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Last week I had to change my 2003 CS engine to 2006 CS engine, due to severe engine scoring in 5;6;7 cylinder. Everything now works fine, but no heating even when I turn up to HI. 

Does anybody had this problem?

no heat means one of to things:

 

1.  coolant electric pump isnt working (turn the heat on with the fan on the lowest notch and see if you hear the electric pump running)

2.  you have a big air bubble which stopping circulation (bleed the system...typically a vacuum bleeder will get things moving)

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Sorry I can't answer your question, but I am interested in hearing more about your engine swap.  Did you do it yourself?  From where did you get the donor engine? 

Yes I did the swap by myself, took me few days. Engine was from another CS that was in accident - rear of the car was badly damaged.

 

And today I found out, that heating comes back after engine is at working temperature and keeping rpm @ 3000. So I guess, main water pump gets enough power then to push antifreeze around the big circle of heating unit. And aux water pump doesn't make any sound, but it did before swap. So I think it could be some wiring problems of this pump, because engine swapping was messy job and I could have pulled some wires accidentally. I will take a look this weekend.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wires all good. Pump works well, when I connected it to battery. 

Could it be some errors on heating system after starting engine without coolant? I had to check if it starts (for 5 seconds max.), when I bolted new engine on the place, before take it all back together.

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Are the waterhoses, on the back of the engine (in the middle of the V) well connected in the right order? There are 3 or 4 of them and are not connected in the logical way. 

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  • 1 month later...

I just bought a ctt and had Coolant usage, over heating at idle only, cold heater at idle until revs above 1500rpm and could here water sloshing around the car pipes that run to the back heater.

First I changed the expansion cap as it's the cheapest item, then replaced the water pump as this can wear out causing low flow. After this work was done I was topping up Coolant thinking air was bleeding but after a few cold system top ups it was clear I had bigger issues.

Suspected head Gasket was confirmed.

Now spending a pretty penny on the repair.

To help you on this one, first I suggest cold filling top ups, the system takes 18-22 litres if you have 4 zone and air can get stuck so vacuum bleed is a good idea, also if can park on a slope front facing up and leave the car overnight you may get any air out of the rear heater pipes etc. You can also remove skid plate (if fitted) under drivers (left side) to reveal two Coolant pipes which can be sqeezed to help bleed the rear heater and pipes, of course with front and rear heaters on and engine running at normal operating temp.

Assuming all Refitment was down correctly, the thermostat opens, no radiator blockage, next step is to chemical check the coolant for head Gasket failure like I suffered. Good luck

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