Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
By Scott Clinton
I have a 2002 Porsche 996 Cabrio and earlier this year the immobolizer under the seat got wet. I purchased a used immobilizer, key for and ECU behind the rear seat. All of the parts came from the some year model etc. I put the parts in myself and everything worked great. Now i need a new key fob or atleast I think i do. The remote work sometimes and most of the time is doesn't. When its not working I cant lock or unlock the car with the remote and the front trunk will not open with the fob or the switch inside the car. When the fob works everthing works as it should in the car. Do you think this is a key fob issue or something else? Can i even get a key head programmed since these part are from a donor car? I do have the vin of the donor car.
2002 Carrera 4S. I did a search and didn't see these exact symptoms simultaneously.
See attached picture. I was driving at 5k RPM in 3rd when the power of the car was suddenly reduced (by the computer I believe) and the console beeped displaying the following 4 checks: 1. Brake distribution 2. PSM failure 3. ABS failure 4. Battery -- also, as you can see in the pic, the battery voltage meter is maxing out. When I disengage the clutch from the engine the voltage drops some (and the brake/ PSM/ ABS messages go away and are temporarily ok) but is still running significantly higher than what I'm used to seeing. Could this high voltage be damaging to the electronics system? Presumably there's something going on with the voltage regulator. Does the ABS/ PSM turn off automatically for saftey when there are voltage spikes?
My battery is an Interstate and is ~ 1yr old. This seems to me like the alternator (possibly the voltage regulator). I realize it would be better if I had a Durametric to hook it up to and get the exact error codes off of. That may need to be done to properly diagnose what's going on here.
Thanks in advance for any help/input.
Have an 05 987 and I’m trying to replace the old broken fob clamshell with I new heavier one. Got it all figured out, but I’m having trouble extracting the transponder from the old fob. Don’t want to break it trying to get it out. Is it glued in? Suggestions welcomed!
By Philip Adler
Since I bought my Boxster the key-fob never worked, so my usual practice
is to put my key into the cylinder and turn it to unlock.
So this week, I did the procedure I've done hundreds of times, when after opening,
the resistance I've always felt while turning the lock disappeared! I could now
turn the key left and right, a full 180 degrees without any resistance. No movement
in the door latch.
And yet, when I roll the car down the driveway, the door locks do engage and so does the
latch. Something mechanical must have slipped off the cylinder assembly, and I know I'll
have to take the door apart to find out,
I'm wondering if anyone has had the same situation and what they've done to fix it.
I have a tough question for any advanced Renntech users who have either stripped a 997 back to minimum wiring for racing, or fixed key issues
Can anyone help with my alarm issues.
Im building a 997 Track car- using a salvage chassis and the remaining parts from a rolled and written off cabriolet. Im think the key worked to unlock to car before i pulled it apart, but cant be certain as the engine was already out so there were limit functions to activate then.
Since moving the dashboard and whole wiring loom into race chassis, I can unlock the doors (yes, its the correct key, ive moved the doors over too), and the dashboard lights up to tell me the current odometer values. However the whole time from when the battery is connected, the alarm siren is going off (currently a clamp muffles that noise to save the neighbors). I can put the key in the barrel, rotate, and then still remove it (the Barrel lock appears to electrically be live, as it releases the key).
My guess if that the key has lost its coding for the alarm system, but I've tried following these instructions, https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...working-2.html,
with all combinations of button holding, pushing the hazard light switch, foot on brake, and key in/out barrel .... without any success in recoding the key.
Its worth noting the windows dont go through the usual drop down upon lifting the door latch sequence, im assuming this is due to the alarm running.
- my options seem to be getting the local agent to reprogram the key
- are there any other steps i should try to revive the key. I do only have 1 for the wrecked chassis's system
- a final last though is am i missing some switch that needs bridging from the cabriolet circuits to tell if the roof is down/up