Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
JuncoJones

PO492 error code on a Boxster 986 / 987 / Carrera 996 / 997

Recommended Posts

Here’s a quick tutorial on how to fix a P0492 error code on a Boxster 986 / 987 / Carrera 996 / 997.

 

Error: P0492 – Porsche fault code 208 – Secondary-air system bank 2

 

Symptoms: no visible symptoms, except for the CEL (check-engine light) being triggered, particularly during cold engine startups with the SAI (Secondary Air Injection) pump running for the first 90 seconds.

 

Diagnostics: when troubleshooting the P0492 error code, I initially focused my attention on all SAI components located on top of the engine, such as the SAI pump, hoses, solenoids, vacuum hoses and reservoir, etc.

 

I found it easier to remove all vacuum components and work on a workbench and running individual tests, with the invaluable help of a handheld vacuum tool. I did find the vacuum reservoir had a leak, and one vacuum line was damaged (mostly brittle due to heat / time). Also tested both solenoids with a 12-V DC power supply and then replaced the damaged components with new ones. The CEL was off for a few days, but it came back on, throwing the same error code.

 

With great help of Ahsai on troubleshooting the O2 sensors readings during a cold startup cycle (thread here), it looked like the problem was an obstruction in one of the paths used by the SAI pump to blow cold air form the engine compartments into the catalytic converters. And because I didn’t wanted to work on my car during the cold season, I parked the project for the winter and lived with the CEL on for many months, certainly one of my joys in life ;)

 

Solution: When the first nice spring days finally arrived, I used the opportunity to do this and other maintenance jobs in my car, like deep cleaning after the winter season (It’s my all-year-round daily driver), two axle rebuild job, etc.

 

With regards to the exhaust manifolds removal procedure, where a broken bolt can quickly become a nightmare, I had already done some prep-work on all manifold bolts: driving the car until reaching running temperature, quickly jacking-up the car and loosen all exhaust bolts while still hot, thoroughly cleaned, anti-seize and remount. This method, while not everyone’s cup of tea, ended up being quite effective in my case.

 

And when I finally removed both exhaust manifolds, where I was originally expecting lots of carbon buildups, I instead found a soft clay-like product (oil?), which was quite easy to remove with a finger nail (through the gloves, of course ;).

 

I thoroughly pressure-washed all components, carefully avoiding to send the water jet directly into the exhaust valves / catalytic converters and the use of any degreasers. A 2,000 psi electric pressure-washer with a 10 degree spread nozzle can be extremely effective, particularly at short distances. Attached is a picture of the engine block after the pressure-washing job.

 

Finally, a grey Scotch-brite, well lubricated in oil, for mirror-like surface finishes (well, in most cases). It honestly looked amazing… too bad I forgot to take a picture… my apologies.

Finishing-up with another thorough cleanup of all exhaust bolts, a new thin layer of anti-seize and a complete car reassembly, and my P0492 error code is finally gone, hopefully for good!

 

Cheers,

Jones

post-28257-0-90788500-1462677361_thumb.p

post-28257-0-44071100-1462677372_thumb.j

post-28257-0-37629400-1462677383_thumb.j

post-28257-0-99758600-1462677391_thumb.j

Edited by JuncoJones

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

The passages in the exhaust port from the picture you showed, is that where the cold  air from the sai is pumping into and then go into each cylinder? 

 

Also how does the air passage work from the top cross over pipe down to the exhaust port? My car is having the same cel. I tried using compressed air through the top hole and it's blocked off, no air good through. 

 

Weird because the top hole from the cross over pipe is on the block but the exhaust channel in your picture is on the great, wonder how the air gets routed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cameron,

 

When both the pump is ON and the solenoid is open, air  from the engine bay is pumped directly into the catalytic converters. In the picture of the exhaust, you can see the bottom part of the pass-thru hole between both cylinder ports.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By crwarren11
      Hi all,
      2000 Boxster Tiptronic with 113k mi.  I recently removed the transmission to deal with another issue, but while doing so some of the brittle SAI hoses cracked and/or became disassembled.  I have replaced the cracked lines (i.e. not all of the lines) and reconnected according to the following picture, with the exception that I have a Tiptronic and there is a hose that runs to a changeover valve on the transmission:

      I get the typical SAI codes, P0410 (80) and P1411 (208), about every 150mi driven.  Otherwise the car drives great...SAI pump is running and holding air as usual.
       
