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By Mark Stubbs
Hi guys.Finnally got the Boxster on the road after an enforced year stood.It sounded a bit rattly when I started it up.I have done about 50 miles in it since all short journeys, and it still making the same noise.Not knowing much about these engines not sure if it's something more serious than tapped, alternator bearing???.Im not driving it and will get it recovered to an Indy for assessment, so any suggestions will be gratefully received. Hopefully other club members will chime in.
Late 2004 Boxster Base Tiptronic with 45,000 miles
I have racked up 15,000 miles over the last 3 years of ownership. The coolant was flushed about a year prior to purchase. I think it's time to flush the coolant. I plan to buy the Airlift tool - it's a time vs cost issue, time wins.
I know from searching that JFP has recommended to others to replace the water pump as preventative maintenance on a car this age. Fair enough. Porsche pump, clean the mating surfaces carefully and:
1. Use gasket sealant or no sealant?
2. Should I replace the coolant reservoir even though I cannot find anything wrong with it?
I'll replace the thermostat at the same time.
3. Should it be the 160 degree thermostat?
3a. I notice that the car runs between 190 - 210 degrees (using Scangauge) most of the time in warm weather, so will the 160 stat be a benefit?
4. Which hoses should be replaced?
5. Anything else?
Since the start of ownership I've done mostly preventative and general maintenance with very few actual failures of any kind. With that being said, I think mileage is beginning to expose some common failures cropping up like what happened yesterday - the turn signal stalk won't hold in-place, so now I need to replace it but at least getting the 4-stalk version will give me the OBC functions.
By Alan Huey
I recently had to replace the water pump on my 2001 Boxster. This all went fine, however, the red light to the right of the temperature gauge is blinking at 1 Hz. I've read this indicates low coolant level. I followed the factory procedure to bleed the system and it is filled to the max, but the light still blinks. Also, the gauge is flatlined to the left. I replaced the temperature sensor near the #4 cylinder head without improvement, and the wires "look" ok. All the fuses are good. Does anyone know the procedure to troubleshoot this wiring? Or the pin and socket numbers for the wiring diagram? The temperature gauge worked fine before the water pump blew up. I did recover most of the impeller, but a few small pieces are in there.
2005 C2S ~52k miles
For the record, for multiple months prior to these maintenance procedures, I noted an oil temperature of about 205 deg F, whether the ambient temperature was warm or cold. I could get the temp to go up by keeping the RPMs above 3000 for an extended time. Most of the time the needle just stayed pretty steady at 205.
The one day, saw leaking coolant from underneath the water pump. Decided to change the water pump and thermostat myself. I also changed some of the hoses that touch other about-to-be-changed-out parts. I changed the reservoir cap. The new thermostat was labelled as "71" and marked Motorad. I have no history of whether any prior coolant system work had been done by others.
When initially draining the coolant, I used the AirLift three additional times to pull fluid to the back end of the car to get a more empty system. Then I did the parts change out. Put everything back together. The system held its vacuum for at least five minutes. I then refilled with straight distilled water, intending to "flush" out the old, yellow-ish coolant since my new coolant was Audi G12 anti-gel "red". I took it for a 15 minute spin to mix up, and heat up, everything. I drained the diluted coolant three time with AirLifts in between.
It held vacuum again. Proceeded to add 3.3 gallons of straight G12 since that's what I calculated I needed (for appropriately 50/50 against a total capacity of 8.6 gallons). Finished/topped off with distilled water.
To try to get any potentially trapped air pockets out, I turned the heater on HI and fan on high. I'm now getting about 212-215 oil temperature and the needle seems to move (up and down) more often compared to the pre-change state.
I was really hoping for a reduction in oil temperature after the change-out because of the low temperature thermostat. What might explain why the "reduction" seems to have gone the other way?
Thanks for any insights you might provide.
PS: The bright side - there's no more leaking coolant. [Although I didn't hear much noise from the old water pump - when I had it on the bench I could tell the bearing was shot.]
Looking for some help here. I developed a pretty bad coolant leak about a month ago, i was losing about 1 liter per week. When I got under the car i saw the dripping coming from the tip of the waterpump, and surrounding areas. Since the car had gone about 60k since it was last replaced I bought that and replaced it thinking that would be it. However, after assembling everything back together.... The leak seems to be coming out of whatever is next to it. Attached are a few pictures, any help as to what this is; or how to troubleshoot would be great!