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Car sits uneven after rear strut replacement


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I replaced my passenger rear trut yesterday as a complete spring/strut assembly.  Everything went well and I didn't have any issues, that I noticed.  I went down the road and noticed that my steering wheel no longer sat straight but I didn't have a pull either way either.  I stopped and looked and noticed that the corner of the car opposite of the replaced strut was sitting lower.  I figure there may be some settling of the new assembly needed but after checking everything for tightness and driving 150 miles, I saw no difference.  Anyone ever see this before?

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I replaced my passenger rear trut yesterday as a complete spring/strut assembly.  Everything went well and I didn't have any issues, that I noticed.  I went down the road and noticed that my steering wheel no longer sat straight but I didn't have a pull either way either.  I stopped and looked and noticed that the corner of the car opposite of the replaced strut was sitting lower.  I figure there may be some settling of the new assembly needed but after checking everything for tightness and driving 150 miles, I saw no difference.  Anyone ever see this before?

 

I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded.  Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing.  Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear.

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I replaced my passenger rear trut yesterday as a complete spring/strut assembly.  Everything went well and I didn't have any issues, that I noticed.  I went down the road and noticed that my steering wheel no longer sat straight but I didn't have a pull either way either.  I stopped and looked and noticed that the corner of the car opposite of the replaced strut was sitting lower.  I figure there may be some settling of the new assembly needed but after checking everything for tightness and driving 150 miles, I saw no difference.  Anyone ever see this before?

 

I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded.  Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing.  Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear.

 

 

 

That's what I effed up (forgot!).  Loading the suspension.  Easy fix though!  Thank you!

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I replaced my passenger rear trut yesterday as a complete spring/strut assembly.  Everything went well and I didn't have any issues, that I noticed.  I went down the road and noticed that my steering wheel no longer sat straight but I didn't have a pull either way either.  I stopped and looked and noticed that the corner of the car opposite of the replaced strut was sitting lower.  I figure there may be some settling of the new assembly needed but after checking everything for tightness and driving 150 miles, I saw no difference.  Anyone ever see this before?

 

I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded.  Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing.  Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear.

 

I'm back.  I went back to the car to fix this error and I'm having a brain fart.  I'm now not sure of which retaining bolts you're talking about.  I removed the strut by removing the caliper, axle at the transmission only and both eccentrics to allow the assembly to swing down and forward to have the clearance to remove the strut assembly.  I marked the positions on the eccentrics before disassembly and placed them back perfectly afterwards.

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I replaced my passenger rear trut yesterday as a complete spring/strut assembly.  Everything went well and I didn't have any issues, that I noticed.  I went down the road and noticed that my steering wheel no longer sat straight but I didn't have a pull either way either.  I stopped and looked and noticed that the corner of the car opposite of the replaced strut was sitting lower.  I figure there may be some settling of the new assembly needed but after checking everything for tightness and driving 150 miles, I saw no difference.  Anyone ever see this before?

 

I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded.  Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing.  Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear.

 

I'm back.  I went back to the car to fix this error and I'm having a brain fart.  I'm now not sure of which retaining bolts you're talking about.  I removed the strut by removing the caliper, axle at the transmission only and both eccentrics to allow the assembly to swing down and forward to have the clearance to remove the strut assembly.  I marked the positions on the eccentrics before disassembly and placed them back perfectly afterwards.

 

 

Even though you marked the eccentrics and/or other fasteners, you should not torque them to their final settings until the car's weight is sitting on the suspension, otherwise you are "pre-loading" the suspension in a non running configuration.  You can do this with the car sitting on its tires, or by setting it down on a jack stand as close to the wheel carrier as possible, and then applying final torque.

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I was always taught to change struts and/or springs in pairs.  When you change only one side, even if the part is the exact same part number, the old spring that you didn't replace has been through several heating and cooling cycles from driving.  It has settled  some from vehicle weight and will sit lower.  You said that you changed it as a complete assembly.  There is a compensation plate between the top of the spring and the upper mount assembly.  Over time, this rubber/neoprene plate will compress and the spring will compress into the part.  Thus the strut /spring assembly will sit lower than the new strut/spring assembly and you can get a vehicle with a high corner.  This can create unpredictable (and potentially dangerous) handling.  You don't state how many miles were on the old struts put the older they are, the greater the potential ride height difference from the new assembly.

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You should also be doing this on a level surface side to side.  You can get away with a gentle slope front to back, but side to side is important.  You can do this by running the car onto blocks which you have checked for level with a long spirit level.  You only need one block which matches the floor level on the opposite side.

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Thanks, that did the trick.  It's lined back up even and as straight as before but rides better with the new strut.  

 

 

I was always taught to change struts and/or springs in pairs.  When you change only one side, even if the part is the exact same part number, the old spring that you didn't replace has been through several heating and cooling cycles from driving.  It has settled  some from vehicle weight and will sit lower.  You said that you changed it as a complete assembly.  There is a compensation plate between the top of the spring and the upper mount assembly.  Over time, this rubber/neoprene plate will compress and the spring will compress into the part.  Thus the strut /spring assembly will sit lower than the new strut/spring assembly and you can get a vehicle with a high corner.  This can create unpredictable (and potentially dangerous) handling.  You don't state how many miles were on the old struts put the older they are, the greater the potential ride height difference from the new assembly.

 

 

I know, I know... So was I but the wife isn't working right now, the holidays are here so money is tight and I had a bunch of things come up at once... brakes, strut, oil change, MAF sensor..... So I'm repairing as I can.

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Thanks, that did the trick.  It's lined back up even and as straight as before but rides better with the new strut.  

 

 

I was always taught to change struts and/or springs in pairs.  When you change only one side, even if the part is the exact same part number, the old spring that you didn't replace has been through several heating and cooling cycles from driving.  It has settled  some from vehicle weight and will sit lower.  You said that you changed it as a complete assembly.  There is a compensation plate between the top of the spring and the upper mount assembly.  Over time, this rubber/neoprene plate will compress and the spring will compress into the part.  Thus the strut /spring assembly will sit lower than the new strut/spring assembly and you can get a vehicle with a high corner.  This can create unpredictable (and potentially dangerous) handling.  You don't state how many miles were on the old struts put the older they are, the greater the potential ride height difference from the new assembly.

 

 

I know, I know... So was I but the wife isn't working right now, the holidays are here so money is tight and I had a bunch of things come up at once... brakes, strut, oil change, MAF sensor..... So I'm repairing as I can.

 

Glad you got it sorted; like a lot of other stuff, the devil is always in the details. :thumbup:

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