Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Anyone else tried this?

"The GT3 Motorsport seal (not a Porsche standard part) is the same bore size as the 996/997 seal but has two protective flanges at the rear. If fitted in reverse the inner flange forces itself to flip backwards and touch the outer flange which is already forced onto the crank with a spring. This prevents any oil from possibly leaking even if the bore is out of tolerance."

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Porsche came out with a PTFE replacement RMS about  six or seven years back that has now replace the original seal design for the 986/996/997 cars.  The PTFE seal has proven itself to be a bullet proof replacement for the original Viton seal, although it must be installed at a different depth from the crank flange face, requiring a special tool.  The GT motorsport seal apparently was designed to deal with larger tolerances and became a popular, if expensive, replacement until the PTFE seal hit the market (the PTFE seal retails for less than $20).  The only applications (on the street) now for the GT3 seal is on the early engine cases that test out of round for the standard seal and therefore need the beefier GT seal.

 

We literally have hundreds of the PTFE seals on the street (and track), and have never seen or heard of one leaking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By afilsinger
      I am starting to prepare my car for a track day at Chuckwalla valley raceway at the end of the month, and I was told that the car as it sits has oiling issues?  My car is a 2003 Carrera.  I bought the car last year with 74k miles and immediately did the following:  LN IMS bearing, Waterpump, coil packs, spark plugs, all filters and fluids, clutch + flywheel and a stock AOS. In anticipation of the event, I am going to do an oil change from M1 0w-40 to the Joe Gibbs dt40 oil suggested by Jake Raby along with fresh filters.  Is there anything else I need to do to not have oil starvation?  Is this issue blown out of proportion?  does the 2qt sump extension make that much of a difference? will it affect the streetability?  I am running 200tw tires.  
    • By leSundancekid
      Hello everyone, I am new to the forum. I own a 98, bone stock, manual Carrera and here is my attempt at scattering the clouds over 996. Hope you'll like & share.
       
       
    • By HomePro
      I plan to replace the RMS and IMSB on my 2003, Carrera, Coupe, 3.6, Tiptronic.  I have read about the MB version of the Tiptronic requiring the removal of the trans/engine together while the ZF can be removed separately.  Is this true and how can I determine which one that I have?  I crawled underneath and could not see an I.D. tag.  So far I have found conflicting information regarding the trans. in this car.
    • By paulmichaelmcg
      I'm looking for advice in maintaining my well kept 2000 Boxster.

      In 2003, I bought a 2000 base Boxster with 14,000 miles (manufactured 11/99, 2.7L, MT) from a Porsche dealer in Massachusetts, where I primarily reside.  The car now has just under 40,000 miles.  So I've only driven it 26,000 miles in 13 years, and I have had no major problems.  I had maintenance done by the dealer initially for about 5 years, but then switched to a more local independent mechanic with a good reputation, as the dealer was over an hour's drive each way.  
       
      Last year I bought a condo in Naples, FL, and decided to drive the car down and leave it there.  My mechanic replaced the engine drive belt as a preventive measure before the drive south, and the car was excellent for the long ride.   Other than that, over the years, I've mostly only had routine and timely oil changes, plugs, and filters.  I replaced the top and the tires a couple of years ago.  The CEL did come on at times about a year ago, but it could not be reliably diagnosed.  The mechanic suspected an O2 sensor.  But the light since went off and all seems well since.  Sometimes I can get a puff of smoke when I start it, especially after it was sitting for an extended period, but this resolves when the car is driven more regularly.  I believe I have a good storage protocol for the times the car is idle.
       
      In recent years, the AC has been declining.  The mechanic added refrigerant periodically, which worked for perhaps a year at a time.  I am due for that at least, if not more at this point, as there is no cold at all now.  In Massachusetts, this was less of an issue, but now I want to get that more correctly resolved.  The AC seems more noisy than it was previously (up front?), so I imagine there's a leak or other issue.  
       
      Outside of the AC problem, the car is operating perfectly as far as I can tell.  I drive it about 5 weeks a year while in Florida.  It is in excellent cosmetic condition, barely a scratch, and always garaged.  I'd like to continue to operate the car in this manner indefinitely for the next several years, and hope to spend increasingly more time (winter) in Florida as time passes.  Does anyone have any advice for me as to how I should proceed with this car?  It looks and drives like new.  I'm not a mechanic.  I hear and read about the IMS bearing, the AOS, and other issues.  I've not had the brakes or clutch done, but they seem fine.  Even the battery is from 2003 and the car starts right up.  
       
      So I appreciate any advice moving forward.  Should I have some of these things dealt with preemptively, instead of waiting for a more expensive failure?  I'd like to bring the car in for maintenance and hope I can find a conscientious and competent mechanic to assist me.  Does anyone have any recommendations for a local mechanic and/or the dealer in Naples?  Would anyone recommend going to an "AC specialist" type place for that one particular issue over a mechanic or the dealer?
       
      Thanks, Paul.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.