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I am having trouble getting my 2001 Boxster S ready for a smog check in California. The rules have recently changed. Year 2000 and up vehicles are no longer driven on rollers with a sniffer in the tailpipe. The check is solely through interrogation of the EMU via the OBD II port. Also, whereas in the past one test readiness monitor could be not reset and the vehicle be tested and if clean, pass the emissions test, now only the evap readiness can be incomplete - no other. Although my vehicle has never thrown an SAI related code, nor pending code, the Secondary Air monitor will not set to ready. A little history. I initially had an illuminated CEL, the codes showing were P1128 and P1130. I discovered the vacuum hose feeding the SAI valve was pulled out from the port on the right rear intake rubber connector. (Wonder why this did not trigger an SAI code, since the vacuum needed to open the valve was not present). Upon connecting the hose and clearing the codes (I have Lemur Blue Driver), neither the codes nor pending codes have reappeared after several hundred miles of driving. All of the monitors showed ready soon after restart and a small amount of driving except the catalyst, evap and SAI. After driving the prescribed setting cycle (cold idle, 20-30 mph, 40-60 mph, hot idle in gear) the evap and catalyst monitors showed ready. However, now even after a dozen or more 2 minute, 10 second cold start idles, the SAI test still shows incomplete. Does anyone know what the DME is looking for to set SAI ready? One post I found said 125 Mv or less from the pre-cat 02 sensors after 10 seconds of idle with the air pump on. True? BTW, my air pump is operating on cold start and runs for about one minute and 40 seconds. My cold idle is smooth and about 1k rpm in neutral, 800-900 in drive ( tiptronic). Should the initial 2 minute, 10 second cold star idle be done in neutral or drive? (I’ve done both) Any suggestions? I’ve talked to the California Air Resources Board, and it appears the referee path is no longer an option.

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Welcome to Renntech!

Indeed you seem to have a strange problem. My SAI (a '03 996) sets pretty much after the first couple of cold starts.

When I can't explain your situation, you should be able to see if your SAI is operating correctly by logging the O2 sensors' voltage per this http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49140-seeking-expertise-from-all-vacuum-gurus-p0492-that-really-wants-to-stay/#entry272177

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I am having trouble getting my 2001 Boxster S ready for a smog check in California. The rules have recently changed. Year 2000 and up vehicles are no longer driven on rollers with a sniffer in the tailpipe. The check is solely through interrogation of the EMU via the OBD II port. Also, whereas in the past one test readiness monitor could be not reset and the vehicle be tested and if clean, pass the emissions test, now only the evap readiness can be incomplete - no other. Although my vehicle has never thrown an SAI related code, nor pending code, the Secondary Air monitor will not set to ready. A little history. I initially had an illuminated CEL, the codes showing were P1128 and P1130. I discovered the vacuum hose feeding the SAI valve was pulled out from the port on the right rear intake rubber connector. (Wonder why this did not trigger an SAI code, since the vacuum needed to open the valve was not present). Upon connecting the hose and clearing the codes (I have Lemur Blue Driver), neither the codes nor pending codes have reappeared after several hundred miles of driving. All of the monitors showed ready soon after restart and a small amount of driving except the catalyst, evap and SAI. After driving the prescribed setting cycle (cold idle, 20-30 mph, 40-60 mph, hot idle in gear) the evap and catalyst monitors showed ready. However, now even after a dozen or more 2 minute, 10 second cold start idles, the SAI test still shows incomplete. Does anyone know what the DME is looking for to set SAI ready? One post I found said 125 Mv or less from the pre-cat 02 sensors after 10 seconds of idle with the air pump on. True? BTW, my air pump is operating on cold start and runs for about one minute and 40 seconds. My cold idle is smooth and about 1k rpm in neutral, 800-900 in drive ( tiptronic). Should the initial 2 minute, 10 second cold star idle be done in neutral or drive? (I’ve done both) Any suggestions? I’ve talked to the California Air Resources Board, and it appears the referee path is no longer an option.

 

For some unknown reason, some of the earlier 986 cars (2000-2001) are very slow to reset the secondary air injection system's I/M Readiness flag, sometimes taking as much as 100 miles or more to reset after code clearing.  People have tried a variety of techniques to overcome this, often with very limited success.  If you can hear the system running on a cold start, and there is nothing else organically wrong with the car, I would just put some everyday miles on the car until you see a clear I/M Readiness test, then take it in for inspection.

