Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
  • ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Niklas 71
      Car: Cayenne turbo 2004, 250 000 km
      The problems have been cascading over the summer, starting with a trashed rubber bushing on the cardan shaft support bearing. Before I got home and could fix that (thanks to a great description found in this forum!), the PSM and ABS lights went on. I guessed it was caused by the occasional knocking and wobbling of the cardan shaft.
      After fixing the support bearing, the lights stayed on, so I bought an iCarSoft POR II to read fault codes. For some reason, it couldn’t pull codes from the PSM, but there was a fault code in the gearbox controller, about a lack of speed signal from the rear left hand wheel. 
      I gladly bought a new ABS sensor and replaced it, with no luck. I could remove that fault code but the lights returned and I still couldn’t pull codes from the PSM.
      Next, I lifted the floor mats and found a lot of water on the passenger side from a blocked sunroof drain. Much of the wiring was corroded, so I carefully replaced it wire by wire. At the same time, I put in a new battery since the old one was really weak. The car started and ran fine, but the PSM and ABS lights kept coming back.
       
      Next, I wanted to inspect the PSM, so I lifted the plastic cover beneath the wind shield and disconnected the DME in order to get down to the PSM.
      The PSM connector looked fine without any traces of corrosion. The same was true for both DME connectors. I just brushed off some dust and put everything back together.
       
      Here’s where my biggest problem occurred: now my car won’t crank the engine at all. When I turn the key, the instrument screen says that “daylight running lights are not active” or something similar. The cooling fans revv up to max but nothing more happens.
       
      i have tried disconnecting the battery for an hour and then reconnecting again without any different behavior. 
       
      Any ideas on how I can bring my car back to life again?
       
      Regards,
      Niklas in Sweden
    • By royp4
      Hi all,
      I have noticed that after my last service at the dealer the engine runs about 8 degrees warmer (about 220f) and the rear fan runs for extended periods after I shut the engine off. The oil pressure also seems to be lower than it was before the service, which included oil change, coolant flush, and coolant replacement. Any ideas on why this might be happening would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
    • By loganmarriott
      Hello
      I have a tough question for any advanced Renntech users who have either stripped a 997 back to minimum wiring for racing, or fixed key issues
      Can anyone help with my alarm issues.
      Im building a 997 Track car- using a salvage chassis and the remaining parts from a rolled and written off cabriolet. Im think the key worked to unlock to car before i pulled it apart, but cant be certain as the engine was already out so there were limit functions to activate then.

      Since moving the dashboard and whole wiring loom into race chassis, I can unlock the doors (yes, its the correct key, ive moved the doors over too), and the dashboard lights up to tell me the current odometer values. However the whole time from when the battery is connected, the alarm siren is going off (currently a clamp muffles that noise to save the neighbors). I can put the key in the barrel, rotate, and then still remove it (the Barrel lock appears to electrically be live, as it releases the key).

      My guess if that the key has lost its coding for the alarm system, but I've tried following these instructions, https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...working-2.html,
      with all combinations of button holding, pushing the hazard light switch, foot on brake, and key in/out barrel .... without any success in recoding the key.
      Its worth noting the windows dont go through the usual drop down upon lifting the door latch sequence, im assuming this is due to the alarm running.

      Any suggestions.
      - my options seem to be getting the local agent to reprogram the key
      - are there any other steps i should try to revive the key. I do only have 1 for the wrecked chassis's system

      - a final last though is am i missing some switch that needs bridging from the cabriolet circuits to tell if the roof is down/up

      Regards
      Logan Marriott


    • By Jacko007
      Hoping to purchase this car.. They ran a DME and this shows only 19 Over Revs in Range 1  with none across the other ranges.. there are a "high"? number of misfires?  Is this a concern or perhaps normal and maybe just require plugs / coil packs?  My 1st Porsche.. I hope...


    • By Loscano
      I purchased a 1999 Porsche Boxster 986 about a year ago and I'm having a few problems with the electrical accessories.  The top worked fine when I bought it, but now it won't work sometimes. The radio also turns on, then immediately off at startup, and it won' turn back on until a few minutes later either by itself, when I use turn signals, power windows, brake, or even just by itself. After the car is "warmed up", then it will stay on. Other things won't work right or not at all, such as the alarms for, ignition, door open, light switches, etc. The fuses are all fine, and I know the battery had been replaced right before I purchased it. I haven't checked the relay for the top, but I am about to do that now. I feel like there could be a single problem creating all these issues. Any help would be greatly helpful and appreciated! 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.