indie like agreeing to go to Therapy with your S.O. Defies all logic  but effective - for a while.

Please add  your experiences here so we can build a record of proven solutions and eliminate the misleading nonsense - like adding Thinner to the gas tank, using anti-foulers/extenders on the rear O2 sensors,Italian tune-ups, impulsively replacing catalytic converters ,etc.

BTW at this time my SAI Readiness is still not Ready = Fail ! I'll just keep doing cold restarts for another week...But all the others eventually became Ready (no real clue why!)

Edited by Schnell Gelb
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Readiness code (as defined in the Porsche OBD II manual):

 

"The readiness code indicates that the required fault checks were performed by the OBD system. It is not important whether or not a fault was found. The readiness code is reset if the fault memory is erased or the power supply (terminal 30) is cut off when a code is stored.


The readiness code is not reset when the battery is disconnected if no fault is stored.


To initiate the readiness code, at least two trips have to be completed.


The readiness code is shown for the following systems:
- Catalytic converter conversion
- Fuel tank ventilation system
- Secondary air system
- Oxygen sensor
- Oxygen sensor heating"

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It's actually very simple based on almost all similar threads I read.

 

First, try to see if you have any real issues in the SAI system by logging the O2 sensor voltage for all 4 sensors for the first 2 min of cold start. That itself will tell you if you have any issues.

 

If no issues, just keep putting more miles or doing more drive cycles.

 

If still not set, go to the dealer or anyone who has a PIWIS, which can force the car to execute the SAI test. Not guaranteed to pass. If there are no issues, the flag will set. However, if there are underlying issues, the flag will still not set despite the commands from PIWIS.

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Hey, you're welcome. I actually meant you need to verify the following normal pattern during cold start, not about any DTC's or any info from Durametric (other than the actual voltage):

 

When the SAI pump is running

Pre-cat O2 voltage starts at 0.44v, then tapers to almost 0 at around 20 seconds or so

Post-cat O2 voltage starts at 0.44v then tapers to 0 before the pump stops

 

Once the SAI pump stops running

Pre-cat O2 voltage will swing between 0.2 to 0.7v every couple of seconds

Post-cat O2 voltage will stay at ~0.7v

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The O2 readings are as you helpfully  describe.

In another Thread someone suggested to do a cold start  and then  immediately run the revs up to 3000 rpm and hold there for 90 seconds. In desperation I decided to try this because in the interim I got 2 new codes  P0410 and P0411.Mine is a (E-Gas) 2001 Boxster S.

The 3k rpm for 90 seconds produced a "Pass" for the SAI Readiness Status - Hallelujah- but why ? I fixed nothing.So for others with this Secondary Air Readiness "Fail" problem - try it. At least it is a fix that doesn't involve removing the intake manifolds to hunt vac leaks !

The 2 new codes P0410 & P0411 remain.They return immediately(within seconds) when I cancel them with Durametric which suggests a significant defect - so it should be easy to find - right !

The SAI pump runs correctly. It is easy to hear in the Boxster with the covers off.You can reach over from the Driver's seat and feel it run even with a laptop running Durametric  on your lap. I also bench tested it to feel how forceful the air flow is - seemed great. I can also turn it on with Durametric.The Electric Change-Over Valve can also be operated with Durametric - you can hear it click.

Mine has the newer "Shut Off Valve which replaces the earlier(troublesome) 2 valve system. So this eliminates several of the possible causes of the P0410 & P1411. Vac leaks or my stupidity remain the likely culprits. I'll spend some time with a Mighty-Vac and a manometer this evening to do some simple checks before removing the intake or alternator..

Another Forum member is developing a hack circuit for the fickle SAI code .His circuit sends a false signal to the DME that all is functioning correctly. I may have to try it because my stickers have expired and all this road testing at constant speed makes me easy/expensive CHiP bait.

I hope this Thread will eventually help others solve this problem and avoid a problem with Law Enforcement !

 

Edited by Schnell Gelb
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SAI  Tests.