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Trying not to write a long response on how ridiculous the CA smog check has become...I agree with JFP, sometimes these cars take a long time to reset to ready. I would give it at least a week and 100mi before trying again. If you don't pass next time then PM me. Also don't forget about the bar snap test they do for smoke. They technically should let the car idle for 15min and then rev it to floor three times. If there is any smoke at the exhaust they will fail you for that as well. Visual test so completely subjective to the tester. Brilliant method.

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Thanks for the info. Isn't the only time the DME is looking at the secondary air injection system is during the cold start idle period? If so, shouldn't the monitor reset be affected by the number of cold starts, not the number of miles driven?

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post-1-0-97322000-1446480840_thumb.png

 

All 5 criteria must be met to have system readiness for smog tests.

That includes no pending fault codes. One pending code during a drive cycle starts the process over again.

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Not sure this helps at all as I am more familiar with bmw ecu and programming but in most of the obd2 software for bmw you can set the ecu to ready for all necessary conditions. I haven't seen this option in Durametric, but maybe someone with more familiarity with the Porsche programming could comment on if that exists. It would help even in terms of you being able to look at the obd2 to see if all shows ready condition before you go back for another smog check.

Edited by crwarren11

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Thanks for the info. Isn't the only time the DME is looking at the secondary air injection system is during the cold start idle period? If so, shouldn't the monitor reset be affected by the number of cold starts, not the number of miles driven?

 

While that might sound logical, it is not how the system operates; the car has to go through a number of cold starts, full warm up, drive at highway speeds, shut off, and full cool down cycles before it resets.

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Not sure this helps at all as I am more familiar with bmw ecu and programming but in most of the obd2 software for bmw you can set the ecu to ready for all necessary conditions. I haven't seen this option in Durametric, but maybe someone with more familiarity with the Porsche programming could comment on if that exists. It would help even in terms of you being able to look at the obd2 to see if all shows ready condition before you go back for another smog check.

 

Such a feature does not exist in the Porsche DME.

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Is the readiness drive cycle for the 2001 Boxster the same as the one I've seen listed for the 993, i.e., 2min 10sec cold idle, 3min 15sec @20-30 mph, 15min 40-60 mph, 5min idle in drive ( tiptronic)? Does it matter if the cold idle is in neutral or drive? Also, what specifically is the DME looking for the set the SAI readiness cycle complete? BTW, the cold idle is 1000 rpm while the air pump is on and drops to 800 when it shuts off. In drive it is 800 rpm both with the pump on and off.

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Is the readiness drive cycle for the 2001 Boxster the same as the one I've seen listed for the 993, i.e., 2min 10sec cold idle, 3min 15sec @20-30 mph, 15min 40-60 mph, 5min idle in drive ( tiptronic)? Does it matter if the cold idle is in neutral or drive? Also, what specifically is the DME looking for the set the SAI readiness cycle complete? BTW, the cold idle is 1000 rpm while the air pump is on and drops to 800 when it shuts off. In drive it is 800 rpm both with the pump on and off.

 

The 2001 DME and emission system is completely different than that of an air-cooled 993.  After a code reset, the DME is looking for any signs of problems on the five items Loren listed above, and that there are no new codes (active or pending) on these system for a period of time and under certain driving conditions.

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Thanks to you and Loren. The terms "for a certain time and under certain driving conditions" are a bit vague. Any definitive drive cycle that is as specific as that for the 993?

Loren says "all 5 criteria must be met to have system readiness for smog tests". In my case, my reader showed a ready condition on all monitors EXCEPT secondary air. California will allow a year 2000 and up car to be tested with the evap monitor pending, but no others.

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Thanks to you and Loren. The terms "for a certain time and under certain driving conditions" are a bit vague. Any definitive drive cycle that is as specific as that for the 993?

Loren says "all 5 criteria must be met to have system readiness for smog tests". In my case, my reader showed a ready condition on all monitors EXCEPT secondary air. California will allow a year 2000 and up car to be tested with the evap monitor pending, but no others.

 

As mentioned previously, the car has to go through a number of cold starts, full warm up, drive at highway speeds, shut off, and full cool down cycles before it resets.  People have promoted specific regimens like the one you mentioned for the 993 from time to time, but I am unaware of a specific one that works consistently on the later cars.

