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Multiple fault codes on early 2008 Carrera S

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G'Day... new to forum and my first 911 after 40 years of dreaming and running too many various hot VW's and rotors : )


I have an early 2008 Australian delivered Carrera 2S that had a engine light - go to garage - come on after a rough idle and stall at the lights. I have done nearly 6000 k's since buying the car, and yes I have been using the performance, including a run down the drag strip a couple of weeks previous (13.3 @ 115mph)


I have taken it to a local German specialist (we have no Porsche dealer nearby) and the fault codes that it is throwing up are P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire), P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), and P0011A (Camshaft position system performance), with Bank 1 deviation 13 degrees ! The mechanic also noted P0401 (control deviation) and P0016 (Crankshaft to camshaft position) !!!! HELP ?


The car has been dealer serviced annually and has 116000 km on the clock.


To me it appears to run fine, from the drivers seat anyway, after reset the engine light has gone off and initially stayed off for a couple days then returned, hence took it to mechanic that looks after wife's GTI and sons Audi as they are all German trained and appear to know their stuff. (Good local reputation, that can't be said of Porsche dealer that is more than 4 hours away)


The mechanic can't do anything for a couple of weeks so I have brought the car home on a tilt tray and was hoping someone out there may be able to point me in the right direction...


He has suggested, stretched cam chain ?, broken chain guide ?, and suggested the only real option is engine and gearbox out before they can even assess what it is. Obviously I am a little concerned as this was a big spend downunder for what appeared to be an immaculate car... three months of ownership and I am looking at the engine out, many $$$$ with no ability to get a quote as they have no idea what the real issue is.


It starts fine and I idled it off the transporter and parked it up.


Any assistance or ideas are appreciated.



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Camshaft deviation on Bank 1 is well over spec.

It it were mine, my first step whilst the car is parked up would be to remove, dissect and open out the oil filter to determine if any/how many particles have been trapped - magnetic or otherwise, and their colour.

Do you have a Durametric and, if so, is the deviation constant or fluctuating on a warm, running engine?

Edited by wizard
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Thanks Wizard... I don't have the Durametric, I was quoting the codes the mechanic gave me. Are you suggesting it may be a chain guide ?


The deviation seemed a bit scary to me, but can't understand how it runs with such a discrepancy... or do the electronics sort it out ?


Seems to run fine and just goes into a rough idle occasionally, Toby (mechanic) says it sounds 'a bit rattly' on that bank.

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It could be a number of things. As I suggested, I'd first look at what's been trapped in the oil filter - metallic (not magnetic, iPad auto-correct !!) or otherwise.


If you are paying for diagnostics, it might be an idea from both a cost and convenience standpoint to invest in the basic Durametric. From experience, it more than recovers its cost outlay.

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As I understand it, it's not necessary to drain the oil when removing the filter. You might want to check that through Google.

Whilst underneath, you might also have a look at the integrity of the coil packs and spark plugs on that bank - and also an earth I believe. That may or may not be a contributory factor.

R&R. I imagine that it would greatly depend on one's mechanical skill and equipment available. It would be far beyond my capabilities I think !

Once again, Googling that turns up a wealth of information, including YouTube videos of the entire process.

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Having read that misfires can throw off deviation readings, there's a possibility that the problems originate from the coil packs, i.e. a comparatively easy fix.


That will depend initially, of course, on what you find on the dissected oil filter. For want of a proper magnet, I usually run a fridge magnet across it to separate out the metallic stuff.


I'm sure that you've already looked at the posts tagged below this one.


Do you have a record of when or if your coil packs have been replaced and, were you by any chance driving in heavy rain when the CEL came on ?


You might also care to listen to each bank whilst the engine is idling. I've found sticking my ear to the plastic-handled end of a long screwdriver works in order to discern audible differences between the banks. 


Until you've got a clearer direction as to the problem, I'd be reluctant to drive the car.


Caveat : I am not a mechanic - just an enthusiast who has an owned-from-new 2003 Boxster. So, please feel free to ignore any or all of my suggestions :-) 

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You can switch coil pack #1 with coil pack #4 from bank 2. Clear the codes and see what comes back.  You'll need the Durametric to clear the codes.  I would drain the oil and remove sump pump cover and see what is at the bottom of the sump as well as dissecting the filter.  Also testing the oil could also help determine exactly what's going on.


If you use the Durametric to check the cam angles, make sure to have the car up to temperature for a least twenty minutes or more to ensure you get the correct readings.

Edited by kbrandsma
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