I tested the entire system with a Vacuum pump+ gauge .Made some test leads for the electric change over valve. Removed the Alternator and the flex ducts between the Intake manifolds for better access. Finally found the source of the leak - same as Ahsai's old problem - the Vacuum Reservoir. To get a test vacuum hose fitted to the reservoir requires the  dexterity of  a keyboard player with disposable flesh on his hands. I whine because you must have a 101% perfect connection when testing the Reservoir. You do not want a false negative because you had a leaky hose connection !

Extract it from the space created by removing the Alternator -  but use a magnetic screwdriver and pick up to avoid loosing the screw on the side of the Vac Reservoir.

The definitive test in my case was to connect the suspect Reservoir to a source of slightly compressed air, invert the reservoir and partially fill the hollow base with water. Bubbles ! Lots of bubbles. From the seam where the base was 'glued' in. I hope this helps others confirm they have found not just one but all the vac leaks !

Tempting to save some time by just filling it with epoxy . But I'll leave that experiment to others. In theory you slather epoxy on, connect to vacuum and it sucks the epoxy into the cracks- maybe. For less than $30 ,I'll get a new one.

The interesting question is why didn't the Pre-cat O2 sensors show a failing SAI system per Ahsai's test above?

At that stage I only had "Not Ready". There was no CEL,no codes. Once the codes popped up that indicated that the vac reservoir leak had deteriorated to the point where it totally failed to operate. Before then it was partially operating with a small amount of vacuum that immediately dissipated when another vacuum consumer was operated? Speculation but likely.

Edited by Schnell Gelb
fun
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On Saturday, May 06, 2017 at 7:52 PM, Schnell Gelb said:

SAI  Tests.

I tested the entire test system with a Vacuum pump+ gauge .Made some test leads for the electric change over valve. Removed the Alternator and the flex ducts between the Intake manifolds for better access. Finally found the source of the leak - same as Ahsai's old problem - the Vacuum Reservoir. To get a test vacuum hose fitted to the reservoir requires the  dexterity of  a keyboard player with disposable flesh on his hands. I whine because you must have a 101% perfect connection when testing the Reservoir. You do not want a false negative because you had a leaky hose connection !

Extract it from the space created by removing the Alternator -  but use a magnetic screwdriver and pick up to avoid loosing the screw on the side of the Vac Reservoir.

The definitive test in my case was to connect the suspect Reservoir to a source of slightly compressed air, invert the reservoir and partially fill the hollow base with water. Bubbles ! Lots of bubbles. From the seam where the base was 'glued' in. Tempting to save some time by just filling it with epoxy . But I'll leave that experiment to others.

 

Trying to patch these things is false economy.  With them being the pain in the butt to get out, it makes no sense to even try to fix a damaged unit.

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Agreed. Just waiting on the Part.

On another Forum they are testing a hack for the SAI system.Edit - mixed results.

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/66560-any-interest-sai-delete-circuit-2.html#post537641

I battled long and hard with SAI issues. I did lots of research and checked/upgraded lots of parts. My conclusion was that:
 first you need to do a thorough diagnosis.That is awful because it is so tedious but do it anyway because if you miss one leak  all your work is wasted.
Second , do everything because access is so awful - how many times do you want to remove the alternator and maybe the Intake manifold?
Third, upgrade to silicone and brass.The cost is trivial and it will never fail.
Invest in a smoke machine or at least a Mighty Vac to test your work. Become a Master at using both otherwise you will be down the same rabbit hole endlessly.
Rebuild the SAI pump
Clean out the ports for the SAI system in the cylinder head.If they are plugged with carbon, no amount of other work and expense will be effective.

If the drive cycle fails, the "technique" of running the engine at 2700 rpm for several minutes seems to work for some.

After all this and more - it showed Ready and passed the Ca Smog Test.

Edited by Schnell Gelb
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  • 5 months later...

I have just corrected several  minor issues - Timing,Lifters,Injectors and have no DTC's, engine runs perfectly - except...

SAI & Evap  "Not Ready " or  'Fail' on your Durametric Readiness test. . It needs the silly Drive Cycle magic . I say magic because there seem to be several different variations on the Official Drive Cycle. One is as simple as running the COLD engine at 2900 rpm for at least 90 seconds .But not over 3k.