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Thanks! I didn't realize the 993 process was not official Porsche. I assume the dealers have methods that they can use to cycle the cars while monitoring the systems.

Unfortunately today my car threw a P0420 code, so I have other issues. This is a first. Perhaps I have O2 sensor issues on bank 1 that are contributing to the failure of the SAI readiness monitor to reset.

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Welcome to Renntech!

Indeed you seem to have a strange problem. My SAI (a '03 996) sets pretty much after the first couple of cold starts.

When I can't explain your situation, you should be able to see if your SAI is operating correctly by logging the O2 sensors' voltage per this http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49140-seeking-expertise-from-all-vacuum-gurus-p0492-that-really-wants-to-stay/#entry272177

Thanks. According to a local Porsche-only mechanic and also a dealer mechanic, 2000 and 2001 models are especially problematic. However, I now have thrown a P0420 code, so checking the O2 sensors is certainly the next step!

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It should be very obvious what the problem is once you observe the sensor voltage at cold start and then at operating temp. Sorry to say but P0420 is quite accurate in our cars (bad cat) and also O2 sensors have their own codes. If it's just the internal element got knocked loose, it can be repaired by welding. If the element is consumed instead, the cat will need to be replaced.

Welcome to Renntech!

Indeed you seem to have a strange problem. My SAI (a '03 996) sets pretty much after the first couple of cold starts.

When I can't explain your situation, you should be able to see if your SAI is operating correctly by logging the O2 sensors' voltage per this http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49140-seeking-expertise-from-all-vacuum-gurus-p0492-that-really-wants-to-stay/#entry272177

Thanks. According to a local Porsche-only mechanic and also a dealer mechanic, 2000 and 2001 models are especially problematic. However, I now have thrown a P0420 code, so checking the O2 sensors is certainly the next step!

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It should be very obvious what the problem is once you observe the sensor voltage at cold start and then at operating temp. Sorry to say but P0420 is quite accurate in our cars (bad cat) and also O2 sensors have their own codes. If it's just the internal element got knocked loose, it can be repaired by welding. If the element is consumed instead, the cat will need to be replaced.


Thanks, Ahsai
I understand that the CAT is the logical culprit, but it's strange it popped up in the middle of my SAI resetting woes. A malfunctioning O2 sensor could be at the root of both issues. In any case, my cheapest first step at this point is swapping the O2 sensors side to side to see what happens. I got them out this afternoon. The right rear is quite a pain with what appears to be Tiptronic plumbing creating a labyrinth hindering extracting the wiring with its bulky plug. Tomorrow I'll reinstall, clear the codes and it's off to the races. Not certain I can monitor the O2 voltages with my Lemur Blue Driver, but I'll find out tomorrow.

I have an unused O2 sensor I bought several years back. It turns out while is listed in several sources (including one dealer website!) as applicable to my vehicle, it is not. It is the Bosch equivalent of Porsche P/N 986 606 12 601, non-OBDII, with the old-style pull-out lock connector. Since it is still in the original unopened shipping box with the seller's (Rock Auto) logo sealing tape intact, I hope I can return it for some credit.

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Agree you have nothing to lose by swapping the sensors. I still recommend you check the voltage directly though as that tells you directly if your sensors are bad (e.g., flat line, not touching 0.1 and 0.7v) or the cats are bad (postcat voltage following precat voltage). Lemur blue can log sensors http://www.lemurmonitors.com/Sample-BlueDriver-Live-Data-Log.csv To get the best possible resolution, it's best to minimize the number of sensors logged so in this case just the 4 sensors.

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Well, the saga continues. The graph you posted shows mass airflow rates, as I read it. Called Lemur, and according to the rep I Talked to, the Blue Driver does not support reading O2 sensor voltages on the Boxster. If you know different and can point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it.

I reinstalled the O2 sensors on the opposite sides, cleared the codes, and went for a drive. Most test monitors showed complete immediately. The two that have been slower, Catalyst, Evap as well as SAI showed incomplete. After driving for about 10 miles at 65 mph, the catalyst monitor showed complete. This is the pattern from before, the evap was the last to reset, the SAI never did. Then I did a very sudden stop, and immediately a pending code P1126 came up. Within a minute, it went to a full code and the CEL came on. For no particular reason other than what else can I do, I did a full throttle acceleration to 7000 RPM (2nd and 3rd gear, I believe. I was on a virtually deserted country road). I then cleared the code and drove home. It did not reappear. The P0420 has not reared its ugly head. When I got home, the usual lagging monitors, catalyst, evap as well as SAI were not complete.

