Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

 

I'm a noob to this forum looking for some advice if possible. My car is a 1998 996 911 C2. Last year I had an issue with a cam shaft positioning sensor that meant my car had gear change issues at high revs in either manual or full auto modes. It would get to the point of changing gear in either mode and would struggle to change and if looking at the dash the LED's would jump between the gear selected and manual/auto modes.

 

This was identified that a reluctor ring on the cam shaft itself was bent so not allowing the positioning sensor to identify the cam shaft speed.

 

I had the engine removed and this issue rectified along with the LN IMS bearing upgrade, new oil separator, new oil filter, oil change & new rear main seal on the engine going back in. This was just shy of £2k of parts & labour at the end of last summer.

 

I have hardly driven the car since this (few hundred miles) as I had it moth balled over winter as was considering selling it and wanted to not put any miles on (76k on clock).

 

I've been driving the car recently. It starts perfectly and sounds sweet but I think the above fault has come back. 

 

Just looking to see if anybody else has encountered a similar fault and what would be the best path to take from here? Should I go back to the same service centre asking them to re-check the issue or get a second opinion. I can't afford many more £2k bills on the car!!!

 

Thanks all in advance...

 

Ash

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Garra671
      Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays).   The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF.

      I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving.  

      Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today.

      However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄


      Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor?    Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor)   

      THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
    • By crwarren11
      Hi all,
      2000 Boxster Tiptronic with 113k mi.  I recently removed the transmission to deal with another issue, but while doing so some of the brittle SAI hoses cracked and/or became disassembled.  I have replaced the cracked lines (i.e. not all of the lines) and reconnected according to the following picture, with the exception that I have a Tiptronic and there is a hose that runs to a changeover valve on the transmission:

      I get the typical SAI codes, P0410 (80) and P1411 (208), about every 150mi driven.  Otherwise the car drives great...SAI pump is running and holding air as usual.
       
      Presumably, I have something connected incorrectly, possibly with respect to connection to the transmission changeover valve.  The one thing I notice different than before removing the transmission is that the car seems to be running cooler than before.  I suspect this could be caused by the changeover valve for the transmission as I think it controls the flow of coolant to the ATF cooler (not sure about this and hoping for clarification).  The other thing that I don't really suspect, is that the new hoses used do not have the small bulbed end to help with that snap-fit into the intake sleeves. 
       
      I have not found a good image showing the SAI hose routing for a 986 Tiptronic, so if anyone knows of one I would be very grateful.  I have the Bentley manual which also does not show a Tiptronic-specific diagram for SAI routing.
       
      Any other ideas or does this sound like simply incorrect hose connections?
       
      Many thanks for your input!
       
       
    • By Angel Martin
      I need to replace the ATF wiring harness in my 2002 986 w/ tiptronic due to a defective temperature sensor that forms part of it. I have been unable to find any information as to what it entails and / or how it can be replaced.   Appreciate any insight. 
    • By Christiaan Poortman
      Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997.
       
      The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight.
       
      Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM. 
       
      The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal)
       
      I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything.
       
      No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either. 
       
      Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug
       
      Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?

    • By StevieG
      Hi Porsche Gurus
      I’m trying to troubleshoot a little issue I have that just my drivers door courtesy lights (and drivers sunvisor light but not sure if that’s different issue) don’t work, both the red and white ones and only the one door(rhd car) 
      now ive checked the common things like all the fuses and the wiring to see if they were damaged or corroded but they seem fine,
      The one thing I would like to check but can not find any info on is where or what is the switch or sensor that tells the lights that the door is open to turn the lights on? 
      If I can find that then that will at least eliminate all manual fixes that I can think of unless any of you have come across this before, if it’s something simple and I look like a fool for not thinking of it then I’m happy to be a fool as long as the lights work:)
      any help would be much appreciated 
      thanks 
      Stevie G 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.