For those struggling and who have had no luck with the official drive cycle here are 5 versions I culled from other locations.

The SAI "Not Ready' is  stubborn even when there are no SAI faults.

" secondary air should set after a dead cold start and it only takes one cycle to set...unless it's not a pass.
Check air pump operation
Check vacuum system for leaks
Check shut of valve operation
Check o2 sensor operation
Check flow through system into exhaust."

Good Luck !

There is a You Tube on the BMW Drive Cycle which may be helpful also?

  1.  here is what I followed
    Drive in 10 minute cycles 1400-2800 Rpm in 5-6 gear as slow as you can drive in light traffic.
    If you stop or go out of RPM range the cycle resets the timer.
    After 5-6 cycles you will probably have it.
    For Evap you must have 1/3 to 2/3 of a tank of fuel.edit ,others say 1/4 to 3/4.1/4 did not work for me. As soon as I filled over 1/2 ,the Evap set ready.
    Start the car cold and let it idle for 10 minutes with lots of accessories on. (lights, A/C or heater)
    Do the same at the end of the drive cycle.

 

  1.  I have run the following drive cycle on my Boxster and 993s (Edit - not this is a different car!)with great success. The key is to lug the engine. And longer times is better than shorter. I have the hardest time with the second 3:15 second run for 3:15 minutes. I have started doing it on the freeway shoulder. If the CHP stop me I'll claim mechanical issue. True! Do the cycle twice. If all codes are not set, let the car cool and try it again. It has taken me up to three times to get all of them set. But usually twice will do it. Good luck.

    Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.

    Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.

    Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.

    Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:

    Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)

    Idle in Drive for 5 mins. (Tiptronic trans.)

    During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.

 

  1. sometimes you can get it to work without actually driving the car.

    just hold the following RPM ranges from 2-5 minutes:

    Idle
    1500
    2000
    2500
    3000
    Idle

    the checks usually happen before the 5 minutes is up, but without a scan tool hooked up you won't know when it happens.

 

  1. Porsche 911 Drive Cycle - OBDII Emission Monitor Reset Procedure

    Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Porsche's fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle. Take extra caution when perform the Porsche drive cycle on public roadways. if you think you will be unable to safely perform the drive cycle please seek assistance from an experienced Porsche mechanic or smog check repair center.

    A. Start your Porsche 911 and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system.

    B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency.

    C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching).

    D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested.

    E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.
  2. The dealer said they can do a computerized forced readiness for about $160....smh. Is this my only option?? After spending over $3000 to get to this point I feel like "oh well, what's another $200"...smh
Edited by Schnell Gelb
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My experience is to be patient and persistent.Keep driving it.Try each of the Drive Cycle variations several times and keep checking your progress.

I set one of 3 remaining stubborn Ready Status "Fail" monitors by doing a cold start+ idle at 2900 r.p.m. while stationary for 90+seconds. That is the period when the SAI pump runs. I suspect(stress the uncertainty )  that it set because at almost 3k rpm there was much more air+fuel flow than if you just drive off gently. Who knows? It worked(on one Monitor) for me.

Loren mentioned something useful (if I understood correctly) - don't keep resetting the CEL .That just sets you back to the beginning in the entire process. Best to keep working on it sequentially - Set one monitor and them focus on to the next.

The problem with that logical but pathetically blithe recommendation is I still do not know which specific parts(or combo of parts) of which drive cycle sets which monitors.

Once you have done the correct 'things', it may take another 2-4 drives to clear the CEL.Don't cancel it with your Code Reader.

Iff you are using Durametric - check for updates,No they don't alert you of updates - you have to check yourself or read Renntech frequently !

I hope this helps get you through Smog with less frustration folks.

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  • 3 years later...
On 4/27/2016 at 3:25 AM, JFP in PA said:

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: 

 

It is not at all unusual for some early Boxster to go a lot of miles before the I/M Readiness test clears, we have seen customer's cars go a couple hundred miles before it reset, which is why we caution owners not to try to fix problems, or experiment with diagnostic systems right before going for emissions testing. 

