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By Charles Bradley
My drivers' side headlight was replaced by the dealership after an accident. It has worked fine for two years since, but recently decided to stop working. I get a "check dipped beam" message on the cluster as a result. The turn signals work, as does a single little light on the outer side of the assembly. The main and high beam do not.
After taking it out to inspect, I noticed that the electrical harness connector on the back was the problem. When I could force it into the headlights socket, the lights all powered up and worked fine, as did the high beam. So a poor connection is the culprit.
One of the tabs on the side of the white connector was broken off, so the connector wiggles in its place. I imagine that the force of the headlight being pushed back wiggled it just enough that it wouldnt' seat into the headlight assembly. But getting that white connector into the socket and then back into its place without being able to get my hand in from the rear of the light was not apparent. I also noted that the insulation on all the wires was terribly frayed and coming off in my hands as I examined it.
But with a new connector in hand, I don't see how to wiggle the old one out. It slides in from the side on the back of the tray holding the headlight assembly, but is blocked from sliding out all the way.
How do I rectify this?
I have a 2004 Cayenne S. I just got it recently, interior lights have never worked. I checked the fuse and it was blown. It calls for a 20 amp fuse but the blown one in it was a 25 amp. I had the key in the ignition if I remember correctly and put the new 20 amp fuse in and everything came on. Side note, I noticed a weird glitch with the light above the rear passenger side door and the switch on the main map reading light. The interior lights had gone off and I turned the back on and the backlight above to passenger side door was very dim. I slid the switch on the overhead console for the main map light and the rear light came back to full strength. I found that odd. Everything then worked fine. I took the key out. Next time I put the key in, immediately heard the fuse blow. Any ideas on where to start?
Hey everyone, i own a 2010 porsche Boxter 2.9L with the PDK transmission.. yesterday after leaving the car for a 4 days i started it and went for a drive.. when i turned it on again, i got a warning message “emergency transmission run” and the car became very jerky through gearshifts and wouldnt accelerate properly.. after turning it on and off the message went away and it drove just fine but then it kept re-appearing mid drives and becomes very jerky and clunky...ive noticed since i had the car that the gearbox was sometimes clunky or would make a noise when changing gear but the dealership said that was fine and normal since its a PDK, the car is at 59,000km so its time for a transmission fluid change... could this be a low voltage problem, or transmission fluid? The reverse gear works just fine.. has this happened to any other owners?
When battery is dead the electrical system is down, as is the trunk for accessing battery.
I have tried connecting positive to red fuse and negative to door arm. I ran current using jump starter but could not get latch to open. Does anyone have any other ideas to open truck, e.g. force lift? Thanks in advance.
Is this also true for current year C4S?
Quote for 1999 911: <<There should be a release cable under one of the headlights. You need to use something to fish it out. If you do a search at renntech.org you will find it.>>
By Jared Imapirate
I am currently trying to repair my 2001 Boxster 2.7 as the coolant temperature gauge no longer reads and the coolant light is flashing at about 1 hz. The coolant temperature sensor pigtail had broken wires too close to the connector itself to effectively solder back together. I searched for several days and couldnt find anyone selling a specifically designated coolant temperature sensor pigtail, but the engine knock sensor pigtail seemed to fit. I installed that part and reconnected the wires with a good soldered connection and plugged everything in, unplugged the battery for about 10 minutes to reset the code, restarted the engine and was greeted with the same flashing light. The coolant temp sensor itself has been replaced, the coolant level is solid and the engine has been burped. Several times. Any thoughts?