      Presumably, I have something connected incorrectly, possibly with respect to connection to the transmission changeover valve.  The one thing I notice different than before removing the transmission is that the car seems to be running cooler than before.  I suspect this could be caused by the changeover valve for the transmission as I think it controls the flow of coolant to the ATF cooler (not sure about this and hoping for clarification).  The other thing that I don't really suspect, is that the new hoses used do not have the small bulbed end to help with that snap-fit into the intake sleeves. 
       
      I have not found a good image showing the SAI hose routing for a 986 Tiptronic, so if anyone knows of one I would be very grateful.  I have the Bentley manual which also does not show a Tiptronic-specific diagram for SAI routing.
       
      Any other ideas or does this sound like simply incorrect hose connections?
       
      Many thanks for your input!
       
       
    • By Karl Owen
      CEL went off over the weekend, Durametric showed a P2190 code.
      Car is a 2007 C4S coupe w/ Tip at 69,000 miles. Basically bone stock, serviced at the dealer.
       
      After checking with Durametric I opened the hood and noticed that the hose clamp connecting the wide Y hose from the airbox onto the intake manifold came loose. So I though there is a vacuum leak, took off the airbox, replaced the airfilter, cleaned the MAF. noticed a few ml of oil-like fluid inside the throttle body just at the level of the butterfly flap; so I cleaned that up. Tightened oil fill and gas caps. Reconnected everything, cleared the code but now it came back a day later. I have an appointment with the dealer in a few days. 

      Any suggestions what I can do to maybe fix this on my own? Many thanks
    • By FStallcup
      I have 2000 Porsche Boxster S that is misfiring on nearly every cylinder. It started with symptoms of a bad MAF; typical sluggish on take off, CEL light with the corresponding code. I would disconnect the wiring from the MAF and it would clear up. I cleaned the MAF and plenum and it ran perfectly for about a day. Ordered a new MAF. By before I had a chance to put the new one in I got a flashing CEL and a massive loss of power. Put in the new MAF. It cleared up some idle issues but the loss of power and flashing CEL is still there. The codes show random misfire and misfire on 2,3,4,5, and 6. I've also changed the spark plugs but it has had no effect.
    • By pike1181
      Hey guys,
       
      So I'm having this issue that is driving me crazy. My SAI (Secondary AIr Injection) and Oxygen Sensor are not reaching "Ready Status"

      A little background about my car. 
      2006 Boxster S 3.2L
      FVD Exhaust system
      GMS Headers with 200 cell cats - has all 4 O2 sensors attached.
      996 throttle body and distribution hose
      ECU Tuning Group tune
       
      I had the car up in BC Canada since 2009 (although it is a US car) and had no problems passing the sniffer and obdII tests - both before and after all the mods except for the ECU tune. 
       
      I went to get my emissions testing done last week in Texas and failed due to the 2 systems being in not-ready status. I figured it might have to do with the cat delete ( ROW) configured in the tune. I sent my ECU back to ETG in California and had them re-flash my ECU in order to re-enable the O2 sensors. 
      I cleared all codes and figured I would start fresh. I drove the car about 120 miles and attempted to follow the drive cycle mentioned in the forums but it was really tough with the roads out here. Everything is in ready status except for the SAI, and the O2 sensor. I can manually start the SAI using the Durametric system so I would believe the pump is not bad; however, I'm not
      sure that I"m hearing the SAI start up when I cold start the engine.
       
      For testing purposes I unplugged my O2 sensors from both bank1 and  bank2 and they both threw fault codes which confirms that the ECU tune re-activated my sensors. 
       
      I've uploaded a few pictures with the results from a OBDII app as well as the Durametric Software to my Google Drive. I'm not quite sure how to interpret the Durametric Voltage results - especially the negative 50 V and -127V - seems quite odd. 
      https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ncE-o5M02DeUlLZVlxRV9hX3c
       
      Any help or guidance will be appreciated as I'm out of ideas.  
       
      Thanks,
      Joel
       
    • By JuncoJones
      Hi there folks,
      I’m having some random misfires in my ’03 Boxster. I’ve disassembled the intake manifold to get a better understanding of the problem, and as per the picture below, there is clearly something going on with cylinder-1.
      a week ago, CEL came on for random misfires in cylinder-1 (P0301) Engine runs well, has high millage (320km) and no noticeable degradation in performance Checked the coolant, and was below the minimum mark (which was flushed a couple of months ago) On the exhaust side, there are dripping marks, probably coolant leaking through the exhaust manifold gasket (!) All this makes me think that it’s leaking coolant through the head gasket into cylinder-1. I already know this is not a four-hour repair to be completed during a weekend, and that one way or another, the engine will have to come down for surgery. . so I'll definitively appreciate any inputs!
       
      Thanks,
      Jones.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.