 If you have an SAI Not Ready issue search for my recent post with help from JFP and Loren.

 

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    • By Schnell Gelb
      For the 2001 cars there is a very difficult,obscure Secondary Air Injection ( or S.A.I.) "Not Ready" problem. This is also called "Inc" or "Incomplete".
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    • By JuncoJones
      Here’s a quick tutorial on how to fix a P0492 error code on a Boxster 986 / 987 / Carrera 996 / 997.
       
      Error: P0492 – Porsche fault code 208 – Secondary-air system bank 2
       
      Symptoms: no visible symptoms, except for the CEL (check-engine light) being triggered, particularly during cold engine startups with the SAI (Secondary Air Injection) pump running for the first 90 seconds.
       
      Diagnostics: when troubleshooting the P0492 error code, I initially focused my attention on all SAI components located on top of the engine, such as the SAI pump, hoses, solenoids, vacuum hoses and reservoir, etc.
       
      I found it easier to remove all vacuum components and work on a workbench and running individual tests, with the invaluable help of a handheld vacuum tool. I did find the vacuum reservoir had a leak, and one vacuum line was damaged (mostly brittle due to heat / time). Also tested both solenoids with a 12-V DC power supply and then replaced the damaged components with new ones. The CEL was off for a few days, but it came back on, throwing the same error code.
       
      With great help of Ahsai on troubleshooting the O2 sensors readings during a cold startup cycle (thread here), it looked like the problem was an obstruction in one of the paths used by the SAI pump to blow cold air form the engine compartments into the catalytic converters. And because I didn’t wanted to work on my car during the cold season, I parked the project for the winter and lived with the CEL on for many months, certainly one of my joys in life ;)
       
      Solution: When the first nice spring days finally arrived, I used the opportunity to do this and other maintenance jobs in my car, like deep cleaning after the winter season (It’s my all-year-round daily driver), two axle rebuild job, etc.
       
      With regards to the exhaust manifolds removal procedure, where a broken bolt can quickly become a nightmare, I had already done some prep-work on all manifold bolts: driving the car until reaching running temperature, quickly jacking-up the car and loosen all exhaust bolts while still hot, thoroughly cleaned, anti-seize and remount. This method, while not everyone’s cup of tea, ended up being quite effective in my case.
       
      And when I finally removed both exhaust manifolds, where I was originally expecting lots of carbon buildups, I instead found a soft clay-like product (oil?), which was quite easy to remove with a finger nail (through the gloves, of course ;).
       
      I thoroughly pressure-washed all components, carefully avoiding to send the water jet directly into the exhaust valves / catalytic converters and the use of any degreasers. A 2,000 psi electric pressure-washer with a 10 degree spread nozzle can be extremely effective, particularly at short distances. Attached is a picture of the engine block after the pressure-washing job.
       
      Finally, a grey Scotch-brite, well lubricated in oil, for mirror-like surface finishes (well, in most cases). It honestly looked amazing… too bad I forgot to take a picture… my apologies.
      Finishing-up with another thorough cleanup of all exhaust bolts, a new thin layer of anti-seize and a complete car reassembly, and my P0492 error code is finally gone, hopefully for good!
       
      Cheers,
      Jones




    • By Rochan
      Hi all,
       
      I've been lurking the forum and have been struggling with some CEL codes with my 2000 Boxster S.
      A little history that I have been battling with P1126 and P1133 ever since changing out the two pre-cat O2 sensors.
      Then I went ahead and replaced it with a MAF and the car has been code-free for two weeks.
       
      Now the problem is that the SAI monitor is still showing incomplete and I've done numerous cold starts.
      I've read many posts in regards to this issue and saw what the "passing" graph looks like from here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49155-secondary-air-test-readiness-monitor-incomplete/?p=272478
       
      Couldn't figure why the SAI monitor never became ready status, I finally got a BT OBD2 reader. This morning, I took some reading of the voltage from the O2 sensors on a cold start.
       
      Could someone here look at a graph and shed some light to my problem?
      Should the magenta (B2S2) voltage matches the green (B1S1) sensor? Anything else looks wrong in the graph?
       

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