I'm tempted to buy a Durametric, the cost will be not much more than diagnostic time at the Dealer or the local Porsche-only repair. Plus, the way things are jumping around, today's diagnosis may not be tomorrow's!

Edited by mesutter

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That is strange. The link I sent was just an example, with the maf sensor was selected. Usually these scanner apps will show you a list of sensors supported for your car for you to select. Have you checked if somethng like "O2 sensor voltage bank 1 sensor 1" is on the list? Even a $15 bluetooth scanner can do that. If you use an Android device, you can get a cheap bluetooth scanner and paired it with the Torque app ($5), which is what I use (on my '03 996).

Note that P0420 can be intermittent as your cat becomes marginal so it passes the test sometimes and fails at other times (and CEL tripped). Are you sure you tightened up the sensors good so there's no air leak?

A Durametric will be the best for sure but I still suspect the Lemur driver supports reading the sensor voltage.

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Yes, it turn out the Lemur does, the Lemur rep was mistaken. Under Mode 6 "Live", the Blue Driver lists "wide range O2S" but there is no check box to select it. You have to click on it and a drop-down menu appears allowing the selection of O2 sensor voltages. I'll play around with that tomorrow after educating myself (by re-reading the responses I've gotten) on what I should be seeing. However, I am confused. I see eight (8) voltage measurements listed as follows in the Lemur:

Wide Range O2S: Bank 1 -Sensor 1 - Voltage (PID: 01 24)

Wide Range O2S: Bank 1 -Sensor 2 - Voltage (PID: 01 25)

Wide Range O2S: Bank 1(2) -Sensor 3(1) - Voltage (PID 01 26)

Wide Range O2S: Bank 1(2) -Sensor 4(2) - Voltage (PID: 01 27)

Wide Range O2S: Bank 2(3) -Sensor 1(1)) - Voltage (PID: 01 28)

Wide Range O2S: Bank 2(3) -Sensor 2(2) - Voltage (PID: 01 29)

Wide Range O2S: Bank 2(4) -Sensor 3(1) - Voltage (PID: 01 2A)

Wide Range O2S: Bank 2(4) -Sensor 4(2) - Voltage (PID: 01 2B)

What gives? Four sensors, eight voltage readings?

Edited by mesutter

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Those look like wideband sensors. Ours are narrow band. Do you see these PIDs instead?

PID 01 14 Bank 1 sensor 1 precat

PID 01 15 Bank 1 sensor 2 postcat

PID 01 18 Bank 2 sensor 1 precat

PID 01 19 Bank 2 sensor 2 postcat

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Yes, I see them now! Thanks for the PID references!

BTW, in answer to an earlier post, the sensor threads were coated with anti-seize and firmly tightened.

Edited by mesutter

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Today I figured out how to read the O2 voltages and log them using the BlueDriver. On my initial drive following the O2 Sensor swap, things started out looking normal, but soon the Bank 1 sensors flatlined - #1 at around .130 volts and #2 at about .800 volts. Then I got a pending P0130 code indicating a Bank 1 pre-cat sensor issue. Shortly thereafter, a second pending code came up - P1126 again. That was followed by an illuminated CEL, but the only code was P1126, and the pending P0130 was gone. So I now have to think that the sudden stop pulled something loose, like the intake manifold to throttle body rubber connectors. I tightened all the clamps to no avail. They seemed to be in place.

Then something strange happened. I parked the car for about an hour and a half. When I then drove off, I had the real time voltage monitor screen up, and was watching the outputs. The cold start process seemed the same on both banks, and the after initiall warm up, the two pairs of O2 sensors outputs both appeared to be normal, at least bank one was now basically mimicking bank two. This continued for about seven minutes, then the Bank 1 sensors flatlined again. To me, this suggests one of two things:

1. The vacuum leak is only occurring after the engine warms up, or

2. The O2 sensor has a fault which only manifests itself once IT warms up

The logical test is, of course, is another O2 swap (precats only)

Any thoughts if the result points to #1? What would be a logical source of a leak only with a hot engine?

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions up to this point. BTW, no reoccurrence of the P0420 cat code!

Edited by mesutter

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