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Turbo / MAF replacement, Oil found


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1 hour ago, hahnmgh63 said:

I've got an old 2001 Audi TT 225bhp that I use as a commuter. For that you have the Beru coils or Hitachi. All the forums say don't use the Beru, use the Hitachi coils. I've had a set of the Hitachi coils in there for over 12yrs as the original Beru coils failed after about 3yrs. Just saying, Beru coils have a bad reputation on other forums too, but they manufactured enough versions of the 1.8T motors to use more than one OEM supplier so there is a choice, wish we had a choice.

Well we do in fact have a choice "Huco", weather it's a better choice I have no idea. ECS Tuning is selling this brand for vw Jetta I noticed.. 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/HUCO-Ignition-Coil-Fits-PORSCHE-Cayenne-955-4-5L-2002-2007-/161893121612?nav=SEARCH

 

Anybody want to be the product tester for us all? :clapping:

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Makes you wonder. Many of these options are more expensive that stock or about the same. Wonder if the .21 versions are any better? As it goes Porsche is changing its part number for revisions but if you check Beru's site they've had the same part number all along? Makes you wonder if they've really improved them much at all as it seems like they're regular failures still happening on every version after 3~5yrs of regular service.

I also see the Spectra Premium label? A Canadian company although I don't know if they actually manufacture them in house. I just don't want to end up with a Chinese product that lasts 6mths or less for a few dollars savings.

http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/spectra_oe_replacement_ignition_coils/SPEIG93434/spectraspic793-.aspx#

Edited by hahnmgh63
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7 hours ago, hahnmgh63 said:

Makes you wonder. Many of these options are more expensive that stock or about the same. Wonder if the .21 versions are any better? As it goes Porsche is changing its part number for revisions but if you check Beru's site they've had the same part number all along? Makes you wonder if they've really improved them much at all as it seems like they're regular failures still happening on every version after 3~5yrs of regular service.

I also see the Spectra Premium label? A Canadian company although I don't know if they actually manufacture them in house. I just don't want to end up with a Chinese product that lasts 6mths or less for a few dollars savings.

http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/spectra_oe_replacement_ignition_coils/SPEIG93434/spectraspic793-.aspx#

I think unless someone is a decent company and the price considerably less than Beru I wouldn't consider it. 

I think the Beru coils are susceptible to heat, if someone's cayenne has an aging cooling system which localised cylinder wall heat spikes and the long service life of plugs these days transferring more heat through the plug into the coil must play a factor. I wonder if a more frequent spark replacement and water pump and thermostat schedule replacement at say 100k km would be of any benefit to cool service life? Economically maybe not! Being stranded somewhere vs more maintenance cost? 

I guess this doesn't really address the issue..... Beru pls make better ignition coils. Lol

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  • 2 weeks later...

Came back from my trip to france. Dont want to experience this again. The car was running quiet bad and i was really worried it could become even worse. 

Running like crap. No power. Rough running. Idle floating from time to time. 

 

Checked the coils - found one cracked.

replaced one.

 

now at home i changed all.

same engine behaviour.

 

 

MAF are new. Engine running i disconnected the MAF and to my surprise the same. What the hell is this.

 

 

Dont have a piwis or durametric

Check with my OBD scanning device. Please find the readings. 

Maybe the pros here have a idea whats going on. 

 

I am very worried its a timing issue.

 

what i need to say, the car is showing this behaviour since my indy changed the valve cover gasket and later on the small round seal at the top which is the cam actuator solenoid i believe. What could went wrong during such a job which is causing this problems.

 

thanks a million for your input

 

sorry but i dont know why some pics are upside down

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Onother question regarding coils.

i have about 24 pieces at home. Some are used some are "new", lets say not used.

what i a wondering , is a coil only faulty if its cracked or can be there other problems which are not visibel?

some have a green label with the part number. Some have the part number engraved into the plastic  and some dont have anything. Just some kind of code in front. See pics. How to know which version is this?!

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Here is a nice DIY lesson from pelican.

 

please pay attention to figure 17.

 

is it possible to mess up something with the trigger wheel when changing the gasket and if yes what could

be the result?

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/40-ENGINE-Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement/40-ENGINE-Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement.htm

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5 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Here is a nice DIY lesson from pelican.

 

please pay attention to figure 17.

 

is it possible to mess up something with the trigger wheel when changing the gasket and if yes what could

be the result?

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/40-ENGINE-Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement/40-ENGINE-Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement.htm

Thomas looking at you 5degrees timing at idle and 27degrees at 1100 rpm it is correct, also full trims looks OK within +-6%. Trigger wheel I don't think is the problem! 

The Maf flow is LOW 3 g/s, it should be 6g/s at idle. Rev and hold the engine to 3000rpm it should say around 25-27 g/s. If not then something is wrong! Damaged maf sensor, dirty, covered in oil etc?. Also another test is to measure the maf voltage with engine off ignition on, it should be 1.100volts or it is defective. 

Also you must be sure no coils are failing. If your codes don't relate to individual misfires on cylinders then maybe coils fitted at the moment are ok. 

