Strut Top Nut Sizes on 997.2 w/ PASM

[nwGTS 0]

Anybody know the size of the top nut on the Front AND Rear struts for a 997.2 GTS 6MT w/ PASM?

 

I need to buy the open sockets to remove the top nuts for a lowering spring install and can only find 997.1 non PASM info.

[Bruce in Philly 1]

20mm for the fronts for my 2009 C2S with PASM    I don't know if the rears were different.

 

I just replaced all four shocks and found it a tough job.  One of the issues was the bolt sizes denoted in all the 997.1 were all wrong for my 997.2 and I had to run out and buy wrenches.  In short, I needed every darn bolt size.   They used every size that was NOT included in sets sold at Autozone... I had to buy a bunch of solo wrenches.   I didn't inventory them, but just get like ALL of them.  With PASM on the 997.2 you have this crazy washer under the nut.  It is no problem in the rear as the shaft stays put when you turn the nut (loosen on the car, then remove the shock).  For the fronts, you have this crazy bronze washer that turns with the shaft.  It has nubs that accept some sort of mystery tool.  When you turn the nut, the shaft and washer turn so you can't break the **** thing free.  I used a huge plumbers pipe wrench on it to counter the nut.

 

To summarize, the 997.1 instructions out there are not quite correct as the 997.2 has differences.  That is OK, but you will also need a tie rod puller.... you must remove one end of a rear control arm in the rear to remove the lower shock bolt.  No way could I do this without the puller (get the large one).  Also, you will need another floor jack for the rears... you will need to place it under the edge of the shock to push it up a tiny bit to remove pressure off of the bolt.  The shock, even with the springs compressed, applies pressure on the carrier and therefore the shock bolt is jammed tight.  By placing a floor jack and just catching the edge of the shock, you can compress the shock to remove pressure.

 

Another quick tip:  you do NOT have to compress the springs on the front shocks to remove them from the car.  Don't waste you time doing this.  I suspect, you don't need the compressors for the rears either, especially if you use the floor jack as I noted... but I only realized this after I did the work on the rears.  You will need the spring compressors once the shocks are off of the car to then disassemble the strut.

 

Ping me if you have any more specific questions.

 

Peace,

Bruce in Philly

 

The Evil Washer, nut is removed:

Edited March 22, 2016 by Bruce in Philly

[nwGTS 0]

Hey there Bruce. Thanks for the info.

 

It's interesting that yours is a 20mm.  Since my initial post I grabbed a 21mm socket, undid the PASM cable, fed it through the socket and the 21mm fits snugly to the front top nut.  I can't get to the rears yet but I assume like everyone else mentions that they are 19mm.

 

 I've also heard a plumbers wrench will do the trick on that slotted washer.  I may just spring for the slotting tool but the cheapest I've seen it it $140.  We'll see.

 

Just so I'm clear, you used the tie rod puller to break the rear LCA ball joint from the hub?  Is that what you're saying?  I had planned on that and have a ball joint separator (screw kind.. not fork) but had not heard anyone else mention anything about pulling another one of the control arms needing a puller.

Edited March 22, 2016 by nwGTS

[Bruce in Philly 1]

Sorry about the nut size...... I could have sworn it was 20mm.

 

The tie rod puller......  It was to remove a control arm but not the bottom one.  You don't have to remove that lower arm, the one with the three bolts.  The rear shock on the 997.2 is a little different on the bottom and there is a control arm really close.  You just can't pull the bolt out without removing it.  This control arm that is in the way, I just removed the near bolt with the puller..... then had a friend bend it away with a crow bar... the other end is rubber bushing and it will move.     I remember I was tightening that puller down so darn tight, I though I was going to break something or was doing something wrong... when shooop, the bolt released.  If you try wacking the bolt, you will damage it.

 

Good luck,

 

Bruce in Philly