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I have one key fob that works and one key fob that doesn’t. At least one does. No transmit light on the other with a new battery. Switches feel like they are working. Is there a reset procedure?
Neither key will work manually in the drivers door lock. Is the door lock electronic or should I feel a mechanical linkage movement?
Nervous with only one key fob that’s the only way to unlock the car.
By Scott Clinton
I have a 2002 Porsche 996 Cabrio and earlier this year the immobolizer under the seat got wet. I purchased a used immobilizer, key for and ECU behind the rear seat. All of the parts came from the some year model etc. I put the parts in myself and everything worked great. Now i need a new key fob or atleast I think i do. The remote work sometimes and most of the time is doesn't. When its not working I cant lock or unlock the car with the remote and the front trunk will not open with the fob or the switch inside the car. When the fob works everthing works as it should in the car. Do you think this is a key fob issue or something else? Can i even get a key head programmed since these part are from a donor car? I do have the vin of the donor car.
2002 Carrera 4S. I did a search and didn't see these exact symptoms simultaneously.
See attached picture. I was driving at 5k RPM in 3rd when the power of the car was suddenly reduced (by the computer I believe) and the console beeped displaying the following 4 checks: 1. Brake distribution 2. PSM failure 3. ABS failure 4. Battery -- also, as you can see in the pic, the battery voltage meter is maxing out. When I disengage the clutch from the engine the voltage drops some (and the brake/PSM/ABS messages go away and are temporarily ok) but is still running significantly higher than what I'm used to seeing. Could this high voltage be damaging to the electronics system? Presumably there's something going on with the voltage regulator. Does the ABS/PSM turn off automatically for saftey when there are voltage spikes?
My battery is an Interstate and is ~ 1yr old. This seems to me like the alternator (possibly the voltage regulator). I realize it would be better if I had a Durametric to hook it up to and get the exact error codes off of. That may need to be done to properly diagnose what's going on here.
Thanks in advance for any help/input.
Have an 05 987 and I’m trying to replace the old broken fob clamshell with I new heavier one. Got it all figured out, but I’m having trouble extracting the transponder from the old fob. Don’t want to break it trying to get it out. Is it glued in? Suggestions welcomed!
By Philip Adler
Since I bought my Boxster the key-fob never worked, so my usual practice
is to put my key into the cylinder and turn it to unlock.
So this week, I did the procedure I've done hundreds of times, when after opening,
the resistance I've always felt while turning the lock disappeared! I could now
turn the key left and right, a full 180 degrees without any resistance. No movement
in the door latch.
And yet, when I roll the car down the driveway, the door locks do engage and so does the
latch. Something mechanical must have slipped off the cylinder assembly, and I know I'll
have to take the door apart to find out,
I'm wondering if anyone has had the same situation and what they've done to fix it.