 

What does the idle feel like? Smooth or rough? Stable of fluctuates? 

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I can post a succesfull repair:clapping:

 

as you read i changed and tried a lot to find out why this car is running so bad. 

Yesterday again all plugs new, checked the coils which are almost new. Changed the new MAF for the old again because thinking there could be a problem. Replaced the venturi tube. 

 

All in all nothing did improve the bad bad running engine.

 

looking arround all the small tubes and hoses i found suddenly a small hose which hang arround. Close to the intake manifold close to the firewall. Its wasnt connected. Slipped from a valve because i was split in the end. Connected and. Wow. The Turbo is back. 

From the very beginning a smoother idle and a almost flueless accelaration. 

Testdrive. Changed again for the new MAF. Testdrive. German Autobahn without speed limit. Wow. Looks like i found the 200 missing horsepower. The car runs very good. Fingers crossed!!!

 

thanks to lewis which constantly pointed me to a vacuum leak.  For me a new lesson.  what difference a single small tube can make which is not connected.

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On 14. September 2016 at 1:26 AM, hahnmgh63 said:

Congrats. When I did my Coolant pipes and 'T's I replaced all of the small vacuum lines I could fine with Silicone vacuum lines which hold up better against aging and heat.

 

My cheers were to early. Now after some days the bad driving is back. I hope its just the small hose which is loose again.  Otherwise i am lost and dont know what to look for next.

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17 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

 

My cheers were to early. Now after some days the bad driving is back. I hope its just the small hose which is loose again.  Otherwise i am lost and dont know what to look for next.

Hi Thomas. If this vac pipe is off again and you didn't get a chance to find some of the clips I suggested, just get some wire and loop it round the pipe and twist tight with some pliers. 

Which maf have you got fitted now? Old, aftermarket new or used oem? 

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21 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Now the new aftermarket MAF's are installed.  Will see, maybe i will change again to see if there is a difference. 

 

Can i drive with MAF's disconnected? What can happen?

Can do, without the maf connected the dme will revert to a reference map for air volume based on the MAP sensor pressure and throttle position amongst other sensors inputs. Short term test should be fine, long term not recommended. 

 

You mentioned the more is no more oil contamination on the driver side maf sensor which is good, what is not known is whether any of the maf sensors you have are faulty or good. The Porsche test is to measure 1.1volts dc when ignition is on and engine off. 

I am getting my new battery tomorrow morning and still hoping my issues might be helped with a new battery as obviously something is wrong with this one probably caused by the alternator. I will see how it runs and then intend to do the maf sensor test myself. I will document how and where to measure on the back of the connector and post for you. 

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On ‎11‎/‎09‎/‎2016 at 5:31 PM, ekstroemtj said:

I can post a succesfull repair:clapping:

 

as you read i changed and tried a lot to find out why this car is running so bad. 

Yesterday again all plugs new, checked the coils which are almost new. Changed the new MAF for the old again because thinking there could be a problem. Replaced the venturi tube. 

 

All in all nothing did improve the bad bad running engine.

 

looking arround all the small tubes and hoses i found suddenly a small hose which hang arround. Close to the intake manifold close to the firewall. Its wasnt connected. Slipped from a valve because i was split in the end. Connected and. Wow. The Turbo is back. 

From the very beginning a smoother idle and a almost flueless accelaration. 

Testdrive. Changed again for the new MAF. Testdrive. German Autobahn without speed limit. Wow. Looks like i found the 200 missing horsepower. The car runs very good. Fingers crossed!!!

 

thanks to lewis which constantly pointed me to a vacuum leak.  For me a new lesson.  what difference a single small tube can make which is not connected.

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Thomas here is the info you need for this little vac pipes.

 

YIMG_20160918_171857.jpgIMG_20160918_162754.jpgou can reach and change the vac pipe no'1 by removing the passenger side Secondary air Pump then you can see the pipe to remove and replace. note the check valve should be tested also.

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12 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Sorry i should have checked more careful. One pic is from backside rest from front. Was confused about the white part seen on opossite direction. 

Except the hoses 6mm/ 4 mm which sizes of tubes i should buy for other culprit areas?

Hard to say as they are little pieces of different shape and size rubber flexible tube pipes, they are mostly thicker tube pipes and none of mine had any damage so I'm sure yours are ok too except the vac pipe which is coming off the little valve which your need to secure with clip or change to new pipe which will make it a tight fit again as Porsche is not using any clips here as you can see. 

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So guys after working arround this engine for several weeks i am just one step more closer to the solution of my problem.

i had a very bad engine running and changed a lot on top of the engine. Plugs, coils. Aftermarket MAF . Venturi tube. Again new BOSCH MAF just today. Jesus.  spent a lot of time. But.... The engine is still not running like it has to. Better but not perfect. The stutter at low rpm during acceleration is much better. But not smooth like a V8 has to be. New MAF helped but there must be something else. I just had a test drive on the highway. Couldnt go that fast because of traffic. 

