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can't figure out the overheating! help


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Ok so I changed the waterpump out. It was bad. Ran fine before the waterpump replacement. Pulled the thermostat tested it worked fine. Bought a gates airlift bled the coolant. Still overheats! Can't drive it but up the street before issues. Am I doing something wrong? Beating my head against a wall here. Thanksin advance for any help.

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On the assumption that the temperature reading that you're getting is correct, it would appear that coolant is not circulating at all.

 

Have you visually checked to ensure that the polyrib belt is correctly fitted and that the pump is actually rotating? 

 

Was there any damage to the vanes of the old pump? If you didn't flush the entire system, did you do a like-for-like coolant exchange or were different coolants mixed?

 

Other than opening the burp valve and leaving it open to see if that in any way clears out any airlock, I can't think what else to suggest.

 

I'm sure that you are carefully monitoring the temperature with the engine idling ... and that you are not tempted to actually drive the car anymore before the problem is resolved.

 

 

 

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Thanks for the response wizard. I have visually checked the belt and the pulley on the water pump. Seems all is correct. Yes the original water pump had damage to the plastic fins. A few of the ends were broken off.  I removed the thermostat and flushed it the best I could.  I replaced the coolant with new coolant so yes there were mixed coolants.  I actually just removed the thermostat completely and after about 10 mins or so of idling it started building pressure and getting hot. I guess I'm about to remove the water pump and inspect or replace it. Seems like there isn't much to it. Has me very frustrated. 

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How much of the plastic from the water pump impeller vanes did you recover from draining / flushing, and were the two coolants compatible?

 

If the new pump is rotating as it should, then it would appear that you have a blockage. A total system flushing (or several) may clear it, if that's what it is.

 

 

Edited by wizard
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Yes if the missing parts of the propeller are now clogging the cooling system, particularly in the small engine channels, this could be an issue. Also the famous not correctly refilling the coolant could be it. A vacuum device sold, is a good investment. It sucks all the hoses until they collapse. Then allows the coolant to go into the system with no spaces that prevent circulation. I have one in mine if I ever do the water pump. It's only a $100 clams. It works a lot like the power bleeder when flushing the brake fluid. Just so easy.

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Hey guys thanks for the response. As far as how much of the old impeller is floating around inside the system. I beleive very little if any. The fins that broke off were in pretty large chunks and I found the big chunks during removal.  I have a gates air lift system which I used tp fill it. Very nice system and easy to use. The air in the system was my first thought but I have rulled that out.  I need to pull the water pump back off and put it on the workbench. Just make sure it is good.  

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If you turn the heater on, do you get heat ? If not, then I doubt your circulating coolant. Pedro's Garage has something in his forums where he does a trick by elevating the rear of the car and getting the air bubble to come out. Might want to give that site a look before draining the system again.

Did you use a OEM pump ? Because it has to spin right ? Or did it break because it hit the engine right away.

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Funny you mention jacking the back of the car up. Actually read his article about that and gave it a try. To no avail.  I unfortunately had to head out of town for a few days and didn't have the chance to pull the water pump. I did not use a oem replacement it was an ebay water pump. I know I should have spent the money and probably will end up spending it anyway. Also funny you mention it hitting the engine. I noticed that the impellor sits very close to the engine block. I believe that it may have hit it right away. It must be something like that. And here is a stupid question and actually tried to figure it out but....how exactly do you turn on the heater? I have not a clue. Not that I need it for a bit here its hot! Thanks. Da888

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14 hours ago, florida miles said:

Funny you mention jacking the back of the car up. Actually read his article about that and gave it a try. To no avail.  I unfortunately had to head out of town for a few days and didn't have the chance to pull the water pump. I did not use a oem replacement it was an ebay water pump. I know I should have spent the money and probably will end up spending it anyway. Also funny you mention it hitting the engine. I noticed that the impellor sits very close to the engine block. I believe that it may have hit it right away. It must be something like that. And here is a stupid question and actually tried to figure it out but....how exactly do you turn on the heater? I have not a clue. Not that I need it for a bit here its hot! Thanks. Da888

On mine, you set the digital display to 80 degrees or a cold setting. Hit auto and it does it itself. Or choose manual and pick a temp, set up or down on the fan speed.

 I understand the OEM pump is a plastic propeller for an important reason. So if it does wear out and starts wiggling, the propeller wears rather than the engine case.

 I got mine from Sunset Porsche for around $250 plus gasket.

 

Your welcome for the video ttocs, pretty slick machine. After buying the brake power bleeder and seeing how easy it made the flushing process so easy. My brother told me about this device.

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Oh yeah I should know better and learn every day. Turns out the water pump was actually jammed into the engine block and never spun once. Just turned on the shaft. Guess it wasnt made for the correct tolerance. Nothing was damaged except my wallet and time. I did wonder why the stock pump had a plastic impellor. Thanks for that info and the heater info. I guess the only time I tried the heater was during this ordeal. So of course no heat. Time to open the wallet and get it fixed. Not much fun sitting in my shop.   The air lift system is a very nice tool to have. I used one years ago a tenant of mine fixed radiators and swore by it. I used it once and decided I needed one. About the only way to fill this car for sure. Thanks everyone for your help. I am a new owner and do all my own work so you will hear from me again I'm sure. 

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I've been doing my own work too.

Last year I bought a cool app for my cellphone called DashCommand that is a OB2 code reader. Only $10, plus another $30 for a wi-fi port sender. I had a thread on the particular codes I was getting. Ended up fixing it free by cleaning the MAF sensor and harness connection.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/16/2016 at 6:58 PM, florida miles said:

Oh yeah I should know better and learn every day. Turns out the water pump was actually jammed into the engine block and never spun once. Just turned on the shaft. Guess it wasnt made for the correct tolerance. Nothing was damaged except my wallet and time. I did wonder why the stock pump had a plastic impellor. Thanks for that info and the heater info. I guess the only time I tried the heater was during this ordeal. So of course no heat. Time to open the wallet and get it fixed. Not much fun sitting in my shop.   The air lift system is a very nice tool to have. I used one years ago a tenant of mine fixed radiators and swore by it. I used it once and decided I needed one. About the only way to fill this car for sure. Thanks everyone for your help. I am a new owner and do all my own work so you will hear from me again I'm sure. 

Any update from you florida miles ? did you replace the water pump ?

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