Gear 6 and 150 kmh / 2700 rpm.

when i am pushing the pedal just a little little bit the boost pressure gauge is jumping up to 0.8. this i hadnt in the past. I feel a hesitation at 3000 / 3500 rpm. 

Dont even want to try a kick down. Who knows what will / can happen. 

As Mark told me once in onother thread:

 

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/906130-overboost-what-could-be.html

 

and Lewis teached me there must be a big big leak somewhere close to the turbos.

 

when i open the hood i feel a slight smell of exhaust gases. Does it point to something?!

Any idea is welcome. 

 

thank you!!!

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So guys, now i am on the point where i need your help please. My car is still running poor at accelaration. Specially at 2500 / 3000 rpm some kind of hesitation and stumbling. 

This never ending story started with a lot of oil on drivers side area down the air hose where the MAF is sitting. 
According to your advice: always go back to the work which was done and check i am ready to do this. Before i would like to ask, which components could cause the problem and which dont have anything to do with. I hope i dont forget to write down something what i touched.
 
 
The air hose with the MAF was disconnected for cleaning.
The hose going from turbo to intercooler was disconnected for draining the oil inside.
The deverter valve was replaced.
The MAF' s are new.
Air Filters new.
Spark plugs new. 
Coils new.
Replacement of venturi tube.
The tube is sitting tight on the connection on the intake manifold close to firewall and under the intake hose close to throttle body.
Air hose passenger side which is going from turbo to MAF replaced. 
Found a vacuum hose close to the firewall which was disconnected. Put it  together again. Should be a hose which has something to do with the Turbo because my Cayenne S dont have this tube.
Changed the breather valve.
Checked the PCV membrane (can this effect bad running)
 
I spent a lot of time arround this problem. Not that difficult all this things but time consuming because i changed and swaped a  lot to find out whats going on.
 
What i can say: the time when i had out the MAFs for the new BOSCH the car was running very good. But just for some km. After the crap running came back.
What i can say too: before i changed the DV i never hear the turbos kicking in. Now i can hear the typical turbo whistle when kicking in.
What i can say : the boost on my gauge is running up to 0,8 very fast even when i push the pedal just a litte bit. To fast to high imo.
 
So thats the story. 
Finaly The codes which i experience are always the same. 
P0234 turbo overboost condition
P0441 EES incorrect purge flow
 
SORRY FOR THE LONG STORY. My last try before i will give it to porsche for finding the cause
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6 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

So guys, now i am on the point where i need your help please. My car is still running poor at accelaration. Specially at 2500 / 3000 rpm some kind of hesitation and stumbling. 

This never ending story started with a lot of oil on drivers side area down the air hose where the MAF is sitting. 
According to your advice: always go back to the work which was done and check i am ready to do this. Before i would like to ask, which components could cause the problem and which dont have anything to do with. I hope i dont forget to write down something what i touched.
 
 
The air hose with the MAF was disconnected for cleaning.
The hose going from turbo to intercooler was disconnected for draining the oil inside.
The deverter valve was replaced.
The MAF' s are new.
Air Filters new.
Spark plugs new. 
Coils new.
Replacement of venturi tube.
The tube is sitting tight on the connection on the intake manifold close to firewall and under the intake hose close to throttle body.
Air hose passenger side which is going from turbo to MAF replaced. 
Found a vacuum hose close to the firewall which was disconnected. Put it  together again. Should be a hose which has something to do with the Turbo because my Cayenne S dont have this tube.
Changed the breather valve.
Checked the PCV membrane (can this effect bad running)
 
I spent a lot of time arround this problem. Not that difficult all this things but time consuming because i changed and swaped a  lot to find out whats going on.
 
What i can say: the time when i had out the MAFs for the new BOSCH the car was running very good. But just for some km. After the crap running came back.
What i can say too: before i changed the DV i never hear the turbos kicking in. Now i can hear the typical turbo whistle when kicking in.
What i can say : the boost on my gauge is running up to 0,8 very fast even when i push the pedal just a litte bit. To fast to high imo.
 
So thats the story. 
Finaly The codes which i experience are always the same. 
P0234 turbo overboost condition
P0441 EES incorrect purge flow
 
SORRY FOR THE LONG STORY. My last try before i will give it to porsche for finding the cause

Thomas you must swap the purge valve from the S and clear that code for now. This may be the hesitation at 2500-3500rpm. For the overboost code firstly test your wastegate is opening on both turbos. 

See attached pictures, simple pull this pipe of f the n75 valve and pressurise to 10psi with air gun. You should not hear any air leaking and you should hear he wastegates opening and when you release the air pressure they will be heard shutting. They should work at the same time. 

If the either wastegate is stuck or any air leaking in the pipes you get p0234 overboost code. Do this before wasting money at Porsche. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

So today at least i was able to change the air hose which is going from the turbo to the part where the MAF is located. Little bit teight everything down there but in the end could do it.  Which surprise, the car runs better now. Couldnt feel the hesitation right now while driving.  I will report how it